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Shaking car when started first thing in the morning


gobba
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have just bought a focus 07 plate 1.8tdci. 80k miles on clock and runs great.

when starting it in the morning the car is quite shakey but once i drive off the car goes normal,, dont really want to mess with the car as its running good but any ideas of what it could be? 

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18 hours ago, gobba said:

have just bought a focus 07 plate 1.8tdci. 80k miles on clock and runs great.

when starting it in the morning the car is quite shakey but once i drive off the car goes normal,, dont really want to mess with the car as its running good but any ideas of what it could be? 

My 1.6tdci engine shakes on cold starts then settles down.  I put it down to age as it still hasn't fallen out yet.  If it was me I'd have a check of the engine mounts, see what condition they're in and that they're not leaking or anything.

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im not too worried about it at the moment i will wait to see what the colder weather brings in. it did cut out this morning while i had it running to clear the windows. but i started it back up and drove off no problem.

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thanks, i got a multi meter on the plugs,, 5kh ,, 32kh and the other 2 were dead.. £28 on trade for a new set. now onto the next problem

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they have been known to snap when you try to get them out. I don't know what the access to them is like on that car. If it was mine I would leave well alone unless it really became a problem to use like that. 

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On 10/2/2018 at 1:30 PM, Abbadon said:

sounds like glow plugs are duff possibly? I know being direct injection and common rail, it should really need them til its much colder, but that's my first instinct.

ok so glow plugs were bad,, replaced seemed ok for 2 days,, this morning though shaking again,, i have also noticed no glowplug light on instrument panel.

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I would put ohmeter on each one to check them again. and also check that when car is cold and you turn ignition on it does get 12volts at each connector. I assume there must be some kind of control box with a relay in that controls the power to the glowplugs as they use a fair bit of current. I have no idea where that might be situated.

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3 hours ago, stef123 said:

Find out why the light is flashing - read the codes and go from there. 

There is no flashing light. The light doesnt come on when turning the key. I also have no codes at all. 

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19 hours ago, gobba said:

There is no flashing light. The light doesnt come on when turning the key. I also have no codes at all. 

That's odd, I have the same engine and the light ALWAYS comes on when the electrics are initially turned on.  It could just be the bulb that's gone, my old Fiesta has 1 of the instrument panel illumination bulbs burn out, I could barely see the speedo at night which made things "interesting" 🙈

The Lynx engine is tough but not exactly what you'd call refined, it is a bit rattly which gives the engine/gearbox mounts a bit of a hard time.  Now your plugs have been replaced and the issue is still present I'd be tempted to check the mounts (there are 3 in total), my lower mount had failed totally when I replaced it earlier in the year (I had vibration issues but mainly under acceleration, replacing the lower mount resolved it).  The upper mount which is on the drivers side of the engine and below the intercooler pipe is known for wearing out, it's fluid filled to allow a little bit of extra compliance but the rubber eventually tends to go weak so it stops providing the necessary support and sometimes even splits, throwing the fluid all over the aux/serpentine belt.

image.thumb.png.51e91faeffc5f5ff32b24210d780ec4b.png

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On 10/12/2018 at 10:22 AM, 1979Damian said:

That's odd, I have the same engine and the light ALWAYS comes on when the electrics are initially turned on.  It could just be the bulb that's gone, my old Fiesta has 1 of the instrument panel illumination bulbs burn out, I could barely see the speedo at night which made things "interesting" 🙈

The Lynx engine is tough but not exactly what you'd call refined, it is a bit rattly which gives the engine/gearbox mounts a bit of a hard time.  Now your plugs have been replaced and the issue is still present I'd be tempted to check the mounts (there are 3 in total), my lower mount had failed totally when I replaced it earlier in the year (I had vibration issues but mainly under acceleration, replacing the lower mount resolved it).  The upper mount which is on the drivers side of the engine and below the intercooler pipe is known for wearing out, it's fluid filled to allow a little bit of extra compliance but the rubber eventually tends to go weak so it stops providing the necessary support and sometimes even splits, throwing the fluid all over the aux/serpentine belt.

image.thumb.png.51e91faeffc5f5ff32b24210d780ec4b.png

Thank you i will get the car on the ramp when i can get into the garage and check it out. I am thinking there is a bad one as when i touch the accelerator and release it i do get a big shudder from the engine. My uncle who i got the car off said this is just torque. 

