1 minute ago, SB active X estate said:

👍😊brilliant I’ll do that! What wifi adaptor would you recommend?

cheers!

Most people on this Forum use the one that Tunnelrats sell  https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/WiFi_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045473.aspx  and it seems to be trouble free, although I have not used it myself.

I would not try to do complicated Service Procedures with it though because it is unlikely to be quick enough.

I use an OBDLINK MX Bluetooth one myself, which is as fast as some wired ones but they cost about £100.

I would not recommend buying a wireless one from the usual sites because the chances of them working correctly are quite small.

 

 

On 11/17/2021 at 2:21 PM, unofix said:

You need to learn to live with it like everyone else.

The Stop/Start system has many issues and it suffers from the Goldilocks syndrome. There is a list of over 20 main items that have to be "just right" before the system works.

Your cars 'Smart' charging system is programmed to keep the battery charged only to 80% of its capacity all in the name of emissions. If you really want your Stop/Start system to work every day (and I personally can't think why anyone would) you have only 2 options.

Option 1. At least once per week (every week) you need to connect your car to a smart battery charger and leave it on charge for at least 12 hours. Be sure to charge the battery on the vehicle and connect the positive charger lead to the battery positive, BUT, connect the negative charger lead to the vehicle main chassis/body earth point next to the battery. Do not connect it to the battery negative terminal or you will be by-passing the SOC monitor and the car will not know the battery has been charged.

Option2. You can use software called FORScan and go in to the vehicle settings and adjust the state of charge from the default of 80%. On my car I have adjusted the SOC to 95% (not so that S/S works) and on the whole my car is much happier. The keyless entry now always works on all 4 doors and also the auto-hold function is always available both of which are effected by the battery level being low.

 

 

52 minutes ago, unofix said:

Hello Simon, so quick answer first. Your dashcam takes so little current it would have to be on for along time to make any real difference to the battey.

What you are wanting to see/measure is the level that your battery has been charged up to when you switch off. The answer should of course be 80% of whatever your battery capacity is. However due to lots of short journeys and at this time of year use of heated screens, heated seats and headlights for almost every hour of the day your battery will be very unlikely to reach a state of charge of 80%. Over a period of a few weeks it will become less and less charged. The car will begin saving power by what ever means it can, so first to not work is always 'Start/Stop' followed closely by 'Auto Hold' or 'Hill Assist', then next keyless entry will only work on the drivers door, and of course the heated front screen won't work. Shortly afterwards the rear screen will also stop working. By this time your battery is reaching the critical point of not being able to start your car.

So back to my answers right at the begining

and in the words of Barry Norman "And There You Have It !"        ( I know you will be to young to know him)

Thanks really helpful! Ha! No such luck. I miss Barry Norman too!! 

8 minutes ago, unofix said:

 

Brilliant! He’s just like Young Sheldon all grown up! 

13 minutes ago, Tizer said:

Most people on this Forum use the one that Tunnelrats sell  https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/WiFi_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045473.aspx  and it seems to be trouble free, although I have not used it myself.

I would not try to do complicated Service Procedures with it though because it is unlikely to be quick enough.

I use an OBDLINK MX Bluetooth one myself, which is as fast as some wired ones but they cost about £100.

I would not recommend buying a wireless one from the usual sites because the chances of them working correctly are quite small.

 

Cheers John, that’s fantastic. Yes, good advice, I’ll leave anything other than reading data to a wired connection. Many thanks!

8 minutes ago, SB active X estate said:

Brilliant! He’s just like Young Sheldon all grown up! 

I don’t watch it of course, just the rugrats! 😂

Not sure how relevant/interesting this info is to this thread but here goes

I recently took my car to the dealer with a list of niggles inc. stop/start, before it went in I measured the voltage across the battery terminals at 12.35v. The dealer's comment was that the battery and charging system are OK, battery is 87% charged. I'd added the battery to the list at the last minute because the stop/start didn't seem to work as the manual suggested it should.

Subsequently I put the battery on charge with my CTEK charger after checking the voltage while the engine running (= charging voltage) - this was 14.82v.

