So looks as if I have wasted my money. No difference with that interface. Forscan is reporting my VIN in some modules as either 'TestConfiguration' or in the case of the PDM, 000000000000. 

Any module which lists the correct VIN are programmable and those without the VIN or TestConfiguration don't show up. So  either I get a PDM which exactly matches what the old one did, then I'm totally stuck. Losing the will now!

I'll post in the Forscan Forum but it looks as though my older vehicle may be the problem.

That is very odd. I see that the PDM reports a VIN 0000000000000000 but at the same time shows the same distance in kM which must be wrong if it is a different unit.

As you say it is worth asking for help on the FORScan forum. Let us know if you get any answers. 👍

14 minutes ago, unofix said:

That is very odd. I see that the PDM reports a VIN 0000000000000000 but at the same time shows the same distance in kM which must be wrong if it is a different unit.

As you say it is worth asking for help on the FORScan forum. Let us know if you get any answers. 👍

So my next plan assuming I get no answers over on Forscan, is to remove all the dead looking components on the old PDM and replace them with the ones from the replacement. Assuming that the data will be held in one of the ICs which still look ok, it might just work. 

Hi Kevin, should you try swapping the components it will be best to take them off the broken unit and move them over to the replacement.

There are only 4 possible components that could  hold the individual data on the circuit board. Sadly a couple of them are in the 'poorly' area.

I have numbered them in the most probable sequence, and so I'd swap number 1 first and give it a try, and if no luck move on swapping them one at a time.

1 hour ago, unofix said:

Hi Kevin, should you try swapping the components it will be best to take them off the broken unit and move them over to the replacement.

There are only 4 possible components that could  hold the individual data on the circuit board. Sadly a couple of them are in the 'poorly' area.

I have numbered them in the most probable sequence, and so I'd swap number 1 first and give it a try, and if no luck move on swapping them one at a time.

Thanks. Good advice. On closer inspection, IC number 2 is an EEPROM. So probably worth transplanting this across to the new board first. It doesn’t look too badly affected either. Good possibility that the data will be fine. 

9 minutes ago, Kevwrightuk said:

Thanks. Good advice. On closer inspection, IC number 2 is an EEPROM. So probably worth transplanting this across to the new board first. It doesn’t look too badly affected either. Good possibility that the data will be fine. 

Not too sure what number 1 is. But number 3 is the LINbus chip and 4 is a processor. So fingers crossed that the EEPROM is fine and hasn’t been corrupted. 

Excellent detective work.

So you can rule out 3 and 4.

Number 2 looks like the best option. Without being able to see the numbers I wondered if number 1 could be something like a Pic16 device. 

17 minutes ago, unofix said:

Excellent detective work.

So you can rule out 3 and 4.

Number 2 looks like the best option. Without being able to see the numbers I wondered if number 1 could be something like a Pic16 device. 

Update. EEPROM moved across. 
Not fixed but different behaviour. 
No central locking on either front or rear passenger doors. No switch illumination on rear. Front switch illumination now flashes on and off steadily. 
Both front and rear windows will operate from door switches, but will only nudge up and down an inch or so with each press. 
Auto up and down does nothing. 
Drivers window controls don’t operate passenger windows. 
Having reset all modules, I now get no errors from the PDM. None from the BCM but still an error from the IPC. Lost comms with door control module B. 
 

The pain continues. 

Just a quick one Kevin, have you tried the 'disconnect car battery' for 30 minutes reset ?

I assume the problem must be the modules are "out of sync" with each other, or the EEPROM has become partly corrupt.

One step forward and two steps back

39 minutes ago, unofix said:

Just a quick one Kevin, have you tried the 'disconnect car battery' for 30 minutes reset ?

I assume the problem must be the modules are "out of sync" with each other, or the EEPROM has become partly corrupt.

One step forward and two steps back

I haven’t yet. I was under the impression (probably incorrect) that a BCM reset did the same thing. Will try now. Thanks. 

3 hours ago, Kevwrightuk said:

I haven’t yet. I was under the impression (probably incorrect) that a BCM reset did the same thing. Will try now. Thanks. 

No change, no change.

