Evening all,

ford Kuga titanium 2 litre diesel keyless start.

huge problem which isn’t my problem but my stupid brother and family are driving me mad not accepting my advice. 
His car keeps breaking down limp mode. Spent over 1k clutch master cylinder, starter motor, second hand injectors and since mechanic done these jobs the injectors leaked oil everywhere. The clutch pedal low. Stop Start now starts by clutch and brake pedal. Starter motor noises. Made my brother try another mechanic garage. He found frazzled wire to battery. Lose cables hanging all about to set fire. So another £450 to replace splice a battery cable. Car still knackered limp mode. The first original mechanic who done the clutch, starter and injectors said he needed a turbo, cluster and ECU.
 

3rd mechanic a turbo specialist. Diagnostic says electrical failure fault. 
so I have been telling my brother for months to buy a new battery but he’s refusing to listen. He had it recharged at a shop. It’s dumped outside not being driven 2 weeks. Today i’ve been in the secret menu today battery 10.9 volts. 
Brother is clueless and thick to be cruelly blunt. I can’t get him to understand to stop letting mechanics guess parts. Wasted over 1 k. 
A mobile mechanic said electrical codes, clutch and starter motor faults and said take car back to mechanic who done the works. 
The 2nd mechanic garage who fixed the frazzled battery cable is shocked about lose wires about to set fire which didn’t not get mentioned by the first mechanic garage when they replaced the clutch cylinder, then the injectors and then the starter motor. He has actually said it looks like someone had the gearbox out and damaged wires. But he didn’t give my brother a diagnostic code print out. First mechanics did not ever give diagnostic code print outs and not accepting any blame told to go away get a clutch fly wheel, cluster panel, ecu and turbo. They won’t accept the evidence that the starter motor that was fitted twice is cheap faulty. The turbo shop mechanic didn’t rip brother off. He didn’t scam into replacing the turbo. He charged £60 for the diagnostic. 
Is it an earth ground wire to bcm fuse wire break ? 
starter motor wire ? 
frazzled battery ?

frazzled alternator?

any ideas please ? 

I took the photos of the wires. The mechanic said lucky engine not set on fire. 
 

sorry long post but any ideas ? 
engine cranking but too unreliable to drive it. Should I give up trying to help my brother ?

 

Has he had the instrument cluster repaired before? It's the same type as in the Mk2+facelift Focus and commonly suffers from cracked solder joints on the wiring connector. This can cause havoc on the communication networks between computer modules. The acceleration reduced error is one common symptom of this, though of course can also be caused by other issues. You've got a whole bunch of fault codes starting with U than relate to communication issues. Refusing to start is another common issue due to the immobiliser (security) system (which involves the cluster) failing to operate properly through the cracked joints. There's a very good chance that some/all of the faults he'd experiencing are down to this.

I happen to provide a repair service for this cluster fault myself through ebay. I've repaired nearly 200 of these exact same units over the past 18 months I've been doing this. You can find my service here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915

I wouldn't trust the battery voltage reported from the cluster when it's receiving voltage via cracked solder joints that could be increasing resistance. Check it again after the cluster has been repaired, or better, buy a cheap multimeter and measure at the battery itself.

2 hours ago, Lisafredford said:

ford Kuga titanium 2 litre diesel keyless start.

Had to do a full refurbishment on the instrument cluster of my daughters 2010 Kuga only a couple of months ago. The car was getting many random an odd faults. I found about six or more cracked solder joints (not visible to the naked eye). Once repaired the problems ceased.

Hi guys, 

 

I will show brother your advice messages 👍

is the cluster behind the dashboard or the fuse box bcm behind the glove compartment? Sorry I’m confused 

The first mechanic said cluster and new ECU after he fleeced him out of money to change clutch slave, injectors and starter motor. 

but why did those cables frazzle and burn by the battery ?

 

4 minutes ago, Lisafredford said:

but why did those cables frazzle and burn by the battery ?

Because I suspect your alternator and/or battery has a fault.

