Acc fuse

[Gymfocused]

Hello, I bought the drl/fog units for my wife's mk7 from autobeam. I'm trying to work out which fuse I can feed off in the fusebox under the bonnet and also which yellow lead I splice off on the headlight plug please? 

[Gymfocused]

Is someone able to point me in the right direction please? Is it an orange wire or yellow? 

[unofix]

Hello Simon, I think we need a little more information from you before we can help.

Are you wanting to connect these lights up as DRL or as front Fog or as Driving lights ?

If you want them as DRL then they will not be getting connected to the headlight circuit.

[Gymfocused]

12 hours ago, unofix said:

Hello Simon, I think we need a little more information from you before we can help.

Are you wanting to connect these lights up as DRL or as front Fog or as Driving lights ?

If you want them as DRL then they will not be getting connected to the headlight circuit.

Hello, thanks for replying. The units are a combined drl/fog system. It needs the red wire connecting to an ignition on, which i have bought a connection from autostar for so i so can plug into a spare slot in the engine bay fuse box... and the other wire for the system needs a connection to the headlight wire, pin 1 i think to act as a switch so when the headlights come on, the drls switch off.

[unofix]

2 hours ago, Gymfocused said:

and the other wire for the system needs a connection to the headlight wire, pin 1 i think to act as a switch so when the headlights come on, the drls switch off.

OK Simon, that makes sence but there is a flaw in the master plan. So as you say you connect the Red wire to a supply controlled by the ignition and when the that becomes live on comes the DRL's.

Next is the idea of connecting the other wire to the headlights. Firstly I'm not sure why it would be designed to turn the DRL's off when the headlights are on. What does it matter if they stay on, after all the headlights are much brighter?

That said, the problem that I see is if you connect the wire to the Dipped beam headlights then when you use the High beam the DRL's will come back on. If you connect to the High beam then they will come on when you use the low beam, either way the DRL's are going to be on with one setting of the headlights.

You say that these lights are DRL's & Front Fog. Is it not that the other wire is intended to be connected via a switch to the Dipped beam circuit so that you can only turn them on as Fog lights when the Dipped beam lights are in use which is a UK vehicle lighting regulation ?

 

[Gymfocused]

9 minutes ago, unofix said:

OK Simon, that makes sence but there is a flaw in the master plan. So as you say you connect the Red wire to a supply controlled by the ignition and when the that becomes live on comes the DRL's.

Next is the idea of connecting the other wire to the headlights. Firstly I'm not sure why it would be designed to turn the DRL's off when the headlights are on. What does it matter if they stay on, after all the headlights are much brighter?

That said, the problem that I see is if you connect the wire to the Dipped beam headlights then when you use the High beam the DRL's will come back on. If you connect to the High beam then they will come on when you use the low beam, either way the DRL's are going to be on with one setting of the headlights.

You say that these lights are DRL's & Front Fog. Is it not that the other wire is intended to be connected via a switch to the Dipped beam circuit so that you can only turn them on as Fog lights when the Dipped beam lights are in use which is a UK vehicle lighting regulation ?

 

Hi, thanks for replying again. The units are also connected to a control box as well. The kit comes with those snap lock connectors. Would you happen to know which slot I can wire into in the fuse box please? I know I did a simpler system on my focus yrs ago but, I'm assuming that the fuse boxes are completely different. 

[Gymfocused]

[unofix]

Not sure which fusebox you have on your car. See attached listing which I think is your passenger side fusebox.

Use a piggy back fuse and try it in the position F110 for the factory fitted DRL's. only one side of the fuseholder will have a contact but it should be come live with ignition on.

[Gymfocused]

19 minutes ago, unofix said:

Not sure which fusebox you have on your car. See attached listing which I think is your passenger side fusebox.

Use a piggy back fuse and try it in the position F110 for the factory fitted DRL's. only one side of the fuseholder will have a contact but it should be come live with ignition on.

Thank you once again for replying. Is it possible to run it without the headlight connection do you think? Or if not, is it pin 1 i need tapping into please?

This is the connection from autostar that arrived this morning, although i dont know why the red wire has that connector on the end as that wont fit a fuse slot...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180735820543

[unofix]

Hi Simon, yes you probably can run them without a connection to the headlight, but there are only 3 wires to the actual headlight bulb if I remember correctly. The brown is ground and then you will probably have a white wire and a yellow wire. I think the white is dipped beam (not sure) you could connect to that. Worst case is if its the wrong wire the DRL will be on with dipped beam and off with high beam.

