Hello folks,

 

My partners car has gone in for an MOT and been advised on discs and pads (not bad for six years). Call me stubborn but £600 for the work is a bit high and I reckon with a few hours work I could give it a go. 
 

Does anyone have any recommendations on which tools I’d be wise getting, from your experience? Also if you’d bother with genuine Ford parts at a £40 overall premium, or just get whatever ECP/SCC have in stock?

It’s a 2018 1.0L Ecoboost Mk8

Cheers!

Edited April 3, 20242 yr by Buxty

If it's just an advisory they may not need replacing yet.

Personally, if there's only a £40 premium for the full set of genuine pads & discs, I'd go with them.  Otherwise I'm a fan of Pagid.

Only basic tools required.  If you've got a set of spanners that's pretty much it.

You will need some way to push the piston back in.  You can buy proper tools for that, but I generally just put a small pry bar between the old inner pad & disc to lever the piston back in.  May crack out the G clamp if that doesn't work...  (For rear calipers, they must be wound back in due to handbrake mech, but fronts just push straight back)

14 minutes ago, Buxty said:

Also if you’d bother with genuine Ford parts at a £40 overall premium

Personally if I could get the genuine Ford disks and pads for only £40 more than Motor Factor parts then I'd pay the extra.

No special tools needed, just a regular socket set and perhaps a 7mm Allen key, but that might not be something that is needed on your brake calipers.

I really do need to start typing faster.

Once again Tom you beat me to the punch line 🤣

Awesome, appreciate that gents! I'll go for the genuine article in that case when the time comes and will double check how much they are worn in case it was the tester being attentive. 

5 hours ago, Buxty said:

Does anyone have any recommendations on which tools I’d be wise getting, from your experience? Also if you’d bother with genuine Ford parts at a £40 overall premium, or just get whatever ECP/SCC have in stock?

600 GBP just for the labour?  Don't ever take your car to that garage again.

As above, if the rear calipers need the pistons winding back in, (rather than simply pushing back in, as the fronts do), you do need a special tool for that, but it's a few 10s of pounds. BE AWARE that the two sides probably wind-in in opposite directions!!

Don't forget to push the calipers back in immediately after removing the old pads, with the calipers and old discs still bolted on the car, just in case you damage the disc if using a pry bar etc etc.

Be very careful not to damage the rubber 'boot' or sleeve that sits around the piston - this needs to fold back on itself again as it goes back in.... you'll see what I mean when you take the old pads out.

To replace the brake discs, you need to remove the calipers, which isn't difficult, but because of this you will need a torque wrench, so that you retighten the caliper bolts to the correct value.  Very important.

As you push the pistons back in, you will need to suck out the excess brake fluid that will flow back into the master cylinder, so don't forget to buy a syringe etc for that.

As to 'Ford' parts, I don't think they make brake consumables.... they don't usually make any of the brake system - so it'll be someone else's rebranded product.  I would put my registration number into Autodoc, and see what manufacturer names are offered.  Autodoc is usually cheaper than ECP/cp4l/GSF.  If you get Brembo come up, I would choose them - they are almost certainly significantly better quality and probably be cheaper than anything with a Ford label on the box.

17 hours ago, orangecurry said:

600 GBP just for the labour?  Don't ever take your car to that garage again.

As above, if the rear calipers need the pistons winding back in, (rather than simply pushing back in, as the fronts do), you do need a special tool for that, but it's a few 10s of pounds. BE AWARE that the two sides probably wind-in in opposite directions!!

Don't forget to push the calipers back in immediately after removing the old pads, with the calipers and old discs still bolted on the car, just in case you damage the disc if using a pry bar etc etc.

Be very careful not to damage the rubber 'boot' or sleeve that sits around the piston - this needs to fold back on itself again as it goes back in.... you'll see what I mean when you take the old pads out.

To replace the brake discs, you need to remove the calipers, which isn't difficult, but because of this you will need a torque wrench, so that you retighten the caliper bolts to the correct value.  Very important.

As you push the pistons back in, you will need to suck out the excess brake fluid that will flow back into the master cylinder, so don't forget to buy a syringe etc for that.

