18 replies to this topic

[Dan62]

a weak spark and a warm engine at high revs is causing the fuel to ignite.

Have you drilled out the security bolt and removed the ECU connector ?

[Stoney871]

In that case I'd suspect an inlet manifold or head gasket leak.
To test this out buy some damp start spray or carb cleaner and while the engine is idling spray it around the cylinder head and manifold area.
If you have an air leak the engine should pick up and run properly for a couple of seconds then drop again.
The area that produces the best pick up will be where the leak is centered.
At the best it would mean a gasket job, at worst it could be the symptoms of a warped head which would need skimming or replacing.

[scotchbee]

it may seem a daft idea but get the output on the alternator checked out. it may not be supplying the pump with the power to run all injectors at below 3000revs and may be the cause of the rough idle. there seems to be a lot of alternator probs in the car industry in general due to the increased electrical components and the foreign manufacture which is not as robust as the good old brit stuff. keep me posted on how you get on.

[Dave Pitts]

After checking no air leaks around manifold or injectors seats:

Going back to basics, using two old sparkplugs, lay the ht leads to the two cylinders on top of engine where they can earth, metal to metal, or use two jump leads to fasten to an earth point and hold each sparkplug in the end of the jump leads.
Start engine and see what the sparks are like or if they are even sparking.
If not then is electric fault.

If plugs sparking okay, refit leads and start engine and try squirting wd40 or similar under the air filter in air intake box and see if engine revs up when you do.
If no change then injectors are squirting ok.
If not then is fueling fault.
Injectors may be getting signal but not working?

Last item is not really likely but have you checked compressions in clys 2 and 3?