hazbaz1984 Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 My coolant level has been dropping. Along with a sweet smell of coolant in the engine bay when it’s hot. Opened the oil filler and there’s thick mayo on the cap, and some in the filler neck. Also, a touch on the end of the dipstick when cold. Now, I know this might be the head gasket/head/block….. but is there anything else that could be allowing some coolant into the engine? I will be checking the thermostat housing, replacing it and the thermostat. It needs a new valve cover gasket so I will be popping the cover off for inspection. I may also change out the freeze plugs in the valley for good measure. What other things should I check that might be allowing coolant to dribble into the oil slowly? I will compression test the engine. And do an exhaust gas test on the coolant reservoir. And of course change the oil and filter, and coolant. But want to try and solve the issue prior to doing this if possible. Are these 1.4s prone to head gasket failure or cracking heads/blocks? The car has been regularly and well maintained throughout its life. It doesn’t overheat. It’s not misfiring or throwing out steam/water from the exhaust. It’s not been thrashed either as far as I can tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 Almost certainly headgasket on this engine. I wouldn't waste money changing anything else first. On other engines, there is an oil cooler that can allow oil & coolant to mix if it fails, but there isn't one on this engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted April 25 Author Share Posted April 25 2 hours ago, TomsFocus said: Almost certainly headgasket on this engine. I wouldn't waste money changing anything else first. On other engines, there is an oil cooler that can allow oil & coolant to mix if it fails, but there isn't one on this engine. Bummer. Is this common on these engines? It’s done 116k. Seems low for such a catastrophic failure to occur. Cant find that many posts re head gasket failures on these 1.4 engines. And nowt on the wider internet So you reckon it’s salvageable? I’m happy to do the work myself. It’s a big step up in terms of DIY’ing, but if I’m methodical and take my time, I reckon I could do it. Or would it be better just to buy a lower mileage engine from a salvager and just drop it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 It's not common on these but does happen. Mileage isn't really relevant, my mates 1.4 blew at about 90k, and that was 7 years ago now. As long as it hadn't overheated I'd be inclined to remove the head to assess the damage. As long as the block & head are still ok, I'd just change the gasket. If there's considerable damage to block or head then it'll be quicker and cheaper just to dump a used engine in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted April 25 Author Share Posted April 25 So, what other maintenance should I plan for if I’m doing the head gasket? My list is developing as follows - Check valve clearances and buy new shims New water pump, thermostat and housing. New timing belt and tensioner. New core plugs What else should I consider doing when the head is off and the bottom end is more accessible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 List looks good to me. Main thing is the new timing belt along with head-gasket set. Would urge caution with the core plugs, if they're not leaking currently, trying to replace them can cause more issues. Bottom end isn't really much more accessible but if you've got any oil leaks from the sump or the crank seal then it does make sense to sort those at the same time. You may need new aux belt(s) as they're stretch fit and don't like being removed and refitted once they get a bit old and crispy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 2 hours ago, TomsFocus said: List looks good to me. Main thing is the new timing belt along with head-gasket set. Would urge caution with the core plugs, if they're not leaking currently, trying to replace them can cause more issues. Bottom end isn't really much more accessible but if you've got any oil leaks from the sump or the crank seal then it does make sense to sort those at the same time. You may need new aux belt(s) as they're stretch fit and don't like being removed and refitted once they get a bit old and crispy. It had a timing belt at 85k. But as it will all be coming off, makes sense to replace it all. Yeah, I will assess the plugs when I get there. Also makes sense to remove and clean the sump, and put a new gasket on. Will probably just buy a full engine gasket set and do as much as I can. I actually have both new aux belts in the boot. As I don’t think the originals were ever changed. Been on the job list for a while. This was the motivation I needed to get it done I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 Any recommendations for decent head gasket brand? Don’t want to be doing this job twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 32 minutes ago, hazbaz1984 said: Any recommendations for decent head gasket brand? Don’t want to be doing this job twice. The FAI kit should be fine. Comes with a 5 year warranty. (Although that warranty could be void by incorrect fitting.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted May 7 Author Share Posted May 7 Top end of the engine looks very clean for head gasket failure. No mayo except at the very top of the valve cover in the oil filler cap/neck, one of the cover bolts had a bit on and the evap hose had a bit in…. oil looked clean and black. It was run to temp and then slightly cooled before draining. Not milky at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 I don't get it... The first post suggested there was thick mayo everywhere, now there isn't any anywhere? A little mayo on the cap is perfectly normal for short journeys. The cap is the coldest part so that's where water vapour condenses when the engine doesn't get hot enough to burn it off. I would say STOP now and re-assess what the exact fault symptoms are before going any further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted May 7 Author Share Posted May 7 1 hour ago, TomsFocus said: I don't get it... The first post suggested there was thick mayo everywhere, now there isn't any anywhere? A little mayo on the cap is perfectly normal for short journeys. The cap is the coldest part so that's where water vapour condenses when the engine doesn't get hot enough to burn it off. I would say STOP now and re-assess what the exact fault symptoms are before going any further. Ok…. It is highly likely it’s from short journeys and after working on the car running it up but stopping short of running temps. It was quite a lot of mayo in the cap…. Not the usual trickle of condensation. But ah well. I needed to do the valve cover gasket anyway. So it was a good opportunity to have a look round. Relieved to see it’s not an explosion of creamy goo on the inside. I am going to have a look at the thermostat housing, as I have a feeling that’s where I’m losing coolant. No other leaks in the cooling system that I can see. I’m doing new aux belts anyway, so it’s not a stretch to remove the alternator and have a look. Don't worry. The head is not coming off until I’m 100% that’s what’s needed. I don’t need that in my life right now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted May 27 Author Share Posted May 27 Compression test results Mk6 Fiesta 1.4 Petrol. 117k miles. Engine warm (op temp). Laser tester with 14mm extension bar. All cylinders tested between 90-95 PSI with throttle closed. With throttle fully open: 1 = 220 2 = 205 3= 220 4 = 225 Looks pretty healthy. No massive variances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 If anything that looks high for this engine. I'd be expecting more like 160-180. Sure that gauge is accurate? Though even if the numbers aren't correct, at least they're all fairly even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazbaz1984 Posted May 27 Author Share Posted May 27 It’s a laser gauge. Seems to be pretty accurate. Who knows. But yeah. Those open throttle readings are sky high. But they are what they are. And as you say, at least they are consistent. Could be carbon build up in the engine perhaps. But that doesn’t concern me too much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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