 

Another problem from what the mrs has just said is that she was driving home just.. radio turned it self off car went juddery. She pulled over restarted car and it went back to normal. 

 

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On 10/13/2018 at 2:18 PM, gobba said:

Thank you i will get the car on the ramp when i can get into the garage and check it out. I am thinking there is a bad one as when i touch the accelerator and release it i do get a big shudder from the engine. My uncle who i got the car off said this is just torque. 

 

Another problem from what the mrs has just said is that she was driving home just.. radio turned it self off car went juddery. She pulled over restarted car and it went back to normal. 

Sooo i was blowing out some soot and this happend 

 

20181014_173230.jpg

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You really need the DTC's (Error codes) reading to at least give you a starting point.

Rather than paying a garage £50+ just to read the codes and clear them (once they've been noted down) if you have a laptop that runs on Windows you could purchase an ELM327 cable (me and plenty of others on here have purchased a good quality one from here) which besides giving you the ability to read/clear codes, it also allows you to monitor pretty much any sensor on the car if you so choose.

Oh and your uncle is talking total :shit: about the "rocking" sensation when you come off the throttle, if you can feel as a sort of inertia (like the engine is rocking back and forth) through the accelerator pedal as you come on or off the power, I'd say at least 1 of your mounts is gone.

As mentioned earlier in the thread I had the exact same issue and replacing the lower mount with a quality (Lemforder) one made it feel nice and tight again.  At the moment though I'd say the more pressing concern is getting to the bottom of what is causing the "Engine System Fault" message.

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8 hours ago, 1979Damian said:

You really need the DTC's (Error codes) reading to at least give you a starting point.

Rather than paying a garage £50+ just to read the codes and clear them (once they've been noted down) if you have a laptop that runs on Windows you could purchase an ELM327 cable (me and plenty of others on here have purchased a good quality one from here) which besides giving you the ability to read/clear codes, it also allows you to monitor pretty much any sensor on the car if you so choose.

Oh and your uncle is talking total :shit: about the "rocking" sensation when you come off the throttle, if you can feel as a sort of inertia (like the engine is rocking back and forth) through the accelerator pedal as you come on or off the power, I'd say at least 1 of your mounts is gone.

As mentioned earlier in the thread I had the exact same issue and replacing the lower mount with a quality (Lemforder) one made it feel nice and tight again.  At the moment though I'd say the more pressing concern is getting to the bottom of what is causing the "Engine System Fault" message.

Im going back into the garage today. I have my own diagnostics there (maxicheck pro) which shows no codes. Maybe one will be stored on the system now. I will also be using the snapon model too.. to confim. I will have a look at this thing you mention. Will update later. 

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13 hours ago, 1979Damian said:

You really need the DTC's (Error codes) reading to at least give you a starting point.

Rather than paying a garage £50+ just to read the codes and clear them (once they've been noted down) if you have a laptop that runs on Windows you could purchase an ELM327 cable (me and plenty of others on here have purchased a good quality one from here) which besides giving you the ability to read/clear codes, it also allows you to monitor pretty much any sensor on the car if you so choose.

Oh and your uncle is talking total :shit: about the "rocking" sensation when you come off the throttle, if you can feel as a sort of inertia (like the engine is rocking back and forth) through the accelerator pedal as you come on or off the power, I'd say at least 1 of your mounts is gone.

As mentioned earlier in the thread I had the exact same issue and replacing the lower mount with a quality (Lemforder) one made it feel nice and tight again.  At the moment though I'd say the more pressing concern is getting to the bottom of what is causing the "Engine System Fault" message.

