ThePowster

Eeeekk! Engine Management Light n stalling

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Afternoon Chaps 🙂

123k on the clock, car is mapped (was before I bought it @90k) K&N, run on Shell v-power the expensive stuff, everything has been great, until yesterday.

Cruising along 2nd gear slowly and pulled in, pulled away again and got engine management sign on dash and car stalled while doing maybe 20mph.

Pulled over, turned ignition off and on, nothing. Left it 5 mins, tried again, fired up and away I went, no problems, thought it was odd.

Today coming back from Meadowhall on motorway, second lane, did my lifesaver check, indicated to move into 3rd lane (of 4) and I came off the gas as I looked over my shoulder, car felt like it had put brake on, I just saw message on dash, Engine Malfunction, then it said acceleration required, I accelerated and it was ok again, what the heck is going on lol.

I did that check where ya press trip and turn ignition on and I got these 2 codes, least I think this is what I need to be quoting:

DTC #01 - D900

DTC #02 - E510

Anyone know what this means?

Supposed to be driving to see me mum in hospital later, cancer diagnosis 3 days ago, now car is messing me about, dunno if am safe to drive, not really got much choice.

Maybe I should get breakdown before I leave lol.

Flippin' cars mind you not had a problem in 25k with this until now, if it's done I'll just bin it and get a Honda C90.

Anyone experienced this before? and know what to do?

Thanks in advance.

Matt :)

 

 

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I don't think those codes from the computer mean anything (from what I've read from other people).  You'll need at least a cheap OBD2 scanner/reader to pick up any pending engine fault codes.

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Ah thanks for that 0shiny1, my bro has one of those OMBD reader things, I'll get it plugged in tomorrow, see what she says and report back.

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Evening fellas.

OK so my bro had some Forscan thing on his laptop and some OMBD or whatever they called reader, so I have just been out to the car and followed the instructions and I have this data.

Does this mean anything to anybody? Codes n abbreviations etc.

Is there anything here that jumps out at somebody that says HA! It's this or does this scan look normal / really bad?

I managed to save a text file which I'm hoping is as comprehensive as the images.

Code as follows:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

===PCM DTC P1630-22===
Code: P1630 - PCM internal Vref

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Below Minimum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

PCM internal Vref

===END PCM DTC P1630-22===

===PCM DTC U0155-21===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

===END PCM DTC U0155-21===

===PCM DTC P193B-24===
Code: P193B - Throttle/Pedal Signal

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - There is no change in the signal

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

APP Signal

APPS1 fault.

The CAN message from the cluster is missing.

The PCM receives APPS1 signal over the CAN network.

This DTC may be caused by :

CAN communication bus fault.

Faulty APPS circuit.

Faulty APP Sensor

Wiring / Connectors

Faulty or damaged PCM.

===END PCM DTC P193B-24===

===PCM DTC P1936-24===
Code: P1936 - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - There is no change in the signal

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Clutch Switch/Sensor Signal

===END PCM DTC P1936-24===

===PCM DTC P1935-24===
Code: P1935 - Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - There is no change in the signal

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

This DTC may be caused by :

Faulty Sensor

Wiring Harness Short to battery or Short to Ground

Damaged or contaminated connector

Faulty or damaged PCM.

===END PCM DTC P1935-24===

===PCM DTC P2584-21===
Code: P2584 - Fuel Additive Control Module MIL Request

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Fuel Additive Control Module MIL Request

===END PCM DTC P2584-21===

===PCM DTC P1622-21===
Code: P1622 - Immobilizer ID Does Not Match

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Immobilizer ID Does Not Match

===END PCM DTC P1622-21===

===FACM DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Fuel Additive Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

This DTC illuminates the MIL.

This code is set when a fault has been detected on the CAN bus.

This DTC may be caused by :

Open circuit

Short circuit

Damaged or contaminated connector

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

Make sure that DTCs are cleared from both FACM and PCM after repairs are completed.

