Hi folks. Proud owner of a 'new' used Ford Focus 2006(56) 1.8 Zetec Climate 5dr Petrol in the UK.  Engine = 1.8L Duratec-HE PFI (125PS) Petrol

It is in good condition with low miles (58,218 Miles), but I would really value advice on a couple of things as I am finding conflicting info online on. I am a non-expert, so hard to get good information!

1) Does this car model have a timing belt or chain? If chain - great!...  If a timing belt, I was trying to decide whether worth the £320! cost to replace (significant portion of the car cost at £1200 when bought). Am I being too eager, or could I leave this a year or two given car may not last too long anyway. Appreciate that while mileage is low, age is getting on. Any advice? Perhaps I can do an interim check of condition of belt to help decision, if accessible?

2) It hasn't been serviced in a few years, but passed it's MOT fine a few months ago. What would folk suggest as a minimum in terms of service? I am thinking getting engine oil/filter replaced, brake fluid, aircon fluid, antifreeze ? Perhaps again I am being too keen - given the low price of car and likely need. Just basically want it to run well for a year or two and not miss anything important, without spending too much. 

Thanks a bunch!

2 hours ago, Patrick12345 said:

Does this car model have a timing belt or chain?

These engines are chain driven, I wouldn't worry about it breaking on you unless the tensioner fails.

2 hours ago, Patrick12345 said:

It hasn't been serviced in a few years, but passed it's MOT fine a few months ago

Don't fool yourself into thinking that passing MOT'S means the car has been looked after. Doing basic periodic servicing has no bearing on the MOT.

I'd certainly do an oil/filter change if it's not had one for a few years. Have you no service history for it? If not then change the antifreeze and brake fluid. The antifreeze doesn't need changing that often unless the strength is wrong or it's causing corrosion.

2 hours ago, Patrick12345 said:

aircon fluid

I mean this isn't a real thing, but I get what you mean lol. It's actually refrigerant gas that gets circulated round the system. People call the compressor an "air con pump", when infact it would cause damage if too much fluid got inside it.

Anyway, if it's blowing cold, then there's no point whatsoever in "re-gassing" the system. With refrigerant I like to use the saying "If it's not broken, don't fix it".

If it's not blowing cold, you'll most likely have a leak somewhere that's causing the current refrigerant to leak out. Re-gassing it may work for a few weeks, but it'll just slowly leak out and stop again until you fix it properly.

Less than 60,000 miles is nothing. That engine should run for years if you look after it. The biggest problem you should face is body/suspension rust.

Hi @Luke4efc- thanks so much for this info. Great RE. the chain belt - that is an unintended but very fortuitous money saver!

RE. MOT - I assume I can feel somewhat comfortable that the brakes, lights, etc should all be OK since they are checked? Giving at least some sense of safety? Agree lots else to be missed potentially.

Thanks also for the advice RE. servicing. There is some evidence that is has been serviced (most recently in 2015 and 2017), but not sure exactly what that entailed. I think your advice to replace oil/filter, antifreeze and break fluid makes sense - anything else I should obviously ask for a check on?  I guess I will probably also just ask the mechanic to do a 'walkaround' look anyway for anything obvious I should be thinking about. I know that during COVID this car was 'sitting around' for a bit, but corrosion looks good. It did make me think I should be doing some checks on battery etc. Good advice on air con gas (sorry my slip!) - agree best to just leave until needed, particularly going into winter - not likely to be needed for a while!

My other (slight) worries were the clutch and head gasket. Not because I noticed anything wrong, but that if they went that would probably send the car to scrap. Is there anything preventative I can do or check there. I did notice the clutch 'caught' quite high which I gather can mean future issues, but that may have been perfectly fine/normal... it seems to change smoothly otherwise. Hard to know for sure.

Thanks again! 

21 minutes ago, Patrick12345 said:

that the brakes, lights, etc should all be OK since they are checked? Giving at least some sense of safety?

I suppose, but it literally is just a visual inspection/functional check. The wheels don't even get removed along with any plastic undertrays that are very good at hiding oil leaks (don't ask me how I know 😉). Most of the time you can't accurately check the amount of meat left on the pads as the spokes of the wheel are in the way.

An MOT is only really valid on the day it was done, anything can happen afterwards. Just look at how many cars you see with the odd brake light or headlight out.

Really you should give the car a thorough inspection yourself (basically a "mini MOT") before you buy it anyway, or at least take someone who knows what to look for.

30 minutes ago, Patrick12345 said:

My other (slight) worries were the clutch and head gasket. Is there anything preventative I can do or check there.

Not really. A head gasket usually fails because of overheating, or poor installation previously. Again if it's not broken, don't fix it.

Best way to get the most life out of a clutch is to not continually "ride" it in traffic. If you're not going anywhere, press the brake rather than use the clutch to stop you rolling.

I believe a high bite point is pretty normal on these.