As to 'Ford' parts, I don't think they make brake consumables.... they don't usually make any of the brake system - so it'll be someone else's rebranded product.  I would put my registration number into Autodoc, and see what manufacturer names are offered.  Autodoc is usually cheaper than ECP/cp4l/GSF.  If you get Brembo come up, I would choose them - they are almost certainly significantly better quality and probably be cheaper than anything with a Ford label on the box.

Thanks for the advice! £600 was parts and labour but checking some YouTube vids it seems like something to keep my honest on a Sunday! 

....you are welcome - and I'm only replying here just to correct something I wrote above:

Don't forget to push the pistons back in immediately after removing the old pads, with the calipers and old discs still bolted on the car, just in case you damage the disc if using a pry bar etc etc.

If your car has rear brake drums instead of disks, they can be a little  more difficult,  not necessarily harder to do , just tricky (fiddly) with retaining springs etc.

Apologies I've just noticed it is a ST-3 , no brake drums , ignore my post 🤣

Remove the brake master cylinder cap because when you push the pistons back in you are pushing the hydraulic fluid back up the system and it needs more room. The pistons will push in easier if you loosen the nipples .

The drum shoes won't need changing yet if it is a drum model.  They should do 10 years easily.

Regarding brake fluid, you will get differing opinions on this part.  Personally I don't like to open the nipples for a pad change, as they're so easy to snap off, especially in cold weather and on the older cars that I was generally working on.  It is up to you whether you loosen them or not.

If you don't loosen them, then do remove the brake fluid cap, however, there shouldn't be any excess fluid in there unless you've topped it up at any point.  The brake fluid level drops as the pads wear down.  So as long as it hasn't been topped up in the meantime, shouldn't overflow the container when you push the piston back.

On 4/3/2024 at 6:04 PM, orangecurry said:

As above, if the rear calipers need the pistons winding back in, (rather than simply pushing back in, as the fronts do), you do need a special tool for that, but it's a few 10s of pounds. BE AWARE that the two sides probably wind-in in opposite directions!!

As to 'Ford' parts, I don't think they make brake consumables.... they don't usually make any of the brake system - so it'll be someone else's rebranded product.  I would put my registration number into Autodoc, and see what manufacturer names are offered.  Autodoc is usually cheaper than ECP/cp4l/GSF.  If you get Brembo come up, I would choose them - they are almost certainly significantly better quality and probably be cheaper than anything with a Ford label on the box.

I had to buy a brake rewind kit as the tool I used on my previous cars wouldn't fit. It's made by 'Hilka' and was about £30 from a local car factor. They are normally double the price for other makes (even more if you go to Halfrauds!)  The only other tool which is needed is a 7mm allen/hex key or even better a socket. I've got on, but can't remember where I bought/acquired it from. You can torque it up with a socket. 

I always say never skimp on brakes, it what stops you! So always buy a well known make. The same advice for tyre choice too. I've used Mintex and Ferrodo in the past and currently use EBC stuff on all our cars. I'd certainly consider Pagid and Brembo too. 

The missus has decided that nows the time to get em done, glad she waited for better weather 😆

 

Would anyone know if these are correct for a 2018 ST-Line Mk8?

Front Discs: 2272661

Front Pads: 2458760

Rear Discs: 2096336

Rear Pads: 2426545

 

Im questioning my prior research as from Ford themselves on eBay with a code it’s £291 but from my local Hendy they want £519 which is mad markup??

3 minutes ago, Buxty said:

Would anyone know if these are correct for a 2018 ST-Line Mk8?

Front Discs: 2272661

Those are 278mm - ST size.  I would expect ST-Line to be the smaller size but can't access Mk8 parts catalogues to confirm.

8 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Those are 278mm - ST size.  I would expect ST-Line to be the smaller size but can't access Mk8 parts catalogues to confirm.

Cheers Tom, saved me a headache in any case! 
 

