Hi there.. l had been to look at 6 pumas before settling on my puma st line 155 and three had some of the chrome missing from the gear knob.. l asked one dealer if he could replace the knob but on checking he found out that it was only available as a complete gearstick/ shift system so l passed .. l thought l had checked the one l finally ended up with but after 8 months of ownership l can feel a scratchy bit on the edge of the knob where possibly the chrome is coming away.. possibly a dot of superglue will sort it.🙂

I've been happy with Autoglym and Meguiars over the years. Also used Zymol if you want to splash the cash!😀

I went for it taking into account positive comments from other members on here, and the high replacement cost of things like adaptive lights. I believe prices vary taking into account mileage at commencement, etc, but mine was £156 commencing April.

Yes the oil made no real improvement.

Personally I think the 1.25 sounds quite good as well especially when it needs to be revved (not so much the noise from the tappets though). I also liked the higher pitched noise of the much older 1.6, not sure if the modern ones still sound the same.

I’ve got the FHEV, which has the same 2.5L petrol engine as in the PHEV, but detuned a bit. Still about 185hp and it’s AWD. As said previously the MPG figure isn’t brilliant. In winter I only average about 38, but in the warmer months get about 46 and can get over 50 on a run. The beauty of the FHEV is that you don’t ever have to plug it in and although it can only do a few miles on electric alone, it continually charges up as you go, so that few miles gets replenished over and over thanks to regenerative braking. I had relatives up recently and took them for a little tour which was just over 100 miles and nearly 30 of that was electric miles. This was on country roads and if it was motorway miles the electric wouldn’t cut in as often.

Thank you for your reply and advice, its really helpful, I will check the output whilst the warning light is on!

Garage said they didn’t touch the wires or move anything to get a the clutch slave. Wires wasn’t like it before it went in for fuel problem. Garage seems like they don’t have a clue. All the codes started when the clutch and wiring was pulled apart. I agree the car wasn’t worth paying for one replacement parts after another. And it’ll breakdown again with the same codes. ECU no communication. In my opinion the wiring caused a surge with battery cable and cluster panel. My fella has the same car and he’s never had these problems or ever had to keep taking his car back for same repairs of starter motors and injectors.

Hi, My wife's 2016 ford Ecoboost 1.0 has started making what can be described as a drone, when reversing and when you start driving off turning the steering wheel, any ideas as to what this could be before taking it to a garage? Google has some data but thought best to ask in the forum for clarity as no doubt it's a common issue. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Cheers

IMO it was a poor decision to remove the spare wheel from the rear door. I recently bought a 2019 Ecosport which came with a spare wheel where the previous owner simply has the wheel in the boot - I took this out as IMO it's dangerous to have something this heavy in the boot. It's ridiculous so many modern cars come without a spare wheel.