Evening everyone, 

This car I bought as spares/repair will not start but it's in great condition so I'd like to give it another chance if that's possible.

2007 1.6 TDCI Style

• Cluster displays 'Engine Systems Fault with a constant red light
• The car turns over but doesn't fire or run at all
• Various items removed in the engine bay by a mechanic who started to work on it (charge pipe, DPF clamp but nothing catastrophic 

What I have done/learned:

• The car has sat for a year so the batter was u/s - I've fitted a nice big 80Ah/800 CCA battery so I'm goof to have a play around
• I had a bluetooth reader so managed to use a generic IOS App to read the P242F code as 'pending' but validated and present. 
• The code cannot be cleared
• I have since bought a suitable cable and downloaded ForScan which adds that EML is OFF for this fault (can't validate as I cannot start the car!)
• There were a whole host of low power codes (dead battery) which I cleared and then the only fault being the P242F
• When I crank the engine and re-scan, U1900 pop us under the IC module.
• I've had the cluster out, inspected (looks OK) and resoldered the connector pins - problem still exists 
• I've verified I have fuel at the injectors, no other errors exist

Where do I go next?

• It seems I have a DPF ash blockage; I'm going to remove the DPF at the weekend and run some 'off car' cleaner through it to see if anything can be done there.
• I would assume the car would still start with this DPF error though - am I wrong in that assumption or could the DPF cause the Engine Systems Fault?
• Again assuming, the Engine Systems Fault is what's preventing the car starting; is the U1900 a deal breaker? Why does this error only occur when cranking?
• Are there any other joints on the cluster to check? I see a slight bit of corrosion on there but all else looks good (see pic)
• Is it wise to try another cluster to rule out a fault? Is this even possible (does it store the mileage in the cluster?)
• I'm thinking of checking the PCM plugs and as many earth points as I can next

Can anyone give me some pointers (or even better - just tel me the exact cause!)

Much appreciated 

U1900 can be ignored - its set everytime a component is unplugged and self resets after a few miles

the pins on the picture - they look worse than mine when my car went - i'd reflow the solder on them first

P242F is a DTC which is set when the DPF is blocked over 250% I believe, this is not recoverable and a new DPF will be required, this could be the cause of the vehicle not to start due to emissions reasons.

However if you're going to try and clear the DPF out yourself try to reset the DPF learned values and carry out a static regeneration (if your scanner allows you to do so). Hopefully this will then fully restore the DPF. Try then to clear the codes and start it.

Thanks guys, I’ll reflow the connectors today then.

I’m not against picking up a new DPF or indeed removing it and programming out, I just didn’t want to do that if there’s another serious fault in the electronics likely to be a deal breaker.

The FORScan seems to support the regen and learn values (I believe) but I’m not sure how to do this is it won’t start either.

Also, the codes being ‘pending’ suggest they only arose once before the car failed to run again. That seems odd to me. The previous owner did however but the car (and run it) with the EML lit so it may have gone on for some time.

Tips/guide on resetting the learned values anyone? I’ll obviously have a search too.

I'm hoping that by resetting the learned values for the DPF it will allow the vehicle to start as it shouldn't be reading over blocked, then by running the static regen it should clear it out and run okay. You'll only need the ignition on to reset these values. 

P242F doesn't usually cause a non-start but it's odd there are no other fault codes on Forscan.

Have you or the previous mechanic touched the fuel filter?  These have no in-tank pump so need to be manually primed after the fuel system has been opened.  Plus the fuel filters are well known to block earlier than their recommended interval.  Should trigger a low fuel pressure fault code though.

Finally, I made a YouTube video on resetting the DPF learned values about 6 years ago so you're welcome to search for that, but it's all pretty intuitive really, just 'Service Procedures' and follow the instructions.  If the blockage is ash rather than soot, you'll never get rid of that by regen, you can try backwashing them but the bent ends on the 1.6TDCi DPF make that pretty much impossible.  Aftermarket DPFs can be bought for under £200 now.  

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

P242F doesn't usually cause a non-start but it's odd there are no other fault codes on Forscan.