===END FACM DTC U1900-20===

===FACM DTC B1317-20===
Code: B1317 - battery Voltage High

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Fuel Additive Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

battery Voltage High

This DTC may be caused by :

the supply voltage exceeding 16 volts.

Check the charging system performance.

Make sure that DTCs are cleared from both FACM and PCM after repairs are completed.

===END FACM DTC B1317-20===

===ABS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system

===END ABS DTC None===

===EPS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Electronic-Controlled Power Steering

===END EPS DTC None===

===IC DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN communication bus fault

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

Note:

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END IC DTC U1900-20===

===IC DTC U2510-20===
Code: U2510 - CAN communication bus fault

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Cluster

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

CAN communication bus fault

Possible causes :

The PCM must be configured for this vehicle before the system can be initialized

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

===END IC DTC U2510-20===

===RCM DTC U0155-20===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Restraint Control Module

===END RCM DTC U0155-20===

===ACM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Audio Control Module

===END ACM DTC None===

===GEM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Generic Electronic Module

===END GEM DTC None===


If anyone understand this and knows why my car is throwing up 'Engine Malfunction' and 'Acceleration Required' then stalling, please give me a heads up.

Thanks in advance :)

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I'm no mechanic Matt so please don't take anything I say as gospel.. 🤐

Sounds like what was happening to your car and with the P1630 and the P193B there could be something going on between the throttle pedal, TPS and ECM (they all have to be best buddy's for it all to work properly).  http://www.engineobd2codes.com/p1630.html

At least you got the codes, a good mechanic with superior electrical knowledge would no doubt trouble shoot/test components and find what it is.  I don't think its one of those problems where anyone can say "buy one of these and stick it on there that'll fix her" type of situations.  I think I remember seeing a video of someone testing a TPS, it looked dodgy and I think he said you can short out the ECM if you get it wrong... so on that note I'd advise a good automotive electrical technician take a look at it. 

 

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Thanks for the info and link there Gavin, really appreciate it! :)

I know the ECU was chipped before I bought it and I run her on Shell v power which makes a big difference, that and the K&N whistling under the bonnet, I was wondering if any of that lot could be causing it.

Scared to drive it now, there was no hard shoulder on motorway when it went all funny. Strangely when I nail it then it seems to behave lol.

It's only happened twice but I can't do with a headache so I may just scrap it and buy a bike, crazy when it could be a cheap fix but it gives me headache :( Just need simplicity in life... I know it will be process of elimination but that could cost more than the cars worth by time I diagnosed it and the cambelt needs replacing in 2k miles.

Had it for 4 years trouble free until other day, still I will have a good look at that link you posted mate and consider me options.

Thanks again :)

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No prob Matt, you never know it could be an easy fix.  I would get the TPS looked at first if it was me (but like I said I'm no mechanic).  I've had one vehicle (2003 diesel Transit connect) where the pedal went bad, it would basically stayed on tickover when the pedal was pressed, a quick on/off with the ignition would reset it until the next time it fluffed up, new pedal sorted it out for good.  So if the TPS tests OK next I'd want the pedal looked into because they can go bad as well.  I don't think your problem is related to the re-map or the K&N.  Could even be something as simple as an intermittent wiring fault at the pedal or the TPS, finding the fault could be a sod though..  Best of luck!

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5 hours ago, ThePowster said:

===PCM DTC P1630-22===
Code: P1630 - PCM internal Vref

===PCM DTC U0155-21===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

===PCM DTC P193B-24===
Code: P193B - Throttle/Pedal Signal

===PCM DTC P1936-24===
Code: P1936 - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction

===PCM DTC P1935-24===
Code: P1935 - Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

===PCM DTC P2584-21===
Code: P2584 - Fuel Additive Control Module MIL Request

===PCM DTC P1622-21===
Code: P1622 - Immobilizer ID Does Not Match

===FACM DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

===FACM DTC B1317-20===
Code: B1317 - battery Voltage High

===ABS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

===EPS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

===IC DTC U1900-20===
Code: U1900 - CAN communication bus fault

===IC DTC U2510-20===
Code: U2510 - CAN communication bus fault

===RCM DTC U0155-20===
Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

===ACM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

===GEM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

They are all electrical wiring faults, most probably a fault in the HS-CAN bus. There is no evidence there at all of any failures of individual parts, it is all interconnection faults. Bad comms and wrong voltages.

