Hi, I hope this is the right place to ask this question, please delete if it's not.

I have a Ford Fiesta 2009 1.6 TDCI econetic, where the radiator fan won't spin, causing the P0480 code to come on with an error in the dashboard screen saying "ENGINE MALFUNCTION SERVICE NOW"

I also have codes P2463 and P2455 which as far as I understand, is likely because the DPF can regen itself without a cooling fan.

I can clear the powertrain light (can't clear EML light though), and the car will drive as if nothings wrong until the light eventually comes back.

Here is a photo of the scan result , "IN_CAR TEMPERATURE: 80c" looks suspicious to me? 

After discovering this code (P0480), I have since replaced the fuses, relay, fan and coolant temperature sensor and checked the wiring to ensure that power is definitely getting to the fan.

I have read that it could be caused by an "Air Intake Sensor", I have not tried this yet but plan to get one in the coming days.

At this point I'm at bit of a loss as to what this could be, so I thought I should ask here, of course any help would be much appreciated 🙂

Have you tried another fan?   I read it that you are saying power is definitely getting to the fan, is that right?

On 7/21/2022 at 6:16 PM, isetta said:

Have you tried another fan?   I read it that you are saying power is definitely getting to the fan, is that right?

Yeah, Sorry replacing the fan was one of the first things I did, didn't make a difference. I noticed with the original fan, it spun very briefly before blowing the new fuse. Now with a new fan the fuse is not blowing.

Does your fan cowling have a resistor at the bottom corner?

19 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Does your fan cowling have a resistor at the bottom corner?

I'm not sure what a fan cowling is sorry? From memory the corners of the fan housing was just plastic.

3 minutes ago, suckmikeballs said:

I'm not sure what a fan cowling is sorry? From memory the corners of the fan housing was just plastic.

The fan cowling is just the rectangular plastic 'board' that the fan mounts to.  The resistor is the green cylindrical thing at the bottom corner.  It faces forward so isn't immediately obvious from behind.  (First fan pic I came across, not necessarily identical to yours.)  

On 7/24/2022 at 12:53 PM, TomsFocus said:

The fan cowling is just the rectangular plastic 'board' that the fan mounts to.  The resistor is the green cylindrical thing at the bottom corner.  It faces forward so isn't immediately obvious from behind.  (First fan pic I came across, not necessarily identical to yours.)  

Ahh that's interesting I don't think I had that on mine, but I will check again on both the new and old fans.

I discovered that the fan will actually spin very fast if I disconnect the coolant temperature sensor, which leads me to think that the issue isn't to do with the fan as such. I replaced this sensor afterward which hasn't changed anything.

I discovered a damaged wire connected to the DPF pressure sensor, had this repaired and the P2455 code is now gone, I can't remember if P2463 went away or not, but it brought P244A to light. I tried to do a DPF regen using Forscan and it refuses to as it thinks the DPF is fully clogged.

P0480 still exists but the computer says the light is of for that code.

The fan defaults to high speed as a failsafe if it looses the temp sensor input, unplugging doesn't prove a fault with the sensor.  (Bit late now, I know lol.)

At least we know the fan does work though.

Have you checked the DPF differential pressure to see if it is actually blocked?

 

On 7/28/2022 at 2:22 PM, TomsFocus said:

The fan defaults to high speed as a failsafe if it looses the temp sensor input, unplugging doesn't prove a fault with the sensor.  (Bit late now, I know lol.)

At least we know the fan does work though.

Have you checked the DPF differential pressure to see if it is actually blocked?

 

Yeah proving the fan works was great to see!

I have tried cleaning the DPF pressure sensor which made no difference, I am going to try replacing it since it looks like they're cheap enough on eBay, being that the wiring was damaged it could make sense that the sensor got shorted out and died possibly?. 

I was also thinking of trying Redex DPF cleaner as well to see if that helps clear it out. (and maybe revving the ***** off the engine to get it hot??)

Would I be right in thinking that if neither of those work, then the DPF may actually be fully clogged or damaged, in which case, it's likely not worth spending hundreds on attempting to fix it?

Have you got any diags that can take live readings from the differential pressure sensor?  Forscan etc?  The sensors can and do fail but some readings would really help us out here.

Also, do you know if you have the old Eolys type DPF or the later coated version?  2009 could be either.

I'm not a fan of the fuel additive type DPF cleaners personally.  The ones you spray directly through the temp sensor hole can at least be concentrated in the right area.  But again, I wouldn't bother until we have some pressure readings.

Haven't looked at DV6 DPF prices lately but they were only £100ish when I bought one (in 2014 lol), so not necessarily hundreds of pounds if you can fit yourself.

On 7/30/2022 at 3:37 PM, TomsFocus said:

Have you got any diags that can take live readings from the differential pressure sensor?  Forscan etc?  The sensors can and do fail but some readings would really help us out here.

Also, do you know if you have the old Eolys type DPF or the later coated version?  2009 could be either.