Have you or the previous mechanic touched the fuel filter?  These have no in-tank pump so need to be manually primed after the fuel system has been opened.  Plus the fuel filters are well known to block earlier than their recommended interval.  Should trigger a low fuel pressure fault code though.

Finally, I made a YouTube video on resetting the DPF learned values about 6 years ago so you're welcome to search for that, but it's all pretty intuitive really, just 'Service Procedures' and follow the instructions.  If the blockage is ash rather than soot, you'll never get rid of that by regen, you can try backwashing them but the bent ends on the 1.6TDCi DPF make that pretty much impossible.  Aftermarket DPFs can be bought for under £200 now.  

I have no idea what the previous mechanic did (apparently he suffered a heart attack and so is off the grid now - he's OK though). That was my thinking around the fuel, so I checked at the injectors and there's no air coming through; it doesn't even try to fire so I wondered about glow plugs. Having read horror stories about snapping them I don't plan to tough them any time soon!

I found your video, thanks. I will give that a go. Hopefully get the DPF off at the weekend and soak/backflush with the Wynn's Off Car DPF Cleaner but I don't suppose it'll fix it; I just want to improve things so I can test start the car and go from there. Then I'm happy to spend more cash. I saw the shape of the DPF pipe, very annoying, but I have a gearbox oil syringe and tube that will allow me to fill the filter. I also have a borescope so will take a look inside!

5 minutes ago, MarkG_M5Comp said:

I have no idea what the previous mechanic did (apparently he suffered a heart attack and so is off the grid now - he's OK though). That was my thinking around the fuel, so I checked at the injectors and there's no air coming through; it doesn't even try to fire so I wondered about glow plugs. Having read horror stories about snapping them I don't plan to tough them any time soon!

I found your video, thanks. I will give that a go. Hopefully get the DPF off at the weekend and soak/backflush with the Wynn's Off Car DPF Cleaner but I don't suppose it'll fix it; I just want to improve things so I can test start the car and go from there. Then I'm happy to spend more cash. I saw the shape of the DPF pipe, very annoying, but I have a gearbox oil syringe and tube that will allow me to fill the filter. I also have a borescope so will take a look inside!

Faulty glow plugs throw a fault code, 'engine malfunction' message and limp mode, but don't cause a non-start. 

When mine failed (at just 60k!) I had to refit all the access panels and drive across town with them unplugged and in limp mode to buy a specific plug socket with UJ as I couldn't reach the awkward one lol.   Didn't snap any though fortunately.

If your bore scope is thin enough, poke it through the temp sensor hole.  The cat core is at the top of the DPF can on these so you can't see the DPF core from the top hole.

It might be worth checking the crank sensor if it's turning over quickly but not attempting to fire.  It's just behind the crank pulley on these.

So some progress....

Reflowed the cluster and I’ve run the ‘relearn’ procedure for the DPF.

I had to disconnect the MAF and differential valve to trigger additional DTCs but then managed to clear ALL codes including the DPF ash problem!

The car still doesn’t start - however that’s somewhat expected having sat for a year or so. I’ll do the normal fuel, air ‘spark’ thing over the weekend.

Chuffed to get the codes off as it somewhat prove there’s no electronic issues. I’m hoping it’s now engine bits like filters and new fuel etc.

Will also flush the DPF and try and run it without.

I have a track day in the MX-5 on Saturday so no chance to do any work.

Hoping to get the DPF back on the car Sunday, then I'll drain the diesel (which smells like paint for some reason!), fit a new fuel filter and prime the system.

--------

And then today I bought a MK1 1.6 petrol Focus 😂

It belonged to a family member who was going to scrap it - but it has 4 new tyres so thats madness. Bit of rust on one wing and advisories last year were number plates and one drop link. So I'll get that up and running and MOT'd - looks like it may have a cooling issue (thermostat?) as it bubbles away in the expansion tank and occasionally throws a coolant fault code.

Having fun over here. 

 

Busy few weeks for you then! 😂 It does sound like a thermostat issue, not many other sensors or actuators on that engine. I think the rear drop link has just failed on my Mk5 Mondeo keeps making a noise going over bumps, annoyingly I gave my car a full check over on Tuesday!