For example, the clutch switch and brake switch do not go into the PCM on the Focus, they go into the IC, and get to the PCM over the bus. There is a FACM MIL request (to put the light on) in the PCM, and no corresponding real error in the FACM, Just a bus error and odd battery voltage error. The throttle pedal has two outputs, one direct to the PCM, and one to the IC, which again goes over the bus to the PCM.

If your car was 2006, I would say it was definitely the IC that was the cause. But on 2008/9 cars, it seems to be more likely to be the wiring. Two connectors in front of the passenger door are particularly vulnerable to bad connections.

Having said that, I would check the battery and charging system as well, dodgy, high resistance batteries and alternators with a failed phase can create all sorts of odd or noisy voltages, which upsets most of the electronics. But my money (all 50p anyway!) is still on a HS-CAN bus fault.

A bit (well rather too much maybe) on the connectors & HS-CAN bus is here:

If you then jump to the end of that thread, it did seem to be one of those two connectors, though only after following more red herrings than in most of the Atlantic!

The IC test mode codes originally posted do have a meaning, they are the U1900 and U2510 codes that Forscan found in the IC. But it is a very limited test, only IC codes and maybe some OBD codes show up in it. Forscan is far more powerful.

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Thanks a lot Peter for that info mate, really appreciate it.

Going to have a long research into this today, I need to update my vocabulary, not even sure what a PCM or IC is lol once I understand all that hopefully it will be easier for me to follow.

Great stuff feel like maybe I can tackle this.

Thanks again.

Matt :)

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1 hour ago, ThePowster said:

not even sure what a PCM or IC is lol

PCM is Ford speak for the ECU, also now called ECM sometimes. It is in front of the left front wheel, behind the wheel arch liner, but it has a security bolt to make access hard!

IC is the Instrument Cluster, Dash or Clocks.

FACM is Fuel Additive Control Module, for the Eolys system for the DPF.

GEM or BCM or PJB are names for the passenger fuse box under the glove box in the Focus.

I advise clearing the codes, now they have been logged, and see what comes back and when. It might help to see how intermittent the problem is. It must be intermittent, a fully broken HS-CAN bus will prevent the car starting, with PATS flash code 16. You did have one immobiliser DTC, which is very much linked to CAN bus problems.

The HS CAN bus winds it way around the car, from IC, via FACM under the back seat, into the engine bay, to at least the ABS and steering, before finishing at the PCM. So there is plenty of scope for problems, sadly. I think I posted a more detailed list in that thread I linked to.

But my first port of call would be those two connectors by the passenger door. You might be lucky and that is all it is.

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Awesome Peter, thanks so much for that 🙂

OK so I went back out to the car, ran this software and cleared the codes, car started as normal.

What I will do now is buy some breakdown cover, leave it 24hrs so I'm proper covered and then take it for a drive, I'll also record the dash as I'm driving to see if there are any clues should it happen again. Thing is the other day, first time it happened was within first 2 minutes, then the next day I'd driven over 30 miles before it did it, but I'll take her for a spin, see if it does it again and also check to see if any new codes come up.

I'll report back when I know more, or if I break it lol 😀☺️

👍

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Morning guys.

OK my car went funny again this morning.

After clearing all the codes on the forscan thing, I was driving along 2 miles away from home, came towards a small roundabout, think I was braking, then... Bing bong bong bong, I looked at the dash and saw Engine Malfunction, all the lights in the dash came on, then I briefly saw something about brake and then it said acceleration required.

