I'm making a series of videos about a general restoration of my 2009 1. 6 TDCI but there's not a lot of help around on engine removal and rebuild. Seeing as this is the main thrust of my restoration, here's the first video:
 

 

Doesn't seem to have put the link! Search cookracinguk on youtube, there'll be a series. Here's where it's at right now:


Wondering if anyone has any tips for these DV6 engines.... I'm going to:

Replace injectors, valve stem seals, head chain and tensioner, glow plugs, gaskets, clutch and slave cylinder, engine mounts, cambelt / waterpump, possibly camshaft / crankshaft seals.

Anything else I really ought to do while I'm here? Also, any recommendations for gasket kits? I really need to get that right! There's a few options and thicknesses. 

Episodes 2 and 3 out now, been a while...! Head came out, might be of interest...
 

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Episode 4 - camshafts and cover

https://youtu.be/ThQZsJP6m4g

Right! So here's the state of play right now.
 

Now. I know it's not great but honestly it sounded like a bag of nails when I first got it started!! The timing was possibly 1 tooth out.

I've also replaced:
Injector leakoff seals
Vacuum pump seals (HOW MUCH!?!?!?!)
Fresh oil (but not filter yet, see below)
New injectors (and recoded on the ECU with Forscan) and all the seals
Camshaft seal
Valve stem seals
Rocker cover gasket
Water pump & gasket
Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley
Aux belt and idler
Engine and gearbox mounts
EGR gasket
Water gasket (the rectangle one)
Fresh red coolant
Rocker cover connected t pipe rubber ring to airbox hose

SO next steps, the oil filter is that's 2 years old but done no miles - I will replace, use oil flush then replace again with fresh oil. Fuel filter was new about two years ago, barely any miles. I think the exhaust isn't quite tight to the cat down pipe (no gasket for that...?), I think exhaust fumes are leaking from there. 

New fuel pipe for 2 of the cylinders is coming - I'm worried that bending the pipes back as I did is restricting fuel flow, next month I'll order the other pair.

I also need to do a compression test just to rule anything nefarious out, as I had the head on my living room table at one point....

My question is, am I missing something? Very smokey, acrid smell, and rocky idle. Hesitant when you blip the throttle too.

Cheers!
 

Major update! Clearly we're on the right track here...

So, before I get too excited I'll swap two injectors and see if the problem moves to the new cylinder. If it doesn't, then the cylinder is the problem 😞 

 

Very happy 🙂

 

Oh.... changed the injector, runs no different. I can even unplug two injectors (1 and 2 cylinders) when the engine is warm, no change... rev it and you get loads of white / grey acrid smoke!

What the hell???? Head off after all...?

I haven't watched all of the videos.  Was it running when you got it?  Seems like a lot of work to end up in a worse position.  

If it's running that badly there should be some decent codes on Forscan.

Have you done the compression test yet?  Are you sure the timing is correct this time?

It was running yes, took it apart so head off, stem seals etc. I wanted to give it a good refresh. Forscan shows no codes at all, I don't gave a diesel tester I might just have to get one. Yep timing is good.

1 hour ago, welshie_miles said:

It was running yes, took it apart so head off, stem seals etc. I wanted to give it a good refresh. Forscan shows no codes at all, I don't gave a diesel tester I might just have to get one. Yep timing is good.

If it ain't broke...  

I'd definitely feel more comfortable knowing the compression was good before going any further.  Diesel should burn easily in a warm engine, the fact you're getting unburnt diesel (white, acrid smoke) and an awful idle suggests there's either not enough compression to complete the ignition, or it's being injected too late in the stroke, or there's way too much fuel ending up in the cylinder.

New injectors should reduce the chance of massive excess diesel in the cylinder.  Although I'd probably try unplugging the MAF to see if it runs any better without an air intake input.  If the compression is good, I'd move onto injection timing.  Perhaps the crank wheel is damaged, so the sensor isn't reading TDC correctly.

Tried unplugging MAF, no change. You are right - the inevitable truth is it needs a compression test, so will get a diesel kit. At least I'll know when I (probably) have to rebuild the head it's all good.

The reason for taking the head off (I've had this car since new, went to one of the first MK7 Fiesta meets from here in 2009!) was a snapped glow plug, and the chance to give it a good head service (valve stem seals), timing belt, clutch etc so made sense to get the engine out.

I'll video the results, should be interesting to see the damage at least...

Next in the series. This takes us up to the head rebuild, I've still got loads more footage I need to turn into videos! I do have the Diesel compression tester now. looks like I can use the injector adapter. Had a though, if I've broken the rockers and the valves are stuck shut, would that give me a misleading good reading? Or a weak one as there's no new air to compress?
 

 

So it turns out cylinder 2 (2nd from right, Ford label them from the Cars POV) has virtually no compression. The diesel kit I have has a fake injector attachment but I can't secure it. I could try the glow plugs which are a PITA to get to but I don't think there's much point, due to the following.

Holding the injector attachment in place, my assistant cranking, three cylinders got to about 100 psi (loads of air escaping) but number 2 barely registered any movement, and I saw nowhere near as much air.

So.... cam cover off then! 😞 

Here's a really moronic observation from a week or 2 ago: I was looking back through some timing youtube videos and one guy is like, remember to turn the tensioner anti clockwise. I'm thinking huh, pretty sure it works clockwise as well. Of course, there's a flipping arrow to tell you which way to turn, and I've turned it the other way. Even looking at my video and his, there's definitely more tension the correct way.

I'm hoping that the slack belt means it's snapped some rocker covers. If the cam is ok, could just be a case of replace them and do another test.

Episode 6 - bit longer on some details this one, where the head goes back on. Looking back I need better lighting and a closeup of what I'm doing. It was always meant to be an overview but if I was a viewer I'd want to see more detail. Thoughts / feedback welcome.
 

 

Got to the rockers at last, and they are fine.... really frustrating. I have noticed soft hydraulic tappets. Can they cause lack of compression  if they are that bad...?
 

y frustrating.

So I replaced a tappet that wouldn't hold pressure overnight, but this didn't fix the overall rough idle. I also blanked the EGR valve, still not great. Below is the current state. Compression test today...
 

 

More metrics from earlier 

 

 

Any better....?

So I've done some intake cleaning (loads of black sludge came out on a screwdriver!), an oil change, and a new gearbox mount. That helps the idle. But I think a sludge up intake manifold probably doesn't let the engine breathe.

More intake cleaning I think...