good morning everyone, i hope everyone had a lovely christmas😃

my christmas present was my car back, as it had ecoboomed and the head gasket blew, i’ve had the car back for around a week now. engine was fully rebuilt and reconditioned by a known garage.

 

however since the rebuild i have had the following issues 

- after driving at random points the car will start to have a lumpy idle

- especially when cold the car can sound like it’s about to die

-frequent engine service now lights while driving, seems to be when boost is coming in.

- boost takes a lot longer to build, using my guage i can see the boost is at full at 3k rpm.

 

my mind leads towards vacuum leak somewhere but these lumpy idles are intermittent which is what confuses me.

ps - my induction kit has a rip in the foam,

intercooler boost pipes are not in best shape,

when limp mode comes on the car drives fine with no turbo, so could the misfiring be caused from something to do with the turbocharger?

 

please find videos linked in google drive attached, any help would be much appreciated as i have just spent a very large amount of money just for more problems to come up 😣

 

thanks lads !

 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VQiW8GRyvHmDoCSOmrbQiM2UeAdA17M3

Do you have Forscan to check the fault codes?

With a whole new engine and a lot of modification it's difficult to suggest anything from just a lumpy idle and limp mode.  Checking the boost hoses are tight and sealed is a good start.  Checking the vac pump valve hasn't split is also a good idea.

The turbo usually gets damaged by a lack of oil from a wetbelt failure, I wouldn't expect problems with it after a headgasket failure instead.

You have had it back for a week.You paid a lot to have that amount of work done. It is not working properly. Speak to the garage and explain politely but firmly that it is not yet satisfactory because it does not behave as a newly reconditioned engine is SUPPOSED to so their job is not yet done.

37 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Do you have Forscan to check the fault codes?

i have not had experience using forscan but will give it a shot, using normal obd readers no codes come up.

i do notice a blowing noise when pulling, which suggests could be a leak, but i’ve checked vac lines everywhere and can’t seem to see or hear a audible leak. only when pulling in the car

22 minutes ago, anon said:

You have had it back for a week.You paid a lot to have that amount of work done. It is not working properly. Speak to the garage and explain politely but firmly that it is not yet satisfactory because it does not behave as a newly reconditioned engine is SUPPOSED to so their job is not yet done.

i have gotten back to them and they told me to check a vac line that runs from my crossover pipe as it was loose when they were working on it, i tied it on tight so that can’t be the problem, only problem is they are based in sheffield and me southampton. bit of a distance problem☹️

3 minutes ago, antonvavtar said:

i have gotten back to them and they told me to check a vac line that runs from my crossover pipe as it was loose when they were working on it, i tied it on tight so that can’t be the problem

Tied it with what?  That doesn't sound very air-tight?

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

Tied it with what?  That doesn't sound very air-tight?

on the crossover pipe, the vac line on the right side, it’s secured with a zip tie. can’t hear any air leaking from it.

1 minute ago, antonvavtar said:

on the crossover pipe, the vac line on the right side, it’s secured with a zip tie. can’t hear any air leaking from it.

Hmm, ok.  Boost and vac hoses all need to be absolutely air-tight.  You won't necessarily hear any air escaping from them if they're not.

A blowing noise when pulling. You just answered your own question. There is a leak and it needs to be found. Use a piece of hose to your ear  as a stethoscope so you can place it where you have to around the engine and have somebody else rev the engine a little. Don't stop until you find it.

hey everyone! 

little update i scanned for fault codes and found the following-

P086B - 1E

P08AE-00

P086D - 00

P08B0 - 00

P086B - 38

P08AE - 38

P086A - 00

P006A - 62

P006A- 64

these state neutral position sensor and maf sensor, i have a new induction kit on the way but what does the other fault codes mean? thanks guys

 

edit - i found out it’s for the start stop system, i had it deactivated by the mechanic who fixed my gearbox. so no problem there, for the other fault code, will replacing induction kit work ?

 

Edited January 3, 20251 yr by antonvavtar

All those neutral position sensor codes are probably just caused by it being unplugged or the battery charge dropping low.  If you clear them, they shouldn't come back...hopefully.

The MAF codes confirm what we already suspected, there's a leak between the MAF & MAP sensors.  Either something isn't air tight within the intake pipework.  Or the induction kit hoses are too large and confusing the PCM.  Were any intake pipes changed with the engine, or are they all still the same as before the engine was fitted?

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Were any intake pipes changed with the engine, or are they all still the same as before the engine was fitted?

most of my pipes are aftermarket, all induction pipes are aftermarket + intercooler pipes, i will look into this now i have this information, thanks tom !

hey guys ! following up from this, i have attached the report from a technician at my garage, he thinks the camshafts need replacing as they are visibly worn, the question is how should i approach this? is this the work of the people who rebuilt my engine and can i claim off their warranty for this ? any help would be much appreciated

7 minutes ago, antonvavtar said:

hey guys ! following up from this, i have attached the report from a technician at my garage, he thinks the camshafts need replacing as they are visibly worn, the question is how should i approach this? is this the work of the people who rebuilt my engine and can i claim off their warranty for this ? any help would be much appreciated

A full engine rebuild should have included inspection of the camshaft, and replacement if required.

So yes this is the fault of the engine rebuilders.  They will probably just deny it though.  Do you have an itemised invoice showing what the rebuild included?

For example, if it says 'new camshafts' then you've definitely got a case for some compensation.

9 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

A full engine rebuild should have included inspection of the camshaft, and replacement if required.

So yes this is the fault of the engine rebuilders.  They will probably just deny it though.  Do you have an itemised invoice showing what the rebuild included?

For example, if it says 'new camshafts' then you've definitely got a case for some compensation.

The invoice states

Cylinder head gasket replacement with head recondition

Replacement cylinder head

water pump supply and fit

to be honest i'm not sure how to move forward, if they deny it being their fault then how do i move forward?

It is incredibly frustrating when i spent 3k to rebuild the engine only for this to happen 😟

The people who did the car are also halfway up the country, so i cant just pop in 

however they do offer a 36month or 36000 mile warranty, however i have seen no email/letter providing more details of this

3 hours ago, antonvavtar said:

The invoice states

Cylinder head gasket replacement with head recondition

Replacement cylinder head

water pump supply and fit

to be honest i'm not sure how to move forward, if they deny it being their fault then how do i move forward?

It is incredibly frustrating when i spent 3k to rebuild the engine only for this to happen 😟

The people who did the car are also halfway up the country, so i cant just pop in 

however they do offer a 36month or 36000 mile warranty, however i have seen no email/letter providing more details of this

Can you contact them by email?

Reconditioned head means they should have had a good look at the camshafts, as well as cleaning up the head and skimming the engine side flat.

If so, state the problem you're having, show them the diagnosis from the other garage, and ask politely but firmly if they'll repair it under warranty; or provide compensation for you to have it repaired at a local garage.

Reason I say email is so that you have something in writing for future reference.

Unfortunately the camshafts can only be replaced by removing the wetbelt, so it's a huge job, and will cost around half of what you paid again.  I don't think their profit margins will be that high so they'll be keen to deny it being their issue.  

They might use a third party warranty company, which would be better for you as the costs are then not coming out of the garages pocket.

Sadly, if they refuse to repair or replace point blank, then you would have to go through legal processes, potentially small claims court.