I managed to coast off the roundabout up a street and pulled in. The revs were off showing zero but the engine was still running lol but the throttle wasn't revving the engine.

So I flicked the accelerator pedal pressed it all way to floor and just let it flick back a few times and nothing, I did same thing with the brake pedal, pressed it down and quickly removed foot from pedal and let the pedal flick back and on the second time of doing that on the brake pedal the revs returned and I could rev the car again and drive it home lol.

I got back plugged it straight into the computer and this is the error codes from this morning's crazy spasm (images attached)

So how come pressing the brake pedal returned the revs from zero back up so that I could rev again? What could cause that?

I did check the brake fluid res under the bonnet and it looked ok to me, almost on the indicator line.

I'm stuck home until the powers that be, wizards and Gods can advise me what to do.

Thanks in advance to anyone who has any ideas based on this new information.

Fankooooooooo 🙂

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1 hour ago, ThePowster said:

The revs were off showing zero but the engine was still running lol but the throttle wasn't revving the engine.

So I flicked the accelerator pedal pressed it all way to floor and just let it flick back a few times and nothing, I did same thing with the brake pedal, pressed it down and quickly removed foot from pedal and let the pedal flick back and on the second time of doing that on the brake pedal the revs returned and I could rev the car again and drive it home lol.

I got back plugged it straight into the computer and this is the error codes from this morning's crazy spasm (images attached)

So how come pressing the brake pedal returned the revs from zero back up so that I could rev again? What could cause that?

I doubt if there is a direct link between brake pedal and the curing of the fault. It is an intermittent electrical bad contact, and these come and go as they please. It is possible that vibration or flexing the bodywork had a small effect, but it could be just that that is when it fixed itself.

The main codes are the same as before: throttle, brake and clutch sensors, that are transmitted from the IC to the PCM. Along with several communication U errors.

If you are not familiar with using multimeters to track down electrical wiring faults, then it can be a very steep learning curve. There are lots of potential pitfalls and catches, I still get caught myself all too often, despite over 40 years of experience!

If you can track down someone with experience of electrical circuits, then the circuit diagram is available on this site. It is 130+ pages of technical schematics, but it does contain a lot of information about what should be connected to what. I can find a link if wanted, and have posted lots of extracts from it. No deep electronics or software knowledge is needed, just a basic understanding of amps, volts and Ohms.

However, sometimes faults can be cured by simply disconnecting relevant connectors, inspecting for obvious faults, and spraying with a safe electrical cleaner like IPA (some use WD40, not 100% sure I recommend it, but it seems ok in most cases!), then re-connecting.

 

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Try checking the main earth points in engine bay and under dash (might be a bit further back under the trim by the drivers door) common problems this time of year corrosion on the points can cause issues with stalling and dash control issues.

 

Take apart, wire brush, grease and put back together or create a new grounding point somewhere else.

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Thanks so much Peter / Tekno, really appreciate the advice.

Peter if you have a link to the technical schematics that would be most useful. Also I will invest in a multimeter from amazon.

I understand this is going to be a process of elimination and hopefully this post will serve as a guide from newbie to pro should I be able to find what's happened and I can relay back the results to help anyone else in the future. That's whats good about these forums 🙂

Time for me to start to increase my vocabulary and understanding of all these abbreviations and make a start on the advice offered so far.

Cheers fellas, really appreciate it :)

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17 hours ago, ThePowster said:

Peter if you have a link to the technical schematics

https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42087

I can try to guide you through the process as best I can, if you want. There is a lot of jargon to get through.

Being so intermittent it could be difficult. It seems like the car works fine most of the time, then just occasionally has a major hissy fit.

Tapping and gently wiggling wires and connectors while it is idling might provoke it into a hissy fit, but I know that it often does not work like that. I have a really annoying unit (nothing to do with cars) that I made & sold 3 years ago, in my workshop now, that seemed to have a fault when it arrived. 4 weeks of searching have not made the fault re-appear. It has cost me a lot of time, yet I can't charge more than a trivial amount for it with no fault found and cured!

