The gearbox needs replacing for Our 2014 Ford CMax powershift automatic Quoted £5000. So due to age of car probably not worth paying for repair.

But is scrapping our only option? Received quotes from £270 to £400.

Purchased car in 2017 for £11000 and the mileage is only 69000

So sorry to hear that.

Whilst the repair IS obviously very expensive, the only thing I'd say is that if is checked and otherwise sound engine etc. and, most importantly, you like the car it may be worth considering?

As you have found, it's essentially worth nothing (but more than the £50 Arnold Clark offered us for our fully working practically perfect to us 117 k S-MAX!) so looking for the overall cost to change might help you make a decision.

A car with age from a dealer is an unknown quantity to you requiring a warranty that reliably covers everything.

The other thing if we had to make that choice would be the warranty on the gearbox repair which would need to be read carefully, much as:

https://austrin-engineering.co.uk/services/

Would need to see the Ts & Cs.

We previously had a C-MAX and only changed to tow a caravan.

How does all of that sound?

Not clear if you only have the one price or if several have quoted that?

I'd be inclined to shop around for automatic gearbox specialst repairers. Nothing to lose by an hour or so of Googling.

And get their warranty and previous customer recommendations?

Thank you very much for your replies. I contacted about 5 different companies and have now been offered £500 for scrap. The reason we don't feel we can risk paying for the replacement gearbox is that we have been advised by several gearbox specialists that they often need repairing again in a year or so

I notice that this duplicate post hasn't been fixed and I suggest any future posts use:
https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/159630-is-scrapping-the-only-option/

 

On 2/22/2025 at 11:04 PM, Fiona22 said:

But is scrapping our only option?

Other options besides paying for the repair or scrapping the whole vehicle include:

a) Selling it of course, but you'd need to disclose that it needs a new gearbox.

b) Crashing it (to the point of it being a write off) and claiming on the insurance, but of course that would be fraud and you'd risk being prosecuted, so I don't advise that.

c) Stripping it down, trying to sell off the parts in good condition on ebay and scrap the frame. Note that some scrap companies may refuse to take the frame without the wheels because they would need to roll it onto their vehicle, they don't tend to have the means to lift it on with a crane apparently (though you could cut it up instead I suppose). If you manage to sell things off maybe you could get more than scrapping the whole vehicle, though you'd need to be able to take things apart, understanding potential hazards, and it may take quite a while to sell everything if you ever do. CMaxs are rarer than Focuses, which may help or may hinder sales. It's a big gamble and a lot of work. Don't forget postage costs for those things that can be posted.

Some bits that might be sale-able, with a very rough guess of possible value of some of them:

• Frame (to a scrapper; maybe £100)
• Wheels (though note above; maybe £50 each if nice alloys)
• Spare wheel
• Engine (the mileage is pretty good so someone might want it; value perhaps a few hundred)
• Light clusters (might sell for £50 each)
• Bumpers (if in good condition I've heard of them costing a few hundred each, though it was for different vehicles than yours)
• Crash bars (maybe £50 each)
• Doors (maybe £50-100 each)
• Front/rear wings (if in good condition; maybe £50-100 each)
• Tailgate/boot
• Bonnet (£100 maybe)
• Computer modules (~£50 each; ECU, GEM, IC)
• Alternator
• A/C compressor (would need system emptying first)
• ABS pump
• Seats
• Boot liner
• Parcel shelf
• Engine bay fusebox
• Dash
• Airbags (note hazardous to post)
• Seat belts (note this system is also hazardous since there's an explosive charge that draws them tight in an accident)
• Battery if relatively new
• Radiator and condensor pack
• Exhaust pipes, catalytic converter
• Brake lines
• Disk brake calipers
• Pedals
• Headliner (the inner roof lining)
• Windscreen
• Steering rack
• Steering column
• Steering wheel
• Front subframe with knuckles, rollbar, struts, etc (maybe two or three hundred; light surface rust may be fine for someone looking to replace a heavily rusted one, though needed to attach wheels)
• Rear subframe (same notes as front)
• Fuel tank
• Keys and locks
• The toolset included with the spare wheel (scissor jack, etc)

Note that if you scrap it or the frame there are legal obligations in terms of necessary paperwork.