Hi everyone!

So basically when I’m sat at traffic lights for a prolonged amount of time with my foot on the clutch and in first gear, I can start to feel my car dropping revs like I’m trying to find the biting point and as soon as it starts doing this, I can’t get my car out of gear!

Ive just took it to a garage and they said its hard to diagnose as it’s early stages and they also said it needs to get worse before they can look at it, but it could either by the master or the slave cylinder. It may sound stupid, but how do I get a garage to look at it now as to be honest, it could be either one or the two and I don’t want it to get worse.

is there a way of narrowing it down between either the master or slave cylinder?

Thank you 

On balance of probability it's most likely the slave cylinder leaking fluid back to the master cylinder. But it's an expensive guess if it's wrong as the gearbox needs to come off to access it. For the time being don't sit with your foot on the clutch and in gear. It's bad practice anyway and wears out the clutch release bearing. If you eventually have the slave cylinder changed make sure to put on a new clutch assembly and release bearing while it's all apart.

Thank you! Since I’ve found out about the clutch, I stick it in neutral now at lights as like you said, it’s bad practise and I’m only going to make it worse.

24 minutes ago, SteTudor97 said:

Thank you! Since I’ve found out about the clutch, I stick it in neutral now at lights as like you said, it’s bad practise and I’m only going to make it worse.

If you decide to fix this job yourself then I recently posted a guide for replacing the clutch & slave cylinder

It is failing and will fail completely soon. Prepare to have the wallet pulling tool used on you.

7 minutes ago, anon said:

It is failing and will fail completely soon. Prepare to have the wallet pulling tool used on you.

How much is a competent garage going to charge for this job? Minus the 3 piece clutch kit & 2.3L of transmission fluid ofc 

I dread to think. I'd be breaking out the tools but I appreciate that not everybody has the time, tools or tuition. I doubt very much if it comes in under £600.

23 minutes ago, anon said:

I dread to think. I'd be breaking out the tools but I appreciate that not everybody has the time, tools or tuition. I doubt very much if it comes in under £600.

Wow that’s all in with parts & fluid right?

I just replaced mine the other day. I paid £50 for transmission fluid & £120 for a 3 piece genuine LUK clutch kit from autodoc. About another £30 on brake fluid, brake cleaner etc etc. Surely it cannot be £400 worth of labor? 

Just now, CursedBones said:

Surely it cannot be £430 worth of labour?

Main Ford dealer £120 per hour.

3.5 hour job would bring that in at £420 which will be exactly what Ford would charge + parts

Which will make it nearer to £800 as the parts will be more expensive than Autodoc. A new clutch rather than a recon (Which is what a LUK is) and Ford consumable prices.

I must admit I'm surprised that it is only a 3 1/2 hour job.

51 minutes ago, anon said:

Which will make it nearer to £800 as the parts will be more expensive than Autodoc. A new clutch rather than a recon (Which is what a LUK is) and Ford consumable prices.

I didn’t know that they were recons. I have both LUK master & slave have I made a mistake?

51 minutes ago, anon said:

I must admit I'm surprised that it is only a 3 1/2 hour job.

It sure took me longer lol 

LUK are remanufactured clutches and I reckon a clutch if done on my own without a ramp would be a weekend's work unless there is a lot of room to slide the box back. I usually make up long studs to hang the box on if I can and fit them as I take the bellhousing bolts out. It makes lining the clutch up much easier if you can have another 3 or 4 inches you can slide it back. LUK are well known and I have not heard any horror stories. Most of a clutch can be recycled without harm, in olden times, Ford would sell recon bits from starter motors through to bumpers. Wish they still did.

6 minutes ago, anon said:

LUK are remanufactured clutches and I reckon a clutch if done on my own without a ramp would be a weekend's work unless there is a lot of room to slide the box back. I usually make up long studs to hang the box on if I can and fit them as I take the bellhousing bolts out. It makes lining the clutch up much easier if you can have another 3 or 4 inches you can slide it back.

You need to pull both driveshafts so no ramps I’m afraid. You’d need to do axle stands.

I found it a massive pain to lift the gearbox back in as I wasn’t strong enough from that awkward position. I ended up lifting it with 2 ropes coming from under it at all 4 corners. I secured these ropes to a length of steel tube over the engine bay.

I then put towels under either end of the tube. Attached a pair of mole grips for a handle and then I turned the bar until the ropes pulled the box up into position. My father then held the bar to stop it from unwinding whilst I secured the box in position

I was speaking of a garage style ramp. I know the drivshafts need to come out. Lost count of the FWD boxes I have done over the years. I did a five speed conversion for my 128 and it took so long to find one bug that I could change a clutch in fifty minutes!  If I couldn't outrig the box, I would use the trolley jack to support the weight and get the height right then walk the box in on that.

23 minutes ago, anon said:

I was speaking of a garage style ramp. I know the drivshafts need to come out. Lost count of the FWD boxes I have done over the years. I did a five speed conversion for my 128 and it took so long to find one bug that I could change a clutch in fifty minutes!  If I couldn't outrig the box, I would use the trolley jack to support the weight and get the height right then walk the box in on that.

Oh my bad I get you now!

I did try the trolley back but it kept falling off and I figured I was going to end up braking it.

I make up a plate of 8 mm plywood that pegs into the top of the jack so it doesn't roll about.

5 minutes ago, anon said:

I make up a plate of 8 mm plywood that pegs into the top of the jack so it doesn't roll about.

Yeah I will make something like that if there is a next time!