The earth wire suggestion is interesting, bad earths can disrupt CAN communications due to electrical noise, and upset electronic modules directly. I would have thought that it would not be so intermittent.as this fault is, but it is a possibility. Most of the main earths are on the side members in the engine bay (above & near the front wheels) or on the sills near the front doors.

Testing car wiring will also require an assortment of croc clips and similar, maybe some longer extension wires, and bits of stiff bare wire of varying diameters to poke into connectors. Paper clips can be used for this, sometimes.

 

 

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Thanks a lot for that Peter! 🙂

I took the car for a drive last night, a 20 min drive and I tried all sorts, hard on the brakes, slow up the road, hard throttle on and off slow, tried everything, could I make it happen again, nope lol yet day before 2 miles from home and it went haywire.

For me moving forward with this I think it's process of elimination, first I needed to understand the lingo, second I took all the info from this post and put it into a word document and lastly apply this knowledge and hopefully find a fix 🙂

For anybody else interested and a newbie like myself there maybe something interesting in here.

I think I will start by looking at the earths and fuses and if no joy with that, buy the multimeter, crocodile clips and so on and step at a time, and in mean time testing as I keep missing something on the dash some warning about brakes although my fluid is topped up. Also I bought breakdown cover lol.

Keep this thread updated with my findings 🙂

Ford Focus

2009 1.6 TDCi

 

Key:

PCM – Powertrain Control Module (or ECU or ECM)

FACM – Fuel Additive Control Module

ABS – Antilock Braking System

EPS – Electronic-Controlled Power Steering

IC – Instrument Cluster (or clocks)

RCM – Restraint Control Module

ACM – Audio Control Module

GEM – Generic Electronic Module (BMC or PJB passenger fuse box under the glovebox)

DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Code

APP – Accelerator Pedal Position

APPS1 – Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1

CAN – Control Area Network

MIL – Malfunction Indicator Lamp

 

Problem:

When driving, car flashes warnings on the dash.

 

·         Engine Malfunction

·         Brake (something)

·         Acceleration required

The car then loses its ability to rev despite the engine still running.

 

The problem is electrical.

 


DTU Codes (ELM327 v1.5):

PCM – Powertrain Control Module

DTCs in PCM: U0155-21, P193B-24, P1936-24, P1935-24, P2584-21

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCM – U0155-21

 

Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

 

Additional Fault Symptom:

 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCM – P193B-24

Code: P193B - Throttle/Pedal Signal

 

Additional Fault Symptom:

 - There is no change in the signal

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

APP Signal

 

APPS1 fault.

 

The CAN message from the cluster is missing.

 

The PCM receives APPS1 signal over the CAN network.

 

This DTC may be caused by :

 

CAN communication bus fault.

 

Faulty APPS circuit.

 

Faulty APP Sensor

 

Wiring / Connectors

 

Faulty or damaged PCM.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCM – P1936-24

Code: P1936 - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction

 

Additional Fault Symptom:

 - There is no change in the signal

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

Clutch Switch/Sensor Signal

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCM – P1935-24

Code: P1935 - Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

 

Additional Fault Symptom:

 - There is no change in the signal

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

 

This DTC may be caused by :

 

Faulty Sensor

 

Wiring Harness Short to battery or Short to Ground

 

Damaged or contaminated connector

 

Faulty or damaged PCM.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCM – P2584-21

Code: P2584 - Fuel Additive Control Module MIL Request

 

Additional Fault Symptom:

 - Signal is Above Maximum Threshold

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Powertrain Control Module

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

Fuel Additive Control Module MIL Request

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FACM – Fuel Additive Control Module

DTCs in FACM: U1900-20

Code: U1900 - CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Fuel Additive Control Module

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

 

This DTC illuminates the MIL.

 

This code is set when a fault has been detected on the CAN bus.

