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2012 Focus 1.0 Ecoboost 125 limp mode problem - any help greatly appreciated!

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Hi all,

Apologies in advance for what is likely going to be a lengthy post! I’ve been searching through various forums for months now hoping to find an answer to the problem I’ve been having with my 2012 Focus 1.0 Ecoboost 125. A lot of people with similar issues have been discussed but I thought I would share mine to see if someone may be able to help me, and hopefully maybe help others too as time goes on and I can update on the situation.

I’m not sure what is or isn’t relevant information to the current situation, so apologies if any of this seems pointless! I had my car MOT and interim service done in March of this year. The MOT required a new battery as the old one was leaking, and new brake pads and discs. This was all done, no issues noted.
 

After a few weeks I was driving along at around 50-60mph when I felt it go into limp mode. There were no engine warning lights (nor have there been at all since). My garage hooked up the code reader, which was showing p132b, which is seemingly a generic code for issues with the turbo/power. They quickly suspected the vac pump diaphragm had gone (common issue) and attempted to repair it themselves to try and save me the money on the entire part. The reason they made this diagnosis so quickly was due to another car they had seen a few months earlier with the same problem/code and the new vac pump solved it for him. Unfortunately the repair on mine didn’t work so we agreed that a new vac pump was necessary despite the cost. 
 

After having the same issues again, limp mode when accelerating in 6th gear around 50-75mph, they then replaced the turbo boost control valve. This also didn’t work, so they spent some time looking over all the parts, taking the turbo out and making sure it was all working as it should be, at least from what they are capable of checking in the garage. They found a small air leak which they repaired and they reset all the parameters for the turbo boost readings.

Unfortunately the issue was still occurring. I was advised to take it to a Ford dealer and have them diagnose it, as they believed it was more likely an electrical issue rather than mechanical, and if something like a software update was necessary it would have to be done by a Ford specialist anyway. After paying for the diagnostic with Ford, I was told it was the recirc valve that needed replacing. There was some confusion as I had spoken to the guy at the garage who assured me that was definitely the problem and that was all their systems had shown. Definitely no electrical faults. I of course questioned him on this as myself and my garage had been expecting a non-mechanical issue. He had also told me he had the same repair done on his and that I should opt for the Ford part rather than the after market part (as I was choosing to return to my garage for the repair), but have since found out from another Ford staff member and my own garage that there is no after market recirc valve available which really makes you wonder if he knew what he was talking about! The paperwork Ford provided simply said ‘suspect recirc valve’.  
 

My garage were really apprehensive to replace the recirc valve due to the cost of the part, but also because they had already   checked and pressure tested it and did not believe there was anything wrong. Having wrongly trusted that Ford knew their stuff, I opted to replace the part anyway but lo and behold the problem remained! Currently in a dispute with the Ford dealer regarding misdiagnosis but I won’t bore with the details of that! I will however mention that the guy I spoke to at Ford most recently accidentally admitted it could be an electrical fault, despite me pushing the first guy about it and him assuring me it wasn’t. They also emailed another Ford dealers for more information as they were ‘stumped’ and told me it’s likely a whole new turbo needed (despite my garage checking it over and everything being fine!) No apparent sticky actuator or any other common turbo problems.

 

Currently the situation is that I seem to be able to drive my car at the problem speeds as long as I don’t accelerate in 6th gear. I have been dropping down into 4th to get my speed back up if needs be. I also drove to and from York to Manchester and managed to get there doing this, and also just staying in 5th gear and ignoring 6th completely. My garage doesn’t want me to spend any more unnecessary money as I have already paid out around £850 thus far, so the plan is to keep doing what I’m doing to get around until they get their hands on another engine the same as mine. They plan on swapping out parts to test the air flow sensor, another sensor (that I cannot remember!) and the turbo itself. 

I’ve read all sorts of things including simple fixes like resetting battery parameters after a new one is fitted, the type of battery being incorrect or even replacement fuel filters. I’m certainly no expert on cars but what I do know is that often times problems can mask themselves as something very different! 
 

Myself and my garage are at a bit of a loss as what the problem actually is, so I am hoping there is someone out there who may be able to shed some light! 
 

A huge thank you in advance and apologies for the mini dissertation! Hopefully most of it makes sense!

 

  • 1 month later...


  • Author

Update: I no longer have the car, as you can imagine I got to the point of cutting my losses! But not before the head gasket went at 73,000 miles...not convinced the early 1.0 EcoBoost engines were up to scratch! Best of luck to anybody else encountering similar issues.

Hi Sarah, well at least the problem is no longer yours.