 

20181015_122459.jpg

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Ah, that's a nice vague one.  From a little research it looks like common causes are:

* Clogged fuel filter (thankfully on this engine it's less than £10 for a genuine Bosch one)

* Leaking vacuum pipes (the short 90 degree angled hose on the drivers side is known for cracking on the underside, most on here have replaced it with a longer lasting silicone hose for less than £10 via fleabay)

* Sticking turbo vanes (maybe the previous owner drove it like an 85 year old on a Sunday morning drive in their Honda Jazz) if he engine is seldom on boost the vanes can start "stick" in position so even though they're not stuck solid it can make them sluggish enough to periodically trigger trigger an DTC when they are just that little bit too slow to react.

* Faulty turbo charger actuator/solenoid (I'm pretty confident the turbo on the MK2 Focus version of this engine is controlled electronically so wouldn't have a solenoid)

* Faulty turbo charger

* EGR valve not actuating (opening/closing) properly (the EGR valve itself is part of the inlet manifold so taking it off the engine to clean it thoroughly is not a small job)

Personally I'd check the boost/intercooler hoses and unless you know the fuel filter was done recently, replace it.  It's cheap, not a big job and modern(ish) diesels really don't like a grotty fuel filter.  Mine gets done about every 9 months or so and it always seems to run better after it's been done, incidentally it always amazes me how disgusting the filter looks after just 9 months.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I cleared the code and have had no problem since.  Im pretty sure its not the solution though. 

I purchased one of these plug and play things that was mentioned earlier. Now i watch the boost dials etc.

 

I have noticed the throttle gauge is doing nothing at all but ignored it. Today i have it plugged into my scenic and the throttle guage is working on that so i must investigate maybe accurator or the egr as you say.

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in an earlier post, you have the glow plug light on during dash test, but I think you say it never illuminates on start up.... well its got plenty cold enough now to need them.

on most BM and Merc the control relay blows its brains and need replacing when you do the plugs (most sellers do as a set)… I'd do the fuel filter too.  is there a fuse to the glow plugs if so is it working (before after relay changed)?

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20 hours ago, Botus said:

in an earlier post, you have the glow plug light on during dash test, but I think you say it never illuminates on start up.... well its got plenty cold enough now to need them.

on most BM and Merc the control relay blows its brains and need replacing when you do the plugs (most sellers do as a set)… I'd do the fuel filter too.  is there a fuse to the glow plugs if so is it working (before after relay changed)?

3 degrees this morning,, light illuminated.. apparently a temp sensor mean the glow plugs only activate when its cold enough 

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On 10/15/2018 at 8:02 PM, 1979Damian said:

Ah, that's a nice vague one.  From a little research it looks like common causes are:

* Clogged fuel filter (thankfully on this engine it's less than £10 for a genuine Bosch one)

* Leaking vacuum pipes (the short 90 degree angled hose on the drivers side is known for cracking on the underside, most on here have replaced it with a longer lasting silicone hose for less than £10 via fleabay)

* Sticking turbo vanes (maybe the previous owner drove it like an 85 year old on a Sunday morning drive in their Honda Jazz) if he engine is seldom on boost the vanes can start "stick" in position so even though they're not stuck solid it can make them sluggish enough to periodically trigger trigger an DTC when they are just that little bit too slow to react.

* Faulty turbo charger actuator/solenoid (I'm pretty confident the turbo on the MK2 Focus version of this engine is controlled electronically so wouldn't have a solenoid)

* Faulty turbo charger

* EGR valve not actuating (opening/closing) properly (the EGR valve itself is part of the inlet manifold so taking it off the engine to clean it thoroughly is not a small job)

Personally I'd check the boost/intercooler hoses and unless you know the fuel filter was done recently, replace it.  It's cheap, not a big job and modern(ish) diesels really don't like a grotty fuel filter.  Mine gets done about every 9 months or so and it always seems to run better after it's been done, incidentally it always amazes me how disgusting the filter looks after just 9 months.

will replace fuel filter,, i did have a split boost pipe,, the pipe from turbo to inter cooler, only on the elbow part though, i changed that (happened 1 week after i got the car)

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