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front brake discs and pads

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just had clutch done now for front pads. the discs where brand new with new pads the discs have a slight bit of wear on them should  change the discs and pads or just pads ?

just not sure abought putting new pads on old discs



Personally I always fit both together to my own car.

Even if the disc looks fine from the front, it's usually not so good inside.  If they are still decent though, no scoring, pitting, warping or a big lip around the edge you can just fit new pads to keep costs down.

Examine them visually for excessive corrosion.  If that looks good, then put a micrometer on them and gauge the thickness.  If they're 1mm or more above minimum thickness and not scored or corroded then they're liable to last for another set of pads.  The slightest doubt, change 'em.

I always fit new discs myself.  My pretty little tooshie is much more precious to me than a few quid, so I never skimp in the slightest on brakes or tyres.

  • Author

i was thinking of doing both so both it is. cheers guys

I'd stick a DTI on too and check how warped they are. Any more than 5-6 thou of run-out (0.15mm) then I'd replace the discs. Otherwise I wouldn't bother, but it's a very much debated subject on the internet. 

Also as above check them with a micrometer (don't use verniers as they hit the lip on the edge so don't give a true reading) and make sure they're not super rusty.

I've seen people sand/file the edge of the discs before using them again to remove that lip, which can stop new pads from catching on there and causing uneven break wear.

What happens if you don't change the discs?       Best not to follow my example!

Before my Focus the wife and I ran a Mk 2 Mondeo daily. We had it from new and scrapped it at 250,000 miles.

I kept changing the pads only, not even checking disc thickness until it failed the MOT on the front discs. It was braking fine but the condition of the disc surface attracted the attention of the tester.

When I got home and removed the disc it was obvious what was wrong. The surface was wavey having been that thin that it sunk into the disc ventilating grooves.

A new set of bits, some heavy braking to bed things in and it passed on retest.

ScaniaPBman.

 

 

I've seen MK2 Mondeo brake discs that worn that they cracked and bits of disc broke off

And other MK2 with discs that corroded that they stick to hub flange and very large hammer and breaking up of disc was required to get off. 

4 minutes ago, iantt said:

I've seen MK2 Mondeo brake discs that worn that they cracked and bits of disc broke off

And other MK2 with discs that corroded that they stick to hub flange and very large hammer and breaking up of disc was required to get off. 

hammer?

1200px-Sledgehammers-1.jpg

stef, have you got post notifications set to a certain key word?? 

you and your toffee hammers

2 minutes ago, iantt said:

stef, have you got post notifications set to a certain key word?? 

It's like b o o b s (swear filter!!)  mate, I can't help the fact they are eye catching lol.

but no i don't, I have my screen set on latest posts so I can see what's going through. I have got a serious hitting stick fetish though :lol: 

theres been a few *****(forum members) in here recently also. lol

***** swear filter

I'm needing a new hammer Ian, perhaps I could do a tutorial on something :lol: dv6 air filter change or something :angry: 16lb lump of steel should probably do it.

ive got my front bumper to replace , so i could do a tutorial with a new hammer also. 

i know we are going off topic, but one last post. bet you got one of these in your garden. 

maxresdefault.jpg

:lol::lol: 

I used to but for some reason the council told me to remove it.

  • Author
On 23/02/2018 at 6:36 PM, ScaniaPBman said:

What happens if you don't change the discs?       Best not to follow my example!

Before my Focus the wife and I ran a Mk 2 Mondeo daily. We had it from new and scrapped it at 250,000 miles.

I kept changing the pads only, not even checking disc thickness until it failed the MOT on the front discs. It was braking fine but the condition of the disc surface attracted the attention of the tester.

When I got home and removed the disc it was obvious what was wrong. The surface was wavey having been that thin that it sunk into the disc ventilating grooves.

A new set of bits, some heavy braking to bed things in and it passed on retest.

ScaniaPBman.

 

 

id imagine you could use them as baco foil they got so thin lol

Hammer?  Pah!  I just hold up a picture of Chuck Norris staring and the parts simply fall off.

It took me a moment to realise what this actually was.

Screenshot_20180225-100929.thumb.png.013a3b619746fafc9f1150b588431841.png

  • Author
2 hours ago, Luke4efc said:

It took me a moment to realise what this actually was.

Screenshot_20180225-100929.thumb.png.013a3b619746fafc9f1150b588431841.png

im definitely changing the discs wow

20 minutes ago, mrmetallica said:

im definitely changing the discs wow

They've obviously never been thickness checked and it's worn straight though. Checking yours with a micrometer and comparing it to the minimum thickness required you might not need to.

  • Author

do they do drilled and groved discs for a mk2 fl 09 do you know ? seen some but say not compatible

Drilled ones crack between the holes and grooved ones wear out pads quicker and cause more dust.  Best to stick to normal ones on a road car. :smile: 

  • Author
4 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Drilled ones crack between the holes and grooved ones wear out pads quicker and cause more dust.  Best to stick to normal ones on a road car. :smile: 

thanks for the heads up normal it is :smile:

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