There are at least a dozen recent threads of people having major problems with the early ecoboost engines. Lots with snapped wet timing belts at mileage way under the 150,000 replacement point. There has also been a few with head gasket problems. It seems to me that they are trying to screw too much out of a tiny engine, but hey what do I know ? I drive a great big 2.0 diesel (OK, I know the Americans on here think that's a toy as they drive their 6.5 litre petrol engines).

  • 10 months later...

I have the same problem however linp

mode started in 5th gear today on acceleration uphill !!!

How's the oil pressure light doing ?

It's probably already too late but just encase it's still fixable you need to get looked at by a Ford main dealer 'Now' !!

Oil pressure is fine. No issues. Pulls well in low gears. Sometimes I get a notification, engine malfunction. Service now. It has a full service history.  Local mechanic replaced the turbo boost control solenoid for £230 but still the same problem. Purchased a vacuum pump valve to do myself as it’s a 5 minute job. I’m not mechanically minded but don’t have money to put out. 

Sometimes I get limp mode without a notification like today. On the motorway so couldn’t pull over and reset. 

2 hours ago, Dark one said:

I get a notification, engine malfunction. Service now. It has a full service history.

Just clear up any possible confusion the warning "Engine malfunction. Service now" is not in any way saying that the engine needs serviced. The warning is very misleading and should be read as "Engine malfunction. Needs repair now !"

Do not under estimate the urgency of this warning.

Has the Wet timing belt been replaced recently ? If not it is due in less than 12 months. It is something to consider before spending time and money trying to fix the fault you have at the moment.

I bought at 56’000 miles and now at 59k so as far as when I’ve had it, it hasn’t been changed. The mechanic I have gave me the cheapest way of testing by fixing the boost solenoid. As you say, might just bite the bullet and get a diagnostic from Ford. Bought it privately and after a week the fault happened. Oh well. I appreciate your help

If the fault is not there all the time, I would seriously look at getting rid now to someone like 'we buy anything .com'

Even if you get this problem solved now, you are still going to have to spend another £1200 to £1500 in less than a year just to get the wet timing belt replaced.

Oh *****. £5500 saved up for a Zetec S. I’ve had new tyres and brakes so it safe for the family. So many posts on here about what it can be. From vacuum pump to new turbo. FFS…..

Check for boost leaks around the pipes & IC as well.  

I'm guessing it's underboost, which takes a few seconds to trigger a warning.  Uphill in 5th is one of the few places where you'll be on the power long enough for it to flag a fault.

Forscan could be useful here, it's considerably cheaper than a main dealer diagnostic.

Great Tom, thank you. I’ll have one go with my local mechanic to see what code comes up now. 

  • 1 month later...

Just out the garage and it was looking like the Map sensors. There was stuttering going up the gears. They have now been changed so I will give it a run after work tomorrow. 🙏🏼

A quick run up the bypass and it still hasn’t worked. Going to book it in with Ford so they can plug it in and see exactly what it is. Possibly the Actuator but will need to be sure first. ☹️
 

250D01B6-ACB5-4B34-A24C-7C47BBC30027.jpeg

7 minutes ago, Dark one said:

A quick run up the bypass and it still hasn’t worked. Going to book it in with Ford so they can plug it in and see exactly what it is. Possibly the Actuator but will need to be sure first. ☹️
 

250D01B6-ACB5-4B34-A24C-7C47BBC30027.jpeg

Have you tried Forscan?  Will save you a lot in garage diagnostic fees!!  

My mechanic has snap on. It’s still coming up with the code for boost issues. I’ve paid out for other bits but Ford seem like the last option really. Then if they’re able to pin point it then I can get it fixed elsewhere

13 hours ago, Dark one said:

My mechanic has snap on. It’s still coming up with the code for boost issues. I’ve paid out for other bits but Ford seem like the last option really. Then if they’re able to pin point it then I can get it fixed elsewhere

Snap On is still just a generic reader.  You really need something Ford specific.  A Forscan adapter only costs £20 so far cheaper than paying your mechanic to use an inferior tool.

Ok. So I plug it in and it’ll point to the exact part that’s failing ? 

  • 1 year later...

Hi there I am currently experiencing the same issue with my Focus. Did you ever get this issue resolved and if so what was the cause. Thanks.

6 minutes ago, Chris.Focus said:

I am currently experiencing the same issue with my Focus.

This thread is about a Petrol 1.0 Ecoboost engine. Is that what you have as your profile is a bit confusing ?

As said above you need to use FORScan and read the DTC's for your car.

  • 5 months later...

Got the issue resolved eventually. After scanning the codes came up with a boost pressure. That was actually caused by the dpf being so backed up it was restricting the flow which was causing the car to go into limp mode 

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