Hi all,

I'm looking for some thought on my new plans here, I've spent a lot of my Sunday thinking this out while on a three hour walk through a local forest with the dog, 

later came home and got writing, 

so as some of you already know; I've bought a 2012 Hyundai ix20, same as the one pictured below, and they don't come with DRL's fitted from 2010-2015

Then in 2015 everything stayed the same with the car just changed front grill and sectioned off the corners of the front fog lights adding a P27/7W 3157 bulb for use as DRL & Parking light, 

 

so I've managed to purchase myself a set of 2015 Hyundai ix20 fog lights from micksgargae.com they arrived next day much to my wife's complete outrage and overall disappointment but I was absolutely delighted 🤓

The facelift 2015-2020 front fog/DRL units are listed as non LED in the sense that no LED are fitted in to the units, however the bulbs can be upgraded to LED which means the units will stand to last a longer period of time rather than something sealed within the housing, the bulbs can always be easily replaced.

So when I order both front fog lamp units; what’s in the box?

You get two fog light housings and that’s all; there’s no bulbs; where the main fog light socket is built in to H27W/1 fog light bulb that’s understandable why there’s no physical socket,

It would have been nice to receive two 3157 bulb fitting sockets to take the P27/7W 3157 bulb’s for those 2010-2015 Hyundai ix20 owners seeking to fit DRL.

However they didn’t so the options are open here:

Option A: Purchase two Single filament T20 7440 bulb sockets and fit Single filament W21 T20 LED bulbs; providing a 21w DRL & estimated 10w DRL when parking light, dipped beam are active.

Option B: Purchase two Dual filament T20 7443 bulb sockets and fit dual filament W21/5 T20 LED bulbs; providing a 21w DRL & 5W DRL when parking light, dipped beam are active,

Option C :Purchase two Dual filament 3157 bulb sockets and fit P27/7W 3157 LED bulbs; providing a 21w DRL & 5W DRL when parking light, dipped beam are active,

Personally; I’m going with option C as its slightly brighter than A,B & coincides with the standard fitment of the facelift model’s specified bulb list; but requires a little more wiring than option A however I enjoy the fitting process.

My choice of wiring loom for all above options A, B or C would be the same; opting for a pre-built DRL wiring kit from eBay such as this Universal LED Daytime Running Light DRL Relay Harness On/Off Controller Switch | eBay few reasons for choosing one of these kits rather than fully creating my own loom is that; these kits have a time delay shut off to the DRL after the car is parked meaning the DRL stay on for a short time after the vehicle is parked, I like that feature and wouldn’t be capable of achieving it by using standard relays of my own, the price of these looms is also very competitive compared to full creation myself, saving on both material cost and shipping from various suppliers.

Ill then be adding an auto off relay to the head of this DRL wiring loom

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B088CTBWMP/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1DBC97EH2O973&psc=1

 where the power feeding to the high power light (DRL) will be entirely shut off; when the parking lights are turned off as well as dipped beam etc.

The low illumination part will be wired in to the existing parking light source, so the low filament from the new install will function along side the existing parking bulbs.

An Auto-off relay will then cut power to the DRL section when the parking lights become active.

so I've drawn up a diagram here and id appreciate others input on it, especially those with experience with relays, 

i could scrap the DRL wiring kit in favour of a 5-pin split relay which would switch from DRL to 7w automatically when parking lights are active, 

but i was hoping to fit the DRL kit as it has a delay time of 25 seconds to turn off the DRL's after the engine has been stopped, which will happen provided the parking lights are turned off then the 4-pin Normally closed relay will be providing power to the DRL controller.

I've installed DRL wiring kits before as well as other electronics and created many guides, but this is my first time altering things a little further, the only problem i can see arising is that the negative feed to the P27/7W 3157 bulb housing is shared, and the DRL kit provides a positive & negative to the socket, question there weather the negative will still suffice for the 7w part to function when the DRL system is dead. 

Here's my diagram  

Diagram above; was created based on these two items below working together in one system to achieve a result where the 27w section functions as DRL, 

Then when parking lights are turned ON the "SPST" Relay automatically shuts off power to the DRL kit, 

The 7w section of the bulb is spliced in to the positive of the front parking lights to act as an additional parking light.  

 

Here's how a normally closed relay functions:

 

And here's the alternative option to scrap the DRL wiring kit; i wouldn't have the time delay function, but the 5-Pin version will put power either to the 27W DRL or 7W parking rather than shutting down the DRL loom, 

 

@tunne1rat are you still on here mate?

id appreciate it if you could review my above plan and tell me your thoughts, 

been thinking about this further myself, 

and to avoid any risk of damage in the above diagram; where there's a question regarding the negative from the DRL loom affecting the operation of the Parking light filament which is on a separate circuit. 

I'm going to install things a bit differently. 

Plan is to first fit an auto time off delay module to a piggyback fuse on an ignition live source in the engine bay fuse box, 

MINI CAR DRL LED FRONT LIGHTS DELAY TURN OFF TIMER SWITCH 1 TO 90 s 12V 20A BOX | eBay 

then from that time off delay box its going in to a Bosch Style 5 Pin SDT Relay 

Gebildet 2 Pieces 40/30A 12V Waterproof Relay Cable Set - Bosch Style 5 Pin SDT Relay with Heavy Duty 16AWG 14AWG Cable : Amazon.de: Automotive 

this relay will be permanently feeding power to the DRL section of the dual filament bulb, unless the parking lights are active; in which case the relay switches automatically from DRL section to the 7w Parking light section of the bulb. 

differences on this setup are; the same earth can be shared and there's no risk of equipment damage; should the relay fail then it doesn't switch from DRL to parking that's all; there no risk of over voltage,