Hi I have an ST3 65 plate took it in for a leeking valve on rear wheel been told need new wheel car only done 22k how long should the wheels last ?

A lot longer than that for sure.

Sent from my SM-G965F (S9+)

What's the grounds for needing a new wheel?

Don't know to much in shock to ask but will be  asking 

I can only think they are saying it has a crack around valve hole - does that ever happen?

or

it has pitted corrosion around the valve hole so that a new valve stem won't adequately seal - but for a car of that age I would not expect that.

I think it needs them to explain it to you whilst actually showing you the wheel.

I have never known one needing replacing for the corrosion but I can see that in theory it could happen after a long time /adverse conditions

 

I personally wouldn't have a crack repaired but if it is just corrosion then a decent wheel refurbisher would sort that out rather than buying a brand new wheel.

 

11 minutes ago, WES180 said:

I personally wouldn't have a crack repaired but if it is just corrosion then a decent wheel refurbisher would sort that out rather than buying a brand new wheel.

 

I'm not convinced it's corrosion related, 4 year old wheel? surely not. I've fitted tyres to some pretty corroded wheels, usually a whip round with the wire brush in the angle grinder and some bead sealer worst case. Usually wire wheel and the extra gooey bead lubricant for pitted wheels is enough. 

My old nasty, soft as poo Mondeo ST wheels are around 13 years old and still seal perfectly lol

I agree with stef, you can just clean it and get a good enough seal.  

Damaged alloys are repairable but depends on cost and extent of damage.  

Alloy wheels are a softer metal so unless a nail or something had just went straight thru. 

Similar vein, don't feel like cluttering the forum with another thread - had an advisory many years ago about a distorted bead rim on the drivers wheel, only now have I had another advisory for this same wheel, but now an advisory "wheel slightly distorted".

Haven't had a look under the car yet, will jack it up tomorrow and spin the wheel and have a look, but externally doesn't look particularly damaged or distorted, and no concerning vibration or handling problems. Have got a very slow air leak, will drop 4-6 psi over 2 weeks. Have got a serviceable spare if required.

Can a damaged alloy bead rim be repaired successfully? Have read elsewhere that buckled alloys probably shouldn't be repaired and trusted, but internet hearsay eh.

6 hours ago, Micro said:

Similar vein, don't feel like cluttering the forum with another thread - had an advisory many years ago about a distorted bead rim on the drivers wheel, only now have I had another advisory for this same wheel, but now an advisory "wheel slightly distorted".

Haven't had a look under the car yet, will jack it up tomorrow and spin the wheel and have a look, but externally doesn't look particularly damaged or distorted, and no concerning vibration or handling problems. Have got a very slow air leak, will drop 4-6 psi over 2 weeks. Have got a serviceable spare if required.

Can a damaged alloy bead rim be repaired successfully? Have read elsewhere that buckled alloys probably shouldn't be repaired and trusted, but internet hearsay eh.

Nothing wrong with repairing an alloy wheel if it’s done correctly. We have a company local to us who specialise in repairs and restoration - a busy place too!

They have some pretty nice kit for truing alloys too after they have been buckled/distorted. 

16 hours ago, stef123 said:

Nothing wrong with repairing an alloy wheel if it’s done correctly. We have a company local to us who specialise in repairs and restoration - a busy place too!

They have some pretty nice kit for truing alloys too after they have been buckled/distorted. 

Had a nosey under the car, there is a definite deformed bit on the very outer edge of where the bead sits. The wheel itself however looks quite true.

After spraying soapy wooder over the outside of the wheel it became very obvious where I think the air is leaking from - almost all the way around the edge of the wheel but only the external side. Will get to a tyre shop and have them give the alloy a bit of a clean and see if it will help - it's the only one out of the other 3 that's leaking.

This is about 5-10 minutes after spraying (gently!) to not foam the mixture up too much. The blobs aren't running around the rim, they're stuck fast and only got bigger and bigger in place.

my thoughts on reshaping bent alloy wheels. went it gets bent by a pothole it probably weakens the metal. If it is bent back then won't it weaken it even further?

