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Eco boost engine required

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Hi Everyone

Ok I have a 2016 fiesta with the common loss of oil pressure it has a YYJB 1C engine which I just cant seem to find there's plenty of MOJB engines but not sure they will fit any advice would be grateful or if you have an engine at a reasonable price i would be very grateful I'm in Northampton 

 



MOJB won't fit.  That's the later 1.0 engine with chain driven cam and the turbo at the back, totally different to yours.

YYJB is the 140ps version, so will be quite difficult to find.  They used a different headgasket to the 100/125ps engines for a higher compression ratio.  So really you do need to find another 140ps engine to replace it with.

27 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

YYJB is the 140ps version, so will be quite difficult to find

Could Clive fit a 100 or 125 engine if they're easier to find and just put up with a slight power reduction?

Or would it have other compatibility issues?

21 minutes ago, alanfp said:

Could Clive fit a 100 or 125 engine if they're easier to find and just put up with a slight power reduction?

Or would it have other compatibility issues?

The engine would physically fit.  But he'd still have the 140ps ECU, fuelling for a bigger turbo and a higher compression ratio, so that's where the compatibility issues would occur.

I knew you'd know the answer, Tom 🙂

image.thumb.jpeg.ac5aa082051a3e0c5bab7967ff2e6e9e.jpeg


Only the YYJA and YYJB 140 HP Fiesta MK7.5 1.0 ECOboost engines have a different compression ratio.

The M1DH 140 HP Focus MK3.5 1.0 ECOboost engine is different and has the same compression ratio as the 100 HP and 125 HP versions. 


 

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  • Author

Hi

Thanks to all your comments that does sort a few questions I had  so I will check out the one on engines od but if anyone has one or knows were I could get mine rebuilt I would be very grateful 

  • Author

Merry Xmas everyone 

Pumaspeed, who sell brand new ones direct from Ford maintain that the  engine is exactly the same. Injectors, turbocharger and ECU will be different for the 140. That's it.

It would be interesting to hear from anyone who has fitted one of these Pumaspeed engines in a 140, given that we know the 140 has a thicker head gasket to achieve a slightly lower compression ratio, as shown in the data in Wilco's post above. Presumably it's also stronger.

The difference is very small though - 9.9:1 for the 140 vs 10:1 for the 100/125. And of course the various tuners quote around 153ps for a remap on either the 100 or 125 without making any adjustment to the compression ratio, so you do wonder how much difference it actually makes.

Whatever, as they suggest on their website, I'd certainly contact Pumaspeed to discuss this point in the event I needed to order one.

 

Regarding to Ford there are more differences:
 

Data from Microcat/Ecat for a 2016 Fiesta with 1.0 ECOboost engine:

Bottom end Fiesta 1.0 ECOboost:

100 HP / 125 HP 
Part Number: CM5G-6011-BA

140 HP 1.0
Part Number: E1BG-6011-BA


Head gasket Fiesta 1.0 ECOboost:

100 HP / 125 HP
Part Number: DM5G 6051-AA

140 HP
Part Number: CM5G 6051-LA

 

Focus MK3.5 part numbers for reference:

Bottom end Focus 1.0 ECOboost:

125 HP / 140 HP 
Part Number: E1BG-6011-BA
 

Head gasket Focus 1.0 ECOboost:

100 HP / 125 HP / 140 HP 
Part Number: DM5G-6051-AA

 

This basically means that the 140 HP Fiesta MK7.5 version has the exact same bottom end as a 125 HP / 140 HP Focus MK3.5 version.

The head gasket however is different. The (thicker) head gasket that reduces the compression ratio from 10:1 to 9.9:1 is quite specific for the 140 HP Fiesta MK7.5 version and is not used on any other version of the 1.0 ECOboost.

 

The 100 and 125Hp have a 3 layer head gasket that is 0.8mm thick and the 140Bhp has a 5 layer head gasket that is 1mm thick.

The difference in compression ratio is so small I doubt that the ECU would be an issue. All that would happen is that the ECU would pull and small amount of timing out to stop knock if it were to happen. Another way to look at it is that my car is the 125Bhp ie 10:1 compression ratio is running 22.4 PSI of boost and when I data log is the timing changes depending on inlet temp and quality of fuel to stop knock. 

 

Edited by Eatonm112

I very much doubt if it is running 1 1/2 bar of boost.  That seems a great deal, particularly with 10:1 compression ratio unblown. What a fantastic engine this is: my old SAABs ran about3/4 bar and had a static cr of 7.2! 

I think the Ecoboost runs about half a bar above the 1 bar atmospheric pressure. Please correct me if I am wrong, I would like to know.

That really is a lot of boost. I am surprised. I am equally surprised how seamless it feels in the Fiesta. There are Ecoboosts with well over 100,000 miles on them. I think the ordinary punter who scoffs at them  really doesn't appreciate what a well designed and well made little engine this is.

2 hours ago, anon said:

That really is a lot of boost. I am surprised. I am equally surprised how seamless it feels in the Fiesta. There are Ecoboosts with well over 100,000 miles on them. I think the ordinary punter who scoffs at them  really doesn't appreciate what a well designed and well made little engine this is.

Except for the wet belts!!!!!!!!!!

Proper servicing with the proper oil seems to keep them healthy and to get 100,000 miles on  a single change of plugs, five gallons of oil and five oil filters out of an engine producing up to 140BHP/litre is actually remarkable. If it needs a £1500 refresh at that point, it has earned it! As a new engine costs less than £2K it seems to be a consumable item. I think the cost of the torque multiplier prevents a lot of engines from being given a routine belt change which would be much cheaper were this a readily hireable tool.

A look at the youtube videos of people doing this job shows it not to be too difficult. It is a lot of work but you need little more tha £200 of tools to do the job. I think I would like to see if the sump could be removed in situ so that it could be machined to fit an inspection port for the oil pick up. If I were to do the job, I would start from a spare engine and then I could take my time and build the tooling I would need.

1 hour ago, anon said:

A look at the youtube videos of people doing this job shows it not to be too difficult. It is a lot of work but you need little more tha £200 of tools to do the job. I think I would like to see if the sump could be removed in situ so that it could be machined to fit an inspection port for the oil pick up. If I were to do the job, I would start from a spare engine and then I could take my time and build the tooling I would need.

The sump can be removed in situ but requires removal and lowering of the exhaust system from the Turbo (to give sufficient clearance). Entails removal of the upstream Lamda sensor, turbo heat shield (bolts), cat front heatshield (bolts), down pipe exhaust system bracket (two studs/nuts) and first exhaust mounting (two rusty nuts/bolts).

Personally I wouldn't bother with an inspection port. One could be positioned directly under the pump oil pick-up, but in practice it would be very difficult to clear properly if it were blocked (fine gauze mesh) and finding any debris there would just mean that the belt was failing anyway.

It isnt a matter of clearing it, more one of checking it before the debris kills the engine.

If the engine gets the right oil and filters, it should be OK but if you don't know the history it is a gamble.  Checking it at every oil change should be enough to save the engine, so why not?

 

I actually recommend to have the oil analyzed periodically (for example once every 2 Years).

An oil analysis is quite cheap (I paid €75,- for a full analysis + report) and will tell you exactly what the condition of the wetbelts is.

I've wondered before whether anyone has ever tried to check the mesh of the oil pickup using a borescope through the sump oil drain ? I've used one before at a previous employer to inspect the inside of a turbine engine without taking it apart. Whether it would work for the Fiesta sump I don't know. I guess it depends how much space there is between the bottom of the sump and the oil pickup mesh.

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