I'm having issues with the tailgate latch on a mk7 (2013) Fiesta.   Are their any guides or does anyone know how to test the latch and what expected on the connections, it still detects if the boot is open and turns the light on, the motor also seems to work if I remove and directly power it.   I've found this wiring diagram (https://cardiagn.com/2012-ford-fiesta-mk7-edo-wiring-diagrams-power-door-lock/),  but I'm not sure what to expect on the "Liftgate motor" connection, (presume 12v when hitting the remote or tailgate button above the number plate?) so I'm expecting the issue is more further up than the latch itself.   I've tested the connection to the "main" tailgate connector, which is okay.

Thank you,
Richard.

Apparently the latch itself it is a common fail.  (Why anyone makes modern locks this complicated is beyond me).

Mine failed - it wouldn't close. I just bought a 2nd hand one off a well-known auction site for £10 plus P&P and swopped it out.

Obviously you may have a wiring fault....

But it's very simple to swop, except you have to undo nearly all of the plastic covers and trim on the boot hatch to get access to the lock.  Poor design.

17 minutes ago, orangecurry said:

Apparently the latch itself it is a common fail.  (Why anyone makes modern locks this complicated is beyond me).

Mine failed - it wouldn't close. I just bought a 2nd hand one off a well-known auction site for £10 plus P&P and swopped it out.

Obviously you may have a wiring fault....

But it's very simple to swop, except you have to undo nearly all of the plastic covers and trim on the boot hatch to get access to the lock.  Poor design.

It was all fun and games to remove the lock!   On the bench the providing 12v to the motor connection (and ground to ground) the motor does do it's thing and lock/unlock which is the reason I don't think it's the latch.   The connection looks good to the pillar connection, I've not traced it back any further yet, presume it's near BCM or the BCM?

As my issue was caused by the latch itself, I didn't have to go into the wiring. And I didn't bother to test the old latch so I can't even tell you what the 'failed' state of the latch would show. Sorry not much help.