 

This DTC may be caused by :

 

Open circuit

 

Short circuit

 

Damaged or contaminated connector

 

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

 

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

 

Make sure that DTCs are cleared from both FACM and PCM after repairs are completed.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EPS – Electronic-Controlled Power Steering

DTC’s in EPS: U1900-20

Code: U1900 - Missing Message for Engine Speed

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Electronic-Controlled Power Steering

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

CAN Communication Bus Fault (missing messages)

 

Possible causes are:

 

Missing Message for Engine Speed

 

Engine RPM Data Invalid

 

Vehicle Speed Data Invalid

 

Check CAN Wiring/CAN Network is functioning.

 

Note:

 

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

 

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

IC – Instrument Cluster

DTCs in IC: U1900-20

Code: U1900 - CAN communication bus fault

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Instrument Cluster

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

 

CAN Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error

 

Note:

 

DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication.

 

Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle.

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RCM – Restraint Control Module

DTCs in RCM: U0155-20

Code: U0155 - Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module

 

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

 

Module: Restraint Control Module          

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Solution:

1)      Two connectors in the front of the passenger door

2)      Buy a multi-meter from amazon to test electrical connections

3)      Research cluster fault

4)      Research Throttle Position Switch / Throttle Position Sensor

5)      Two connectors in the front of the passenger door

6)      Check battery voltage

 

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As an alternative from memory there were a few of these that suffered with water ingress in the fuse box after washing and heavy rain might be worth a look just to be sure i had a customer come in with it a few years back lot of weird problems that were so intermittent but after running live data on a test drive i noticed a few this going wrong up hill then a few other things going wrong down hill always the same faults pulled the internal box out and found it wet dried it off cleaned it up with term cleaner replaced a few bits of loom and found where the water was coming from think it was a gromit and the engine bay cant quite remember where though.

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Cheers Tekno, it's defo on the to-do list. I drove car tonight, 15 miler and back, no problems. Whatever it is, it can't be much, finding it, now there is the challenge lol.

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Afternoon fellas. (VIDEO LINK BELOW)

OK I've taken a video to show you which hopefully shows you better than my waffle lol.

So this morning, I came to the car, key in ignition, turned it to position II just giving it a moment like I always do before I turn n hold to start the car, before I even turned it to crank the engine it came up, ding-dong, ding-dong, engine malfunction! I thought wtf, how can it malfunction, I haven't even started it yet lol.

Then I did a short drive in it to me mums and back, only a couple of miles each way. When I got back home and just as I parked up, engine malfunction light came on and I briefly saw a message about power steering. The revs dropped to zero but the engine was still running, the rest is as you see in the video.

There is a part in the middle of the second clip where it actually flashed up 2 messages and I had to pause the video, frame at a time and it said brake light fault, which is funny cos on my MOT I had a advisory for, oh wait that was indicator bulb going white instead of yellow, wonder if a bulb could cause all this?

This power steering malfunction is a new error code as is acceleration reduced and the brake light, first time today I've seen these and they can't all have failed at same time.

I tried blipping the throttle and brake to see if it would affect the warnings or bring power back but it did not.

https://youtu.be/rq6RouA6qhQ

After a while I turned the engine off, back on and revs were working again and all looked ok, but for how long.

I also got a yellow coloured symbol on the dash and then it went red, not sure what the colours signify?

How can I get engine malfunction warning when I haven't even begun to crank the engine yet?

How come the power steering menu vanished from the menu system, does this point to anything?

And lastly, anyone wanna buy a mint Focus haha. Just joking, I will be scrapping it at this rate and buying a good pair of walking shoes *sobs*.

I got breakdown cover the other day, greenflag, can I call them out to this? Thing is it will probably start when they get here.

I dunno if this new information helps identify the problem or not? 

If anyone can spot anything new to this conundrum from the above video / info please let me know, am all ears 🙂

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7 hours ago, ThePowster said:

How can I get engine malfunction warning when I haven't even begun to crank the engine yet?

