Hi all, I am in the middle of recommissioning our sons 2011 Focus 1.6 TDCi after he left us to work abroad. So far done oil and filter change, replaced rear brake shoes and freed off the brake cables, replacing rear springs.

On the to do list get the pin code for the radio as the battery was flat and when new battery was fitted radio etc. won't work without the pin code, replace the other rear spring, fix the dry joints in the dash and sort the rear indicator.

So need some help with what's left, I believe I need to get the radio out to get the serial number to get the PIN is this correct?

Had a major struggle to change the rear spring, the offside one was broken in 4 pieces!  so removal was easy! fitting not so, the spring compressors I have fouled the spring cups when fitting the new spring, eventually managed to get it in by disconnecting the lower arm from the hub then once it was more or less in taking off the compressors one at a time and flipping them over with a jack under the lower arm, not something I want to go that way with the other side. Any tips?

When checking the lights the rear offside flasher didn't, when I removed the bulb from the bulbholder the earth contact fell out so I need a relacement, the wirs to the stop/tail and indicators are sealed into the grommet where the wires come in from the boot, I haven't looked any further as it got dark is there a connector in the boot? I did a temporary fix by jamming the broken bit down the back of the contact and folding it over so the bulb hols it in place but I don't like bodges.

 

Thanks

Graham

1 hour ago, CCCars said:

So need some help with what's left, I believe I need to get the radio out to get the serial number to get the PIN is this correct?

Yes you will need the serial number.

On some Ford radios you can get the radio to display the serial number on the screen. Sorry I can't say more on the forum as the FOC admin won't allow any help with radio codes.

Have you checked that the clutch works OK?

I have heard of cars where the clutch plate gets attached to the flywheel by rust after a long time stationary .

ScaniaPBman

10 hours ago, unofix said:

On some Ford radios you can get the radio to display the serial number on the screen.

Press and hold 1&6 to bring up the scrolling the info screens.  One of them will be the serial number starting with a V on this model.

It's easy to remove the radio and check that way if you prefer though.  The dash fascia just peels up from the bottom and the radio itself is only held in by 4 screws.

12 hours ago, ScaniaPBman said:

Have you checked that the clutch works OK?

I have heard of cars where the clutch plate gets attached to the flywheel by rust after a long time stationary .

ScaniaPBman

Thanks for that but runs and drives fine, lots of rust on the brake discs so they might need attention, have to see if they'll clean up and check the pads for separation.

 

Graham

12 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Press and hold 1&6 to bring up the scrolling the info screens.  One of them will be the serial number starting with a V on this model.

It's easy to remove the radio and check that way if you prefer though.  The dash fascia just peels up from the bottom and the radio itself is only held in by 4 screws.

Thanks I'll give that a go, easier than pulling out the radio.

 

Graham

On 1/18/2025 at 11:39 PM, unofix said:

Yes you will need the serial number.

On some Ford radios you can get the radio to display the serial number on the screen. Sorry I can't say more on the forum as the FOC admin won't allow any help with radio codes.

 

On 1/19/2025 at 9:51 AM, TomsFocus said:

Press and hold 1&6 to bring up the scrolling the info screens.  One of them will be the serial number starting with a V on this model.

It's easy to remove the radio and check that way if you prefer though.  The dash fascia just peels up from the bottom and the radio itself is only held in by 4 screws.

Hi Tom tried the 1/6 thing but no joy so had to  remove the unit, lots of numbers so took pictures, got the serial number annd put it into one of the free sites and got a code so will try it when I connect up the battery after I've done the fix on the dash panel dry joints.

Thanks for your help

Graham

Todays update, did the resolder of couple of shaky joints on the back of rhe multiplug socket on the pcb.

Refitted the instrument panel, reconnected battery, reset radio PIN and radio now works, set date and time which updated the lcd in the dash panel, did a test of all the functions and all seems to be in order.

Started the engine and allowed to warm up, no fault codes appeared.

Next job to tackle is the rear indicator, I've removed the light unit and the wiring loom so just need to find a good replacement and should be almost ready for an MOT!

 

Graham

It would have been advisable to remove the old solder and replace with leaded solder on all the pins while you were working on it, otherwise you may have to repeat the exercise when other joints fail (which they will, eventually).

17 hours ago, mjt said:

It would have been advisable to remove the old solder and replace with leaded solder on all the pins while you were working on it, otherwise you may have to repeat the exercise when other joints fail (which they will, eventually).

Hi Mike I did consider that but gave them all a good look under the magnifier and they were all nice and shiny with no signs of cracks so I left them alone, it was the two end ones on the same row which seems to be where the problems occur going by the videos I've seen.

 

Graham