I'm not a fan of the fuel additive type DPF cleaners personally.  The ones you spray directly through the temp sensor hole can at least be concentrated in the right area.  But again, I wouldn't bother until we have some pressure readings.

Haven't looked at DV6 DPF prices lately but they were only £100ish when I bought one (in 2014 lol), so not necessarily hundreds of pounds if you can fit yourself.

I've managed to get a reading from FORScan, I have attached a photo below. 

The reading that states "DP_DPF, kPa: 0.1" Went up to 0.2 when the engine was revved if that is of any relevance. 

I also do not know what type of DPF it I have but I also got a picture of it. 

12 hours ago, suckmikeballs said:

I've managed to get a reading from FORScan, I have attached a photo below. 

The reading that states "DP_DPF, kPa: 0.1" Went up to 0.2 when the engine was revved if that is of any relevance. 

I also do not know what type of DPF it I have but I also got a picture of it. 

0.1kPa is fine for idle.  Even 0.2kPa when revved doesn't suggest 'blocked'.  The best reading is one taken under load while driving, but I appreciate that may not be possible.

If that's your actual DPF, that's a coated one with the second sensor and blue wire.  They very rarely block up.  But it also rules out a lack of Eolys additive causing the fault.

Have you got any fault codes showing at all now?  Does a forced regen still fail?

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

0.1kPa is fine for idle.  Even 0.2kPa when revved doesn't suggest 'blocked'.  The best reading is one taken under load while driving, but I appreciate that may not be possible.

If that's your actual DPF, that's a coated one with the second sensor and blue wire.  They very rarely block up.  But it also rules out a lack of Eolys additive causing the fault.

Have you got any fault codes showing at all now?  Does a forced regen still fail?

It's good to hear those readings are fine, I'd prefer not to drive it until the codes are gone so I can prevent any more or unneeded damage.

The codes are still there and the regen still fails, although I have not replaced the DPF pressure sensor or tried the DPF cleaner as they've not arrived yet, so basically made no changes.

My step dad says the DPF looks like that, I thought he took it off my car but it sounds like he just found a picture online. The car was registered in June 2009 if that makes it easier to narrow down which type of DPF it has at all.

Could the clogging (if it is clogged) have by the fan issue? 

2 hours ago, suckmikeballs said:

It's good to hear those readings are fine, I'd prefer not to drive it until the codes are gone so I can prevent any more or unneeded damage.

The codes are still there and the regen still fails, although I have not replaced the DPF pressure sensor or tried the DPF cleaner as they've not arrived yet, so basically made no changes.

My step dad says the DPF looks like that, I thought he took it off my car but it sounds like he just found a picture online. The car was registered in June 2009 if that makes it easier to narrow down which type of DPF it has at all.

Could the clogging (if it is clogged) have by the fan issue? 

There's little point cleaning the DPF or replacing the sensor with those readings.  They aren't high enough to prevent regen.  Something else must be going on here.  

Cars can be registered many months after being built.  If you PM me your reg, I'll check which type of DPF it has.

Forced regen essentially just revs the engine up to 4k rpm btw, much safer to drive it than let it do that stationary on the drive!  I don't think it'll allow a forced regen until the fan is working. 

(Edit - Just realised this is a 2009 Fiesta, not a 2009 Focus.  I'm pretty sure the Fiestas only used coated DPF's.)

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

There's little point cleaning the DPF or replacing the sensor with those readings.  They aren't high enough to prevent regen.  Something else must be going on here.  

Cars can be registered many months after being built.  If you PM me your reg, I'll check which type of DPF it has.

Forced regen essentially just revs the engine up to 4k rpm btw, much safer to drive it than let it do that stationary on the drive!  I don't think it'll allow a forced regen until the fan is working. 

 

Ahh fair enough, I likely won't bother with doing those things then.

The reg is SB09STX. 

 

It's Interesting you mention it going to 4k rpm, When this issue first started (before I knew the fan was bad) My friend used a diagnostic tablet thing to force a regen, but it just pinned the revs at 1,500 rpm if I recall correctly, after a while it ended with a message stating that the coolant temperature was too high.  It was after that we discovered the fan wasn't spinning and the fuse was blown, We replaced the fuse and it blew again immediately. The fuses do not blow with the replacement fan, but I have only seen it spin when I disconnected the coolant temperature sensor cable.

Forscan still sees the P0480 code but it mentions that the EML light is not on for that code.

 

Thanks for reg.  I edited above as I'm pretty sure all Fiestas used coated DPF.  Have just confirmed it though.

 

Forced regen process might be different on the cDPF.  I've only had to do them on the old Eolys type.

However if it canceled because of the coolant temp being too high that's definitely the fault to fix first.  Are you sure the P0480 fault has actually been cleared?  I think it may just be sticking from before.  

15 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Thanks for reg.  I edited above as I'm pretty sure all Fiestas used coated DPF.  Have just confirmed it though.

