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Fuse beffudlement

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I have a 2008 Ford Fusion plus 1.6 automatic

bought a couple of years ago with only 9k miles on the clock. Currently just under 22k

 

i have managed to easily change over fuses for the cigarette lighters. However the last couple of months the USB adapters I have in them to power a dash cam (and now an upgraded dash tablet with cam), the connection is constantly dropping. 
I have cleaned the sockets, the fit is perfectly snug, it’s just unreliable, and as the new unit (USB to USB C) doesn't store/hold power, mid-GPS, the power goes out and I’m a bit lost en route.

To try and get around this I bought a hardwiring kit online but my partner has had terrible trouble finding a suitable fuse slot.

the reserves are all giving no power- no readings on the multimeter. The kit comes with a 5amp fuse and now we’re at a loss where this thing could be hard wired into / what ACC slots we could use that we know do work. I don’t want constant, only when the ignition is on.

if this is never going to be an option, then we may be lumped with having to upgrade the cigarette sockets to USB - I bought a couple online but of course the connectors don’t fit. 
 

any opinions or advice, welcome. 

 

 



If you have the adapter that fits a mini fuse slot with a tap for the camera supply, surely there's one in the fuse box that a multimeter or test lamp can find an appropriate fuse to piggy back off?

I suggest a combination of that (to find a live one when ignition is on) plus handbook to identify a live but non-critical circuit to tap into i.e. not something that is safety critical (not that it is that important?)

When found, fit the tap and that is your power supply. You'll then need to find a screw or bolt for the Earth and then hide the wiring behind trim.

Otherwise, I don't understand?

Decal.thumb.jpg.f6697c05fdf00d2c3db430fe001e8e89.jpg

I don't really understand what the problem is either - the accessory socket next to the "gear stick" should have no problem with a dash cam etc.  Have you lifted the panel around the transmission selector to check the connector on the bottom of the accessory socket ?  Test lamp is better than a multimeter as it shows that any 12V can power a real load, not just a multimeter.  There should be a fuse layout diagram on the back of the glove box.

On my '07 Fiesta there are two unused fuse ways (F2 & F3) at the yellow circle.  One is permanent 12V and the other is switched by the ignition.  You could try one of those witha piggyback fuse.

 

Fuses4red.thumb.jpg.7ed968bb43a426836d44481eef401431.jpg

 

F47 should be a safe ignition live  - rear wiper.

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