Any help/ advice is appreciated.

I have bought a fiesta zetec s 1.6 tdci 58 plate for my son today. Full mot etc. Seen twice , test driven once, all issues sorted. Picked it up today. Bought from a  relatively local dealer.

Home and two hours later it will not start. All lights on, just ugh on attempted ingnition. battery shows 12.85volts, but all I get is lots of clicking and the dash lights in overdrive flashing .

Any thoughts, anyone? 

Thank you in advance.

 

Have you tried both keys? Could be immobiliser related?

I'd say new battery req. Is it still the original battery. 

Battery sounds like it is goosed. Try giving it a good charge if you can and get a motor factors to do a drop test on it. 

Thank you Jonro 2009, The keys Are different ( another issue to sort ).

Thank you Mordey, Changed battery from his older fiesta, at my son's insistence, a 1.25 petrol. He has to learn, somehow. Better me who has experience than his mates who damage cars thinking that they know.

Thank you Nick_T. Your advice, as with mordey makes sense,so the battery is on trickle charge, It is a 1.6 tcdi, so no chance that the petrol engined battery would cut it. It did not. besides thanking you for responding, I'm posting this for information for the future.

I will update this tomorrow, after a 14 hour trickle charge @ 1 amp.

 

Hello chaps, Bit late replying, other issues ensued. Right battery charged properly and the car attempt to start but, it took three proper goes and eventually ran. A few days on running, some shortish runs (5-6 miles or so), then a long one to Liverpool from Mansfield. Mostly motorway. Then went to limp mode 4 miles from home, he got it home. Dash light - cog with exclamation mark in middle, orange, was on. I took off the air mass meter and shot it through with brake cleaner, I only had a little in the can, but some crap came out. He ran it and all was good- short run 1 mile. This pm it would not start, battery fine turning well, but not firing. I went out and held the starter on and she did eventually fire in a cloud of white smoke - unburnt diesel. Ran for a couple of minutes, shut off, same thing again. I am about to blast the mass meter again with a new can of brake cleaner. Does anyone have any other ideas. 

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Take it back to where you bought it from and go through the issues with the seller/dealer?

The identified a problem which was the EGR valve. He has had this replaced. No problem, for a while as outlined earlier. Anyway, codes from an expensive diagnostics unit suggests that the egr is stuck open. ho hum.I'll do it myself. Two hour return trip to dealer then time waiting for the garage, etc. 

Thanks for the help though.

 

Ok. Good luck.

Don't forget as you bought it from a dealer you are protected through the Consumer Rights Act 2015 where the product sold to you has to be fit for purpose.

https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

Found out mine had been decatted by the previous owner and wouldn't pass first M.O.T (Even though it passed emissions tests 3 times). Obviously wasn't too happy that I was sold a relatively new car with this problem, and came to an agreement with the dealer where they paid for the cat and I paid for service (£45). However as you've discovered the issue on the same day, I'd like to think you can get this resolved without any fuss from the dealer. 

I don't think it explains all the issues, but I know MAF Sensors directly after the air filter can play a role going into limp mode. 

Hope this helps.

The egr is brand new, electrical plug has been disconnected and barring the EML being on, with no other faults, it is running well. You are quite correct in saying that we should return to dealer but, 2 hour return journey, time spent wait for a possible slot at the garage that the dealer took it to, possibly having to return again, not really worth it for a two hour job. Don't get me wrong, anything more serious and it would have been straight back!! The dealer was fair, full MOT and service on pick up, the service was done, I checked the bits.

Thanks again for all the advice and help and just for looking at the posts. I will update when I have done this job, with any issues. It might help someone else.

When fitting a new egr,  the egr learnt values stored in the pcm needs resetting via diagnostic equipment.

THAT is something that I was NOT aware of. Thank you. Yesterday I bought a new obd2 unit from Europarts ( I'm a Brexit man) £20.00. Better buy than the first one. On my, recently bought mondeo mk4 titx, no codes. Checked my son's car and yes the codes came up for EGR issues, although I have not yet seen a P042E code before. I thought that it was all numerical with no alpha bits. My 'code book' shows only numerical units!. How does one decipher this code into something that we can de-code, correctly. I dare say some people may have gone wrong on this. Common? not sure, confusing, yes. Any answers, welcome. Thank you for reading even if you are unable to help.

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p042e

I know you are planning to do the work yourself so this is just a question out of curiosity more than anything. What is the warranty on the vehicle, what did the dealer supply the car with? I’m only asking because if you do your own repair it would probably void any warranty for future problems. 

3 Months. Thanks for the reminder.

 

If the pcm is going to need a reset, the dealer has to be the next step surely. You may now have difficulty getting them to perform any fixes under warranty, now having to pay more and still having the 2 hour round trip, time slot at dealer etc and possibly risking doing more damage.

 

Update.  Well back it went to the dealer ang the egr was changed. There has, apparently, been some problem with this brand of valve. All okay, got it back on Tuesday night. Running well. He went to Newark in it today, somebody not looking on a roundabout, hit the nearside front, destroying the suspension (hit the wheel at the top and pushed it in). Another job for the 'morrow. Thanks for all advice on the original issue.