I suspect the alternator or starter motor or all have a fault from car breaking down a few times. Jump start. Battery possibly frazzled if those cables got frazzled. Also wondering if a wire or solenoid to the starter or alternator is wired wrong or split?
I definitely agree it’s an electrical fault. I can’t get the full description out of my brother when the car has gone into limp mode and broken down. Sorry but my brother doesn’t understand anything. 3 mechanics have told him it’s electrical and the starter motor does not sound normal. The mechanic fitted one which he dropped on the floor. Went back for a replacement but that doesn’t sound normal too. These repairs have been going on since last December. He didn’t have clutch symptoms. Let the mechanic replace the slave. Since then the car starts with the clutch and brake pedal. Injectors leaked had to go back and was told the seals wasn’t on right. Told him not to use that mechanic. Told him over and over get battery and alternator multi reader test and results. Next problem is though we don’t know any mechanic to trust to take the cluster dash out to post away for repair. How difficult is it to take the dash board cluster panel out ? To post off for repairs? 
sorry but last 4 weeks it’s me doing the research. I’m ***** stressed out mate 

1 hour ago, Lisafredford said:

is the cluster behind the dashboard or the fuse box bcm behind the glove compartment? Sorry I’m confused

1 hour ago, Lisafredford said:

Next problem is though we don’t know any mechanic to trust to take the cluster dash out to post away for repair. How difficult is it to take the dash board cluster panel out ? To post off for repairs? 

The instrument cluster is this:

It's very easy to get out, presuming you have the right size of torx screwdriver (T25 or T20). I link to the following youtube video from my ebay listing for demonstration purposes, it features an older model but it's just the same. Watch from 5:35 to 7:26. As you can see you just shift the steering wheel as far towards you and down as possible to make room (undo the position lock underneath), lift a bit of plastic out of the way to expose the two screws, remove the screws, pry down a little at the top-centre so that a little wedge piece on the top comes out of a slot in the dash and now you can bring it forwards, unlock and pull out the wiring connector, and you've got it free.

The BCM (body control module) is called the GEM (general electric module) in these older vehicles. It's found within the CJB (central junction box), aka the passenger footwell fusebox. Commonly the entire CJB is referred to incorrectly as the GEM/BCM. It's located behind/beneath the glovebox.

Hi guys, 

Back again with hopefully fingers crossed 🤞 good news. So I took over as I’m a control freak and bought a new battery for my brothers car because he’s in denial and thinks the dead old battery isn’t part of the burnt battery cable and non start problems. Because the mechanics couldn’t fix his car he dumped it. So poor old dad connected the new battery in today and the car actually started and drove without limp mode without any warning dash lights. But I checked the secret menu and the 2 battery codes are still stored. But my cheap bog standard diagnostic machine did not show any DTC fault codes. Engine off battery voltage 13.4 v. Anyway I’m hoping all those previous codes found by 3 mechanic garages won’t come back. Sorry to pester you all again but do I need to do brake pedal light procedure to reset the car to know it’s got a new battery fitted ? 
it’s a 09 plate automatic diesel AWD Kuga. 
sorry I’m not mechanically able to do things but trying my best with help from you experienced, intelligent and helpful members. Much appreciated 🙏 

Well Lisa if your going to take control you need to get yourself FORScan so you can do a proper job.

On 4/7/2024 at 8:59 PM, unofix said:

FORScan (for use with Windows Laptop) : https://forscan.org/download.html

It's what many Ford owners use including some Ford technicians.

vLinker FS, cable for laptop: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

vLinker FD, for android phone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L

vLinker FD+, for iPhone: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2

 

Search Tag:   FORScan123

 

....and for extra points, here is how to reset the BMS.

On 3/29/2023 at 8:13 PM, unofix said:

How to reset the BMS method 1                                                                         Search Tag: BMS1

 

 

18 hours ago, Lisafredford said:

new battery fitted ? 
it’s a 09 plate automatic diesel AWD Kuga.

There is no BMS on a 2009 Kuga, so there is nothing to reset.

Hi unofix 

thank you for clarifying and your advise. I told my brother to use a garage with forscan and told him months ago buy a new battery. He can sort the rest of his car problems out himself. Since garage replaced a clutch cylinder the car won’t start via clutch pedal, it starts via brake pedal. Tried to explain he could take the cluster out send off for repair but he’s incapable of anything. Appreciate your help 👍