There is a lot of activity on the CAN bus before the engine starts. The PATS authentication (immobiliser) process is done between the IC and the PCM. The IC reads the code from the key, both the PCM & IC must check the code and agree before the PCM will try to start the engine. Clutch and brake signals may well be transferred from IC to PCM also before starting.

I phrased that, then looked at the video. What did I see straight away, but the immobiliser LED flashing madly. Classic.

The steering fault light also comes on as a result of a broken CAN bus, I have had this too.

So every single problem remains completely consistent with an intermittent bad contact in the bus. It seems to be getting worse, which is a good thing in a way, it is easier to locate faults while they are actually present. Hitting a gremlin with a big stick is easier if you can see it. Though they still squirm away just as you go to get them sometimes, I have found through hard experience!

Your definition of CAN above sounds scary and technical. It is also almost entirely meaningless. Heaven knows why it got called Control Area Network. All buses involve control, area and network.

A more useful & friendly definition is that it is just a twisted pair of wires, running from one terminus to another terminus, with stopping off points along the way. A bit like a normal road bus system!

There is a termination resistor of 120 ohms in each terminus, making a resistance of 60 ohms when the bus is intact from end to end. This can help diagnosis.

There are two main buses on the Mk2/2A Focus, HS-CAN & MS-CAN.

HS-CAN goes from PCM to IC, via the underbonnet modules (plus the FACM & DLC inside the car). It is a Grey/Red & Blue/Red twisted pair. (Add to your jargon list: DLC = Diagnostic Link Connector, where you plug the ELM327, and Module = Electronic unit with a microprocessor powerful enough to handle a CAN bus connection.)

MS-CAN goes from IC to BCM, via in-cabin stuff like audio, RCM, doors, park aid. It is a Grey & Blue twisted pair.

There is little evidence here of MS-CAN problems, only the RCM is reporting an occasional error, which could just be a side effect.

The HS-CAN bus is schematically drawn on pages 25 & 26 of the overall schematic.

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Peter I can't thank you enough for taking the time to type that and explain it to me, I'm ever so grateful!

And the best bit is I now understand 90% of it lol.

Car yesterday was dead as a dodo, came to it this morning, key in ignition, no warning signs or bells, fired straight up.

I started by going through all the switches in the car, electric wing mirrors, lights, horn, hazards, now when I hit the rear demister as soon as I pressed it, bing bong bing bong engine malfunction, same problem, but eventually revs came back so I switched car off, back on again started it and I couldn't get it to replicate with the switches so that could have just been a chance thing.

I took her for a spin, felt like a new car.

I was just about ready to call the scrap man and it's like there's nothing wrong with it today but I can't drive it on the road because anywhere from 1 mile to 30 mile I'll lose everything again so despite it running today I am still without a motor.

All I need now Peter is for you to come and apply this knowledge for me and fix it haha, nah seriously your knowledge already is a super big help!

Oh i've not mentioned yet have I. I called green flag out last night, they subcontracted the job to another company, young lad turns up, no tools just an OBD reader similar to mine, said cant help you mate it could be anything and he was off! lol so I cancelled me Green flag policy, sod paying 80 quid for that, no help whatsoever.

Gonna give it another try this evening, what I may do is put another car on a credit card and use this as a project, strip it to bits, learn a lot about electrical testing and when I've found the issue and she's fixed n running, sell it because other than this electrical fault she drives super.

Thanks Peter ya a star, and everyone else for your knowledge :)

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Just checking back to see if you got anywhere with this problem.  It's like a foreign language to me!  Honestly my last remaining brain cell just melted....  Hope you eventually find this gremlin, sounds like a right PITA.  There's some good vids I just found which do explain some things, this one is not Ford and not the same as your faults but if you like getting your head around this CAN BUS stuff:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKnQI2IScPU  this bloke does a good job.  Another quick one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YWHrTTmWE8 notice they both use oscilloscopes. 😮

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