Just for fun, I moved ICs 1 and 4 over to the new board as well. No difference. I couldn't move no.3 (LINbus) as this is completely ruined on the old board. (missing legs!)

I am not getting faults in either DDM or PDM now but still getting the fault in the IPC and BCM (lost comms to door module B). Interestingly there is now no hardware information in the config for the PDM. See pictures. Drivers door window auto up keeps going off too. Have to perform a window reset (fully down, press button, fully up, press button) to get it to auto close or via the keyfob. Presume this is all messed up due to the PDM.

Given that I can;t program the PDM from the AsBuilt, I've ordered another PDM from an exact same car and hope that the config will be the same. If that fails, the only thing left is for me to pay Ford to connect IDS and sort it all out. Don't want to go down that route if possible.

 

I'm still baffled why the overall VIN and PCM VIN is reporting as 'Testconfiguration' instead of the actual VIN number. I do have option to reset the PCM to AsBuilt, but I presume this won't affect the VIN number issue?

Not sure what further tests I can do with my limited Forscan options. But I'm not giving up! At least now I have an OBD link that doesn't require me to flick a switch everytime I need to access MS canbus. 🙂

But this is turning into an expensive window and CL problem. Oh, and the wing mirror indicator has stopped working, although the mirrors still move!

 

4 hours ago, Kevwrightuk said:

. I do have option to reset the PCM to AsBuilt, but I presume this won't affect the VIN number issue?

At this point in time what have you got to loose ?

I'd go for it and reset PCM to AsBuilt, it can hardly make things worse than they are now.

Looks like your battery voltage is getting dangerously low to be doing programming, best to put it on charge.

35 minutes ago, unofix said:

At this point in time what have you got to loose ?

I'd go for it and reset PCM to AsBuilt, it can hardly make things worse than they are now.

Looks like your battery voltage is getting dangerously low to be doing programming, best to put it on charge.

Yes, the car has been off the road for so long now, the battery is struggling. I’ll stick a charger on it tomorrow and let it sit all day. 
just to add to my misery, I also have general electrical fault for all 4 rear parking sensors. Again, loom and connections seem fine. Earths all good. 
do I get another control module only to find it’s not different? 12v getting to the module and sensors. 

Once the state of charge (SOC) falls below 70% all sorts of crazy faults occur. Wait until the battery has been on charge for at least 8 hours before trying to sort out possible problems.

Update: 

received another PDM this time from the same model and all problems have gone. 
rear door now behaves as do all locks and windows. 
Now just a couple of minor issues remaining. 
Rear parking sensor fault. Was all 4 but on repairing the loom, only one remains faulty. Rules out wiring by swapping the sensors. New one on order and should cure. 
Finally, stop lamp warning on dash and yet all brake lights work fine. 
Correct bulbs in all 3 lamps, no led bulbs, doesn’t have the resister in the top lamp. Tried disconnecting battery. 
Warning light persists. Tempted to just ignore it but it’s not in my nature. 
 

Hi Kevin, excellent news that you have the door problems fixed.

The brake light failure warning - does your car use the lamps with the dual stop(21W) & tail(5W) elements ? If the answer is yes then replace them. Often there is a partial short-circuit between the elements which causes alters the resistance of the brake light circuit and causes the warning. From memory I don't think the centre brake light is included with the lamp failure detection circuit.

1 hour ago, unofix said:

Hi Kevin, excellent news that you have the door problems fixed.

The brake light failure warning - does your car use the lamps with the dual stop(21W) & tail(5W) elements ? If the answer is yes then replace them. Often there is a partial short-circuit between the elements which causes alters the resistance of the brake light circuit and causes the warning. From memory I don't think the centre brake light is included with the lamp failure detection circuit.

Hi, it turns out that the stop lamp bulb was a 5w instead of a 16w bulb. Hence the warning. Now cleared. 
New reversing sensor just gone in and that’s fixed also. 
 

So for now, that’s everything done. MOT to book before the next round of fun begins. 
 

