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#16 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 01:42 PM

There are relativley few bolts, which is nice, and the bumper is pretty much ready to fall off as it is! The biggest issue is the nigh on 10 years of dirt and rust and other bits that have built up, many cans of wd40 required i think! Another plus is it makes getting to the inlet manifold easier as theres a pipe down there thats split and needs replacing, so the more of the front that has to come off the better i suppose!



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#17 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 07:49 PM

Update time: front end off, both wings, bumper, plasticy piece that went in front of radaitor, both headlights, now for the radiator and the air conditioning radiator, anyone have any ideas about the pipework that connects to the a/c rad and how it may come off? The a/c rad is empty because of the hole punched in it!

#18 ppeter7

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 12:01 PM

yep its a 8 or 10 mill nut where the pipes join the rad. also when you come to regas it the connectors are on the silver canistar between inner and outer drivers wing so need to fit wing linner last.



#19 ppeter7

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 12:04 PM

just be careful theres 2 rubber o rings on the pipes so dont lose them or prize them off



#20 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 12:07 PM

Sweet, I was sure it wasnt too bad a job, saves the hassle of getting it to an a/c place! It also saves having to separate the radiator and the a/c rad!

#21 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 10:40 AM

Ok, first update for a while: Pcv pipe changed, inlet manifold back on, new radiator fitted, cooling system flushed, will fill and test the cooling system later, the only thing thats not gone to plan thus far is the throttle cable, the pedal doesn't return to the top of its travel, the throttle body does return to the idle position though, is there an adjustment I have to make? After that, if all goes well, its putting on new body pabels and making it resemble a mondeo again!

#22 ppeter7

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 04:29 PM

hi again glad its going well no sorry there not adjustable except for 2.5 v6.just check the cable at the pedal end is sitting in properly like the outer sleave and the cable is ok or not pinched at bulkhead area or cowling as the wings have been removed might have it trapped



#23 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 04:51 PM

Hello, cheers, thats one possibility eliminated at least! There's a yellow piece which looks like it may need to be attached to the pedal which isn't! The only thing my dad said was that when he tried to start the car to move it the engine revved straight up as the front of the car had pushed back between the throttle linkage and the pin that the linkage rests on at idle, I'll have a good poke around the throttle pedal area and see what i can see!

#24 ppeter7

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 05:12 PM

another thought could be the mounting plate the cable locates into the small bracket by throttle body if the front was pushed back a little aswell



#25 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 05:42 PM

Dad's just had a look at the pedal and says that how it was apparently, its certainly got more play than in my fieata! Running it up as I type, and all seems well, the engine returned to idle just fine, it hasnt overheated, and the A/C rad isnt punctured afterall! Now to get some body panels put on!

#26 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 03:45 PM

Ok, mechanical stuff sorted, new wings and bumper have arrived in primer, bonnet on the way, however, while fitting the wings ive managed to put fingerprints on one of them, whats the best way to clean a primed panel, without taking the primer off, can I just use water?

#27 Stoney871

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 04:25 PM

Use pre-paint and a lint free cloth.

#28 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 05 July 2013 - 04:37 PM

Sweet, thank you!!!

#29 PeterJeeves507

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Posted 30 August 2013 - 06:30 PM

Hi again, it's almost as though this mondeo enjoys the attention, as it was being driven off to be painted, the drivers side front spring decided to snap, most of the way to getting the spring/strut assembly off, however the bottom ball joint is proving to be difficult to separate, I've read that it can be done without removing the bottom subframe to get the bottom wishbone off, am I missing a trick as we've loosened off the bolt clamping everything together and tried using a jack to lift the wheel hub up so the bottom wishbone isn't at the bottom of it's travel?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated,

Peter

#30 stooge75

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Posted 30 August 2013 - 07:44 PM

Go to side ur not workin on & support subframe. Undo both bolts on that side 5 turns then let that side down off jack. Now goto side ur workin on support subframe with jack then remove both bolts completely. Let subframe down GENTLY so u dont burst cv joint. Undo track rod balljoint on side ur working on also sos not to damage steering rack.its SO easy doing it this way.
OR get a really big crowbar & lever balljoint down BUT you can damage bush at rear this way.The balljoint will more or less fall out doing it this way. Just done the 1st method myself to change said balljoont(WB),& its a piece a pi**
Oh & remember to take front plastic valance thing off 1st. Dont be afraid of ur subframe mate as your tracking wont be absolutely bang-on due to you removing strut anyway.

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