Update: I think fronts might be 2095058 at 262mm, but May dust off my polite voice and call more dealers to check 

Edited May 31, 20242 yr by Buxty
More detective work

In the interests of helping future us, here’s what a more helpful local dealer said:

 

• Front Discs: 2095058 (262mm)
• Front Pads: 2458760
• Rear Discs: 2096336 (253mm)
• Rear Pads: 2426545 OR 2458764 (Motorcraft)

 

Have you got ANY hands-on experience?  Dunno if there's any youtube vids to help you, but there's so many potential  gotchas, and IF you're changing the discs aswell, you'll need a torque wrench to safely retighten the caliper frame bolts to the correct torque. Also, I'd advise you NOT to use the usual 12-point sockets that sadly all socket sets come with, invest in a set of 6-sided sockets, as really tight fixings are likely to round off in older cars. It's ok for others on here to tell you to wind back the pistons, but that's ok on old cars, the fluid will get forced back into the master cylinder and is known to flip the seals. What you really need to do before forcing back the pistons, is to clamp the flexible brake pipe (with a special brake pipe clamp) and slacken off the bleed nipple. So that when you push back the piston, the brake fluid is expelled rather than forced back into the system. This is really important as you've got abs too. Also I would  advise you to buy a brake nipple spanner too. Once you've done the job, you will most probably need to bleed the brakes, so a bleed kit plus fluid might also be needed. 

Have you got any calipers so you can measure how much wear you've got left on the disks? The min thickness is usually stamped on the disk, or some helpful member here might have the info to give you. If you need to measure the  existing disks thickness, you'll find that there is a unworn lip on the edge of the disk you'll have to grind off in order to put the measuring calipers on to determine the remaining thickness... unless, of course you just go ahead and replace 'em anyway. I recommend you to use threadlock on the caliper frame bolts and caliper bolts too. If when you remove these bolts there is remnants of old threadlock, try removing it with a rotary wire brush, tho' new caliper bolts often come with pads, they do /did with Brembo pads from  ECP, not sure with Motorcraft ones. 

There's a lot more to this job than you realise, and you really MUST torque up the caliper frame bolts if you need to remove them to change the disks.  Oh yes you need to buy brake cleaner or carb cleaner or some sort of degreaser to clean off the protective film on the new disks before you fit them. 

Hopefully I've not left too much out,  and hopefully other forum members will add to this reply. Have you got axle stands? Don't rely on the jack provided, and investigate where the jacking points are. Phew! If you're a complete novice, and it's NOT your own car, I'd say see if there's a mobile mechanic around who'll do the job if you provide the parts.Its usual, too, to put copper grease on the backs of the pads where the caliper contacts them.... NOT, I must add, on the FRONTS of the pads! in order to prevent brake squeal..... Any Qq! 's just ask, and good luck and let us know how you get on! 

👍

Anybody got a picture of the rewind tool  (mk8 ) connector so that I dont have to buy a kit

thanks steve

I'm not sure if you can buy the exact tool. A kit might be better if you own other cars or when you change your car and rear brake need changing. It can be helpfully for pushing front calliper pistons in too. 

This is what I bought a few years ago from a local motor factors. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-brake-rewind-tool-kit-20-pieces/9796r

I have seen this set at tool stalls at steam/country shows which looks very similar, and is cheaper too.   https://www.amazon.co.uk/US-PRO-Universal-Piston-Caliper/dp/B07KZZG3WQ/ref=asc_df_B07KZZG3WQ?mcid=04a67fce05ff3eca8fe3ad35cf33dacc&th=1&psc=1&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=697277611174&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16895352343302713780&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9190903&hvtargid=pla-815257811898&psc=1&hvocijid=16895352343302713780-B07KZZG3WQ-&hvexpln=0&gad_source=1

Doesn't the mark 8 need a laptop to bleed its brakes?

17 hours ago, anon said:

Doesn't the mark 8 need a laptop to bleed its brakes?

I don't think so, unless you get air into the ABS pump. I think then you plug it in and set the pump to manually run. I have never needed to do it on any of the cars I've worked on. Normally you bleed it through nipples on callipers, either pressurising the system or an assistant press the pedal. 

All Fiestas have a manual handbrake, so you don't need a computer to rewind them, unlike some cars.

 

Thanks for the replies but ive chickened out and taken it to the local garage..

 

ps does anybody know if the Hilka single device fits?

I bet you'll spend more at the garage than you will buying a tool (or universal kit). It is a quite easy job to do. However if you are not confident in doing it yourself, it's better to let someone else do it for you. Brakes are a safety critical item.

I have no idea if a Hilka single tool fits. The one I had was made by Laser tools and didn't fit. As mentioned in my first post in this thread you will need a 7mm allen key or preferably a socket which can be hard to find. This of course is if you change your mind and do want to attempt it yourself.