So if it is bent but not bad enough to fail MOT then I would rather leave it how it is.

That's just my gut feeling on it. I am not in the motor trade and have no specialist knowledge of metals. So this is not expert advice

28 minutes ago, isetta said:

my thoughts on reshaping bent alloy wheels. went it gets bent by a pothole it probably weakens the metal. If it is bent back then won't it weaken it even further?

So if it is bent but not bad enough to fail MOT then I would rather leave it how it is.

That's just my gut feeling on it. I am not in the motor trade and have no specialist knowledge of metals. So this is not expert advice

I’ve had a few flat spots over the 8 years of owning my mondeo ST with the dog poo 18” alloys. Never the same alloy/spot I might add, I’ve never had any trouble with reshaping them.

I even fixed a Mini wheel in my press to get it back into shape after a pothole lol.

You are probably right though, if they go too far then I’d imagine it would fatigue the metal and weaken it. 

10 hours ago, Micro said:

Had a nosey under the car, there is a definite deformed bit on the very outer edge of where the bead sits. The wheel itself however looks quite true.

After spraying soapy wooder over the outside of the wheel it became very obvious where I think the air is leaking from - almost all the way around the edge of the wheel but only the external side. Will get to a tyre shop and have them give the alloy a bit of a clean and see if it will help - it's the only one out of the other 3 that's leaking.

This is about 5-10 minutes after spraying (gently!) to not foam the mixture up too much. The blobs aren't running around the rim, they're stuck fast and only got bigger and bigger in place.

That looks pretty standard of a rim leak caused by corrosion or the wheel hasn't been cleaned when the tyre was fitted.. A wire wheel to strip all the crap away and bead sealer if required. Or as I mentioned before, the extra gooey bead lubricant for pitted wheels works well.

When they remove tyres the garages rotate a bar around the wheel to break the seal, (scraping ‘ten bells out of the paint on the wheel). The paint escaping from the front of the wheel looks like that could be the case for the leak, or as Stef says, corrosion on the wheel itself or it hasn’t been cleaned. If it were mine I’d start by getting the tyre off and looking at the paint on the wheel, rubbing it down and repainting the rim/seating area. I once had similar on a Cavalier and found the paint on the sealing face peeled off in one go when I removed the tyre! 

Regarding the deformity on the inside of the wheel that can easily be fixed by someone who knows how to properly heat aluminium alloy and get it back into shape without introducing cracks into the material. Aluminium anneals when heated but work hardens again when you work it. ) Had one of my mk6 fiesta wheels done years ago without any more trouble) 

12 minutes ago, Russ said:

When they remove tyres the garages rotate a bar around the wheel to break the seal, (scraping ‘ten bells out of the paint on the wheel). The paint escaping from the front of the wheel looks like that could be the case for the leak, or as Stef says, corrosion on the wheel itself or it hasn’t been cleaned. If it were mine I’d start by getting the tyre off and looking at the paint on the wheel, rubbing it down and repainting the rim/seating area. I once had similar on a Cavalier and found the paint on the sealing face peeled off in one go when I removed the tyre! 

Regarding the deformity on the inside of the wheel that can easily be fixed by someone who knows how to properly heat aluminium alloy and get it back into shape without introducing cracks into the material. Aluminium anneals when heated but work hardens again when you work it. ) Had one of my mk6 fiesta wheels done years ago without any more trouble) 

If they are dragging the tyre lever over the surface of the wheel I'd have a boxing match with them 😮 There are fancy lever-less machines on the market now but even a typical tyre machine, the lever should only be to hook the tyre onto the demount head then pulled out so it doesn't come in contact with the finished surface. The demount head 'should' also have nylon protective covers fitted to it.

Stopped going for tyres to a garage along from me Stef as the tool they used was unprotected steel and they used to throw your alloy about! Now go to a guy in works brother in laws garage as we get a discount on tyres 👍🏼

27 minutes ago, Russ said:

Stopped going for tyres to a garage along from me Stef as the tool they used was unprotected steel and they used to throw your alloy about! Now go to a guy in works brother in laws garage as we get a discount on tyres 👍🏼

that's rough 😞