After charging with the CTEK (connecting to the +ve battery terminal and the bolt that secures the erath lead to the chassis), battery voltage was 12.45v. This is of course with the bonnet open, and waiting for the puddle lights/welcome lights - i.e. the car-christmas-tree - to go off. I would have expected 12.6v - 12.8v but who knows what current drain is going on with the doors unlocked and the bonnet open. The CTEK went from stage 4 (ready to use) to Stage 7 ("Fully Charged") in between 2 and 4 hours - I'd charged another battery a few days before and it took the expected 8 hours.

I think the stop-start is working, I have it deactivated unless I forget to press the button (which my wife usually does!) so it could go un-noticed if there is a problem.

My position is that with 2 years left on the warranty, I've flagged a concern in this respect early on so if something does crop up later I can say that I hadn't been ignoring any tell-tale signs!

On 11/17/2021 at 2:21 PM, unofix said:

You can use software called FORScan and go in to the vehicle settings and adjust the state of charge from the default of 80%. On my car I have adjusted the SOC to 95%

This is a great little nugget of info which I will definitely be trying. 

Unofix it is not the fact that the stop/start does not work but the endless stream of messages that tells me on my ford app and the display in the car when I get in that the system is turned off to protect the battery I have never had a car that needed charging every week because it could not charge its self this is my 5th Focus and last.

Hello @Albi1 don't get upset about having to charge your car every week or so. By 2030 you will get the pleasure of charging it every day, sometimes even more than once.

This crazy battery problem is not unique to Ford, its all makes and models as the Tree Huggers force car manufactures to meet impossible emission targets. Do as I have done with mine and set the SOC to 95% and the problem will go away. 

On 11/17/2021 at 2:21 PM, unofix said:

 

Option2. You can use software called FORScan and go in to the vehicle settings and adjust the state of charge from the default of 80%. On my car I have adjusted the SOC to 95% (not so that S/S works) and on the whole my car is much happier. The keyless entry now always works on all 4 doors and also the auto-hold function is always available both of which are effected by the battery level being low.

Hi @Unofix, how do you actually go about doing this using Forscan? I now have access to Forscan and a connection module. I just don't know where to go to adjust the SOC.

 

I would be interested to know too, I cannot for the life of me find it

This guy has a very helpful YouTube video on how to change it. Yes I know it's in German but it has sub-titles and he makes it easy to understand.

The real information that you want starts at the 3:55 point in the video.

 

That's great, thank you!

After you reset the SOC, did you also reset the BMS, and if so, did you do it via Forscan?

No I didn't reset the BMS, there is no need to. The battery charge level will be at what ever it is (for example 77%) and now the system knows it has to charge the battery to what ever the new SOC is (mine is set at 95%).

I think resetting the BMS would probably not be a good idea since the smart charge system may try and charge the battery too fast if it has no memory of the present level of charge.

Well I've made the change to the SOC and it is now 95%  I also fully charged the battery overnight, so all should be good from here on in.

It's just below freezing here this morning, so I'm going to leave it a few hours before I check things out. I don't want to clobber the battery with front and rear window heaters just yet.

Sorry, posted in wrong thread!

Edited November 30, 20214 yr by archie2000
Operator error

3 minutes ago, archie2000 said:

Well blow me down!

I bought this car at the beginning of July, and today, for the first time since I have had it, the auto Stop/Start worked!

Although I did go for a run yesterday, it didn't work.

I'm convinced by my own observations that the charge isn't put back into the system until the key cycle has been completed. It's never been on the same day as you " go for a long run" but that's just my theory.

Not sure why so many are having issues with the locking via different door scenario as I've mentioned before that there won't be many that do less miles than myself (13.5 miles per week commute only) and my door locks all work as does the heated seats, screens and aircon.

Hello David, do you know what the SOC is currently set to on your car ?

 

25 minutes ago, unofix said:

Hello David, do you know what the SOC is currently set to on your car ?

 

Not a clue tbh 😲 All I do know is that a few weeks ago I charged the battery when I got the  "Smart charger" and left it alone since. Prior to charging it up all was working ok and it was more of a see what the battery was reading than owt else after having it on the car for almost 2yrs after the original one failed after only being 6 months old and the car was stood for 3 weeks.

My stop/start on my 2016 ford focus works completely fine but i still get system off save battery messages on my radio. I got a new battery hoping it would fix the issue but nothing helped. Any help would be appreciated. 

Did you reset the BMS after fitting the new battery ?