The little fuse tap you have from Autostar is possibly to big for your size fusebox. There are a possible 3 sizes, 'Normal' not often used now, Mini and Micro. They can all be bought from Halfords if you want to take a look at them and find the right size.

[Gymfocused]

On 8/17/2021 at 6:08 PM, unofix said:

Hi Simon, yes you probably can run them without a connection to the headlight, but there are only 3 wires to the actual headlight bulb if I remember correctly. The brown is ground and then you will probably have a white wire and a yellow wire. I think the white is dipped beam (not sure) you could connect to that. Worst case is if its the wrong wire the DRL will be on with dipped beam and off with high beam.

The little fuse tap you have from Autostar is possibly to big for your size fusebox. There are a possible 3 sizes, 'Normal' not often used now, Mini and Micro. They can all be bought from Halfords if you want to take a look at them and find the right size.

This is the fusebox on my wife's car. Could f25 be suitable please?

[unofix]

Hello Simon, you dont have a fuse 25, there are no contacts fitted in your fusebox.

If you are looking for an ignition controlled circuit you could try fuse 34.

[Gymfocused]

9 minutes ago, unofix said:

Hello Simon, you dont have a fuse 25, there are no contacts fitted in your fusebox.

If you are looking for an ignition controlled circuit you could try fuse 34.

Would that mean inserting the current fuse into the autostar connection then please? 

[unofix]

Just for confirmation of the item in question for the future it is a 'Fuse Tap' in your case it just so happens that it is made by Autostar.

Yes you remove the exsisting 20A fuse and fit that in the bottom location of the fuse tap. You can check that you have put it in the correct slot by putting the fuse tap with just the 20A fuse back in to the fuse box and that circuit should work as normal. If not then you have the fuse in the wrong position.

Then you need to fit the fuse for your DRL's in to the second slot on the fuse tap and connect the aux wire from the fuse tap to the red positive of the DRL's.

[Gymfocused]

10 minutes ago, unofix said:

Just for confirmation of the item in question for the future it is a 'Fuse Tap' in your case it just so happens that it is made by Autostar.

Yes you remove the exsisting 20A fuse and fit that in the bottom location of the fuse tap. You can check that you have put it in the correct slot by putting the fuse tap with just the 20A fuse back in to the fuse box and that circuit should work as normal. If not then you have the fuse in the wrong position.

Then you need to fit the fuse for your DRL's in to the second slot on the fuse tap and connect the aux wire from the fuse tap to the red positive of the DRL's.

I really appreciate your help with this. The red wire for the positive feed for these units has an inline fuse already fitted. That should be OK please?

[unofix]

The in-line fuse will be fine but what ever value it is you are going to need to put the same value in slot two (top slot) of the fuse tap for it to work.

[Gymfocused]

2 hours ago, unofix said:

The in-line fuse will be fine but what ever value it is you are going to need to put the same value in slot two (top slot) of the fuse tap for it to work.

Thank you once again for helping me out with this problem. I think you're very knowledgeable! The setup i put on my Focus was much simpler lol 

2 hours ago, unofix said:

 

 

[Marky146]

I just hope the connection you are making isn't CANBUS controlled. As a lot of the ACC and IGN fuse lines are permanently live in the fuse box and its a nightmare to wire anything in. 

Ideally you'd want to connect your Pin 1 cut-out wire to the sidelight circuit. As the DRL is very bright and certainly on FORD's Factory 7.5 DRL equipped cars the DRLs switch to a low setting to function as the sidelight. 

Best of luck. 

[Gymfocused]

On 8/22/2021 at 5:14 PM, unofix said:

The in-line fuse will be fine but what ever value it is you are going to need to put the same value in slot two (top slot) of the fuse tap for it to work.

Hi, it's me again! I have tried wiring one unit in this afternoon to see if I have the right fuse slot. I tried the fuel pump slot and one or 2 others. The drl slot actually has contacts! The new drl just stays on, even with the ignition off! Can I please have some more help? Tia.

[Gymfocused]

Surely the drls shouldn't just be on when I connect to positive? I was simply test fitting one side.... I must be doing something wrong right?

[Gymfocused]

Can anyone please help me? I'm desperate to get these working for my wife. Tia