The coolant reservoirs are common on Fords of that era, if it looks stained like a Tupperware you've had beans in then it's probably worth changing!  The caps fail too and no longer hold enough pressure to stop the coolant boiling.  Much cheaper & easier than a 'stat change if it is that.  

Evening all,

The Mk1 Focus got fixed up, passed the MOT with no advisories and sold the next day - great little car.

So back to the Mk2 and it’s still not starting. DPF is cleaned out (not yet refitted) and I’ve drained the fuel tank as the fuel smelled terribly off to me. New filter fitted and I believe it’s all primed but no change on the starting - although it was turning over slow so I’ve put the battery on charge now.

i sprayed a little easy start into the inlet manifold (yes I know, awful stuff!) - the car coughed a little like it wanted to start but if I put much more in it starts to knock, so I don’t want to risk it!

Still no codes, showing so some questions:

- what’s the normal cranking speed for these? The OBD reader show 200 rpm+ so is that enough for the compression to build?

- if the cranking speed shows up on the obd reader, I assume this mean the crank sensor is good?

- what pressure should the rail be displaying when cranking? It seems to show 210kpa

 

210kpa?  Sure it's not reading in bar?  It should be around 200 bar, which is 20,000kpa! 

If that is kpa, it probably just means there's still air in there after the filter change.  Will need more cranking on a good battery to get it pressurising. 

 

I suspect it’s inlet pressure rather than the rail - it’s just a free reader app so it’s not so clear.

I didn’t see an option to read live sensor data with Forscan so that would be more helpful, otherwise I need to rent/buy a workshop grade diagnostic tool or seek help from someone with one I guess.

There was a plan to clean the injectors but I’m loathed to remove more bits and potential add further issues.

3 minutes ago, MarkG_M5Comp said:

I suspect it’s inlet pressure rather than the rail - it’s just a free reader app so it’s not so clear.

I didn’t see an option to read live sensor data with Forscan so that would be more helpful, otherwise I need to rent/buy a workshop grade diagnostic tool or seek help from someone with one I guess.

There was a plan to clean the injectors but I’m loathed to remove more bits and potential add further issues.

Forscan on PC gives a huge list of live data readings, it is pretty much Ford dealer grade.  I've never tried the phone app though.

Ah, I have the PC version so I’ll spend time to find that - didn’t find live data before.

3 minutes ago, MarkG_M5Comp said:

Ah, I have the PC version so I’ll spend time to find that - didn’t find live data before.

3rd button down on the left that looks like a graph.  Then use the 'gear' cog button at the bottom to select the PID's you want.  Then along the top you can choose between a graph or a grid of numbers.  Once you're setup, press the play button (triangle, as seen on 1980s tape decks) and that's it.  You can even save graphs for future use.  

Thanks - got it.
So it it definitely running at 210 kpa as reported in Forscan too. So I've ordered a priming kit which I can connect in line to try and force fuel through, although I'm pretty sure I have unburned fuel coming out of the turn exit. 

Anyway, I'll see if that helps bring the pressure up. I can hear the fuel pump/solenoid whirring which I don't understand with it being mechanical but let's see.

The latest:

Fuel is going into and out of the fuel pump and is arriving at the injectors.

I bought some injector cleaner since the car has been stood a while, won’t hurt to try I thought. So I’ve removed the injectors - they look fine right?! 

Well they're knackered 😂 shouldn't have visible holes in the bottom. Injector 1 looks okay but I'd replace all 4. 

I have some on the way so let’s see if this resolves my starting issue.

Slightly concerned as to where the missing bits have gone so I’ll try to peer into the chamber.

Wow! 

I don't think you'll find anything in the chamber.  Looks like someone has run it on a 50/50 mix of diesel and sand and slowly worn the tips away. How many miles is it on? 

 

Only 92k

The DPF was blocked, I wonder if the excessive heat caused an issue 🤔

Really hoping to at least get it running so I can then see what other issues the car has!

Hopefully with new injectors it will start rather than dumping fuel straight into the cylinders! 🤞