Hi all

 

I have decided to try to rebuild the bottom end on my 2014 1.0 ecoboost after the common wet belt problem clogging up the Oil Pump.

 

I have managed to get access to the Crankshaft and found one of the Rods to be loose and knocking.

I have made an attempt in removing the bearing from that Conrod and noticed the other half of the Bearing having welded itself onto the Conrod.

My Crankshaft looks abit rough behind the other half of the Bearing with some lines on it but nothing too serious that catches my fingernail.

 

My questions are:

1. What would be the best way in seperating the Bearing from the Conrod safely ?

2. Would it be advisable to replace all bottom end Bearings or just that one for the Conrod ?

3. Has anyone had any experiencenin using sand paper and shoe laces to polish the journal ?

4. Is the crankshaft timed and will it need to be back in the same spot where it was before I manually rotated it ?

5. Has anyone got a Video on how to remove the Main Bearings from the other side ?

6. And finally, has anyone got the torque spec for to Bolts that hold the Bearings in place ?

 

Thank you for all of your help 🙏🏽

 

If you have crank wear you will have rear camshaft wear, vacuum pump wear and turbo bearings wear and, possibly, number three bore and ring wear.

Check all these before throwing money at it.

Make sure turbo oil feed is also cleared of debris

Crank will need regrinding

I would be more tempted to source a known running replacement (that you've had the sump off to check for debris) and change the belts and fit that.

That engine looks scrap to me

I've been in this situation. I took it on as a project. I wouldn't recommend it.

1. The conrod will almost certainly require replacement (mine did). The conrod will only come out one way - upwards (the head will have to come off). It's not possible to remove the gudgeon pin (small end) in-situ and, whilst the pin is still fitted, the piston wont come down past part of the engine block.

2. It would be advisable to replace all the bearings. They've all suffered from the same oil starvation. Bearings are supplied in sets anyway. 

3. No, and I wouldn't even attempt or risk it on crank journal in that condition.

4. Yes. A timing kit would be required.

5. If you mean replace the upper main bearing shells by physically pushing/tapping them around I don't recall that would be possible at all 4 positions. In any case the crankshaft needs to be removed, reground and re-fitted with applicable new size bearings or a replacement crank sourced (which was my solution).

6. I can't immediately find the torque specs I used but I know they were available. 

If you are determined to do this work it would be advisable to remove the engine and mount it on a stand. Everything that has been mentioned would be better accessed in that way. New front and rear cranks seals would also be required.

I agree with DaveT70 that it would be more realistic to replace your engine. New, reconditioned or used options are possible, but be sure your car is worth that expense.

2 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

If you have crank wear you will have rear camshaft wear, vacuum pump wear and turbo bearings wear and, possibly, number three bore and ring wear.

Check all these before throwing money at it.

Make sure turbo oil feed is also cleared of debris

Crank will need regrinding

Thanks Dave, I showed your previous post to my Mechanic before and he said that all of these parts seemed okay to him.

I may try to save it but won't go too far in throwing money at it.

 

 

1 hour ago, RayC333 said:

I've been in this situation. I took it on as a project. I wouldn't recommend it.

1. The conrod will almost certainly require replacement (mine did). The conrod will only come out one way - upwards (the head will have to come off). It's not possible to remove the gudgeon pin (small end) in-situ and, whilst the pin is still fitted, the piston wont come down past part of the engine block.

2. It would be advisable to replace all the bearings. They've all suffered from the same oil starvation. Bearings are supplied in sets anyway. 

3. No, and I wouldn't even attempt or risk it on crank journal in that condition.

4. Yes. A timing kit would be required.

5. If you mean replace the upper main bearing shells by physically pushing/tapping them around I don't recall that would be possible at all 4 positions. In any case the crankshaft needs to be removed, reground and re-fitted with applicable new size bearings or a replacement crank sourced (which was my solution).

6. I can't immediately find the torque specs I used but I know they were available. 

If you are determined to do this work it would be advisable to remove the engine and mount it on a stand. Everything that has been mentioned would be better accessed in that way. New front and rear cranks seals would also be required.

I agree with DaveT70 that it would be more realistic to replace your engine. New, reconditioned or used options are possible, but be sure your car is worth that expense.

Thanks for your response Ray that was very informative.

1. Is there no way in replacing all the Bearings without having to remove the Crankshaft ?

2. Would it be possible to remove the Crankshaft without removing the Engine ?

Thanks again

6 minutes ago, wali110 said:

1. Is there no way in replacing all the Bearings without having to remove the Crankshaft ?

No

 

6 minutes ago, wali110 said:

2. Would it be possible to remove the Crankshaft without removing the Engine ?

No

As Ray said, the head needs to come off too

47 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

No

 

No

As Ray said, the head needs to come off too

okay thanks, but I don't understand how people are changing their bearings without removing the crankshaft then ?

1 hour ago, wali110 said:

okay thanks, but I don't understand how people are changing their bearings without removing the crankshaft then ?

Hi, it's possible to replace the big end bearings in-situ, provided the Conrods and their matching caps are in serviceable condition. Your example has overheated to the extent the bearing shell is affixed to the rod.

The main bearings can't be replaced in situ on this engine. Don't forget the front of the crank is located in the front seal (inside the front engine cover assembly), the rear end is located through the rear crank seal/plate (bolted to the block) and then bolted to the flywheel. Even when all the main bearings caps are removed the crank can't be manipulated forward or back because of it's lateral location the block - and of course can't be lowered down.

As you have the sump off, and to convince yourself, try tapping out the upper main shells starting at nos.1&4.

 

24 minutes ago, RayC333 said:

Hi, it's possible to replace the big end bearings in-situ, provided the Conrods and their matching caps are in serviceable condition. Your example has overheated to the extent the bearing shell is affixed to the rod.

The main bearings can't be replaced in situ on this engine. Don't forget the front of the crank is located in the front seal (inside the front engine cover assembly), the rear end is located through the rear crank seal/plate (bolted to the block) and then bolted to the flywheel. Even when all the main bearings caps are removed the crank can't be manipulated forward or back because of it's lateral location the block - and of course can't be lowered down.

As you have the sump off, and to convince yourself, try tapping out the upper main shells starting at nos.1&4.

 

ah okay thanks for sharing

 

How would one go about replacing the main Bearings that are on upper side of the crankshaft should they have a good engine and not on mine ?

And also does anyone have the torque spec for the Bearing bolts to fit back into place ?