got the boy his first starter car. she ain't pretty but it'll get the job done. I've resolved many...many issues as the car has been neglected for a long time. the engine runs great and has power, no more nasty power steering leak and the new alternator is on... everything was covered in oil and steering fluid. oil wasn't changed for over 30k per sticker.


One issue I cannot seem to resolve and it may be my lack of understanding. the story goes, someone backed into it in a walmart parking lot and it deployed the passenger seat airbag. I went to the junk yard with an understanding they are interchangeable with a seat that has no airbag as it use a yellow delete end cap. The wires on original seat and scrap yard seat looked exactly the same. It still flashes a 37 code even with battery out for other repairs for a week. I found this: https://airbagcode.com/ford-2000/37 but it does not seem helpful as I see no diagrams or pictures. I' a picture kind of guy...


so,

1 can a non airbag seat work? how do I do that?
2 if not, how can a guy "bypass" just that section of airbag and allow the rest of the system to work?
3 toss the whole thing in a compactor and go watch a movie?
4 do the two prong simulator testing resisters work as commonly found on ebay or amazon? and what actual wires does a guy plug it in to if there is already an OE resister in the seat? 

like on  Amazon

I'd like to not bypass anything but I've been watching for a seat for three months and the yard only gets in dummy seats in all their cars. can't seem to find anything else.

5 or will the module just need a reset? I can clear it with my maxi303 but it appears to be a hard fault and flashes a code right away after clear.

I'm in baton rouge.

3

On 9/23/2024 at 4:26 PM, mrknitefall said:

sensor

In case anyone else has the issue:

 

it turns out the scrap yard resistor was also bad. let me explain

 

the original gave a reading of 27 ohms when the car is looking for 2.3ish in resistance. The junk yard resistor  gave a reading of 7 which is still bad per the car. 

 

I tested a "tester" AKA bypass/simulator and the reading was correct at 2.3. So my wiring was not bad, it was a faulty replacement part that gave a false positive. No reset of module needed on this car. 

 

I crimped some ends on scrap wire, plugged into existing pigtail didn't even need to reset the light. no more issues and system works. thanks