 

Forced regen process might be different on the cDPF.  I've only had to do them on the old Eolys type.

However if it canceled because of the coolant temp being too high that's definitely the fault to fix first.  Are you sure the P0480 fault has actually been cleared?  I think it may just be sticking from before.  

I clicked Clear DTCS and followed the instructions but that's never changed anything, the codes have never went away. Not sure if I've been doing this wrong? Clearing the codes at least appears to work with forscan, but my cheap code reader fails to clear them.

That was what happened the first time a few weeks ago, If I try to do a regen with Forscan it refuses to start it at all as it believes the DPF is full. 

Not necessarily wrong, but it does sound like they're not being cleared.  Some codes are a pain to clear, no one seems to know why!  Sometimes you need to drive a bit, then try and clear them again.  There was a trick on the Focus to create an extra code by unplugging the MAF, and then all codes could be cleared together.  Not sure if that works on the Fiesta.

It's a difficult situation with the forced regen.  The proper solution is to reset the DPF learned values...but that must only be done with a clean/new DPF.  It won't regen properly if you reset the values now with a partially full DPF.

Honestly, I'd suggest taking out for a short drive, just 5 minutes or so.  Record live pressure data so we can see where that peaks.  (To confirm how full the DPF might be.) Then try to clear codes again after a drive and see if they clear or not.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Not necessarily wrong, but it does sound like they're not being cleared.  Some codes are a pain to clear, no one seems to know why!  Sometimes you need to drive a bit, then try and clear them again.  There was a trick on the Focus to create an extra code by unplugging the MAF, and then all codes could be cleared together.  Not sure if that works on the Fiesta.

It's a difficult situation with the forced regen.  The proper solution is to reset the DPF learned values...but that must only be done with a clean/new DPF.  It won't regen properly if you reset the values now with a partially full DPF.

Honestly, I'd suggest taking out for a short drive, just 5 minutes or so.  Record live pressure data so we can see where that peaks.  (To confirm how full the DPF might be.) Then try to clear codes again after a drive and see if they clear or not.

Alright, I'll try and get the car all buttoned back up over the next few days and take it for a drive and report back with the live pressure data. 

I will also try unplugging the MAF to see if that works. 

Thanks for your help so far though, I really appreciate it! 🙂

2010 1.25 petrol...I had a similar issue a while back where the cooling fan would only come on at the max temp warning light on the dash. Aircon worked fine but the fan didn't spin. The fault was a corroded connector on the bottom of the fan unit and a combination of a bodge fix from the previous owner. £60 for the replacement and labour later fixed the issue. 

 

On a unrelated issue of engine bogging down, poor start/hunting, no revs and poor MPG, I cleaned the T-MAP sensor(located down in the middle of the manifold) which fixed the bogging down and MPG massively 

3 hours ago, 59bhp said:

2010 1.25 petrol...I had a similar issue a while back where the cooling fan would only come on at the max temp warning light on the dash. Aircon worked fine but the fan didn't spin. The fault was a corroded connector on the bottom of the fan unit and a combination of a bodge fix from the previous owner. £60 for the replacement and labour later fixed the issue. 

 

On a unrelated issue of engine bogging down, poor start/hunting, no revs and poor MPG, I cleaned the T-MAP sensor(located down in the middle of the manifold) which fixed the bogging down and MPG massively 

That's interesting, I will check the connector for my fan again but I'm sure it was fine. My one doesn't have air con but the cabin cold/hot blower thing has always worked.

 

Sure wish it costed me just £60 haha, I spent that on the fan alone etc. At this point I'm trying to sort it myself as to try and save a few quid (hopefully), Although it seems to be bit of a false economy when I've found my self playing parts darts 😄

On 8/2/2022 at 6:56 PM, TomsFocus said:

Not necessarily wrong, but it does sound like they're not being cleared.  Some codes are a pain to clear, no one seems to know why!  Sometimes you need to drive a bit, then try and clear them again.  There was a trick on the Focus to create an extra code by unplugging the MAF, and then all codes could be cleared together.  Not sure if that works on the Fiesta.

It's a difficult situation with the forced regen.  The proper solution is to reset the DPF learned values...but that must only be done with a clean/new DPF.  It won't regen properly if you reset the values now with a partially full DPF.

Honestly, I'd suggest taking out for a short drive, just 5 minutes or so.  Record live pressure data so we can see where that peaks.  (To confirm how full the DPF might be.) Then try to clear codes again after a drive and see if they clear or not.

Hi, I just thought I'd mention in case anyone else finds this thread on Google etc, that I have since put the new DPF pressure sensor in, sprayed a can of DPF cleaner in the DPF pressure sensor hose and drove the car hard for around 30 miles and now the EML and Powertrain light is off. The P0480 code is still showing up in Forscan however I'd assume it's working if the cars not overheating. 

 

So as it stands, I think it **might** be fixed! 😄