Thanks for all your assistance. I have no doubt I’ll be back soon. 😂

I could weep. Everything done and car tidied up and ready for mot. 
Now it has started to sound like a bag of hammers, engine vibrates badly at about 1500 rpm and doesn’t start too well when hot now. 
Ive nearly had enough. I’m at the point where I think I’ll just take it somewhere and say ‘fix it please’ 

Can’t think the timing has slipped but can’t bear to strip it down just to find out it hasn’t. Could be an injector playing up I guess. No fault codes to be seen. 

2 hours ago, Kevwrightuk said:

I could weep. Everything done and car tidied up and ready for mot. 
Now it has started to sound like a bag of hammers, engine vibrates badly at about 1500 rpm and doesn’t start too well when hot now. 
Ive nearly had enough. I’m at the point where I think I’ll just take it somewhere and say ‘fix it please’ 

Can’t think the timing has slipped but can’t bear to strip it down just to find out it hasn’t. Could be an injector playing up I guess. No fault codes to be seen. 

Aaaaghh! This is not going well. Below are 3 snapshots taken from Forscan for my CymBal, I know it doesn't really tell me much but I would assume that ideally all 4 cylinders should be the same?

 

 

Cylinder 4 looks very unhappy and cylinder 2 is only slightly better.

I know it's not easy, but I'd swap injector 1 and 4 over and see if the difference moves over.

43 minutes ago, unofix said:

Cylinder 4 looks very unhappy and cylinder 2 is only slightly better.

I know it's not easy, but I'd swap injector 1 and 4 over and see if the difference moves over.

I can swap them quickly enough but I thought a higher reading meant that it was contributing more to compensate for the others? Must admit I don’t really understand Forscan too well yet. Quite new to all of this. 

12 hours ago, unofix said:

Cylinder 4 looks very unhappy and cylinder 2 is only slightly better.

I know it's not easy, but I'd swap injector 1 and 4 over and see if the difference moves over.

You were right (again) 🙂

I had a spare injector and swapped it with Cylinder 4. 

Sounds and runs a whole lot better already. I think this must have been the source of the misfiring. Now just to replace Injector no.2 I think.

I have read every post on this thread, haven't understood a single word, however, it has been very exciting seeing you both heading towards such a positive conclusion! Kinda like watching a good murder/mystery, and watching a couple of talented detectives weed out the culprit. Keep it up guys, I'm hooked! 🤣

56 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

I have read every post on this thread, haven't understood a single word, however, it has been very exciting seeing you both heading towards such a positive conclusion! Kinda like watching a good murder/mystery, and watching a couple of talented detectives weed out the culprit. Keep it up guys, I'm hooked! 🤣

The moral of the story is ‘don’t buy a cheap £600 Ford that requires a load of work unless you have a heart like a lion and never ending supply of tenacity.’ 
 

But I can see light at the end of the tunnel now. New ignition switch arriving today which should solve yet another previously unmentioned problem and hopefully the final injector by Friday. 
MOT tomorrow which will no doubt cause more pain. 

Update:

MOT was aborted after 30 seconds today and I was called to come back and collect the car. This was a result of a ton of white smoke billowing from the exhaust. I hadn't really noticed this but clearly after my top end rebuild, the injectors are causing some grief and must be flooding the cylinders with fuel which isn't being burnt!

I checked the Cyl_Bal when I got home and this was the picture:

So I took the injector I removed from 4 yesterday and took it to bits and cleaned it, checked the spray pattern and fitted into cylinder 2.

No change with the white smoke and now the picture looks like this:

 

I now officially am stuck. Reached the end of the line, my tether and my tenacity. I am out of my depth and haven;t a clue what is going on and what to do next.

I have another injector landing tomorrow, so I guess I'll stick that one in cylinder 2 and see what happens. I did notice today that if I don't keep the cable tie around the leak off pipe on cylinder 2, then it blows the leakoff pipe out and fires diesel all about. I don't possess a leak off kit so can't do that. I also don't have a cylinder compression kit either, but I don't think this is a problem. The valves looked ok and were sitting nicely when I took the head off.

The MOT guy said he wasn't prepared to do the emissions test with the amount of smoke in case my engine blew up. I nodded meekly and shuffled the car away with my tail between my legs.