Hello everyone,

I am after some information and general advice from people who perhaps have experienced the same problem or know where to start.

Beginning

I recently bought a 2011 1.4 petrol fiesta privately.

When I got home it started to go into limp mode.

I scanned the car with ForScan and it detected a few fault codes that have been turned off by the previous owner (how kind of him).

I attached the codes and their description below. If you could help with two things that would be much appreciated:

1. Is there an EGR valve or sensor for this type of petrol engine? How can I fix the first fault?

2. Replacing the front right speed sensor will fix the ABS faults?

Fault codes

PCM module

Code: U0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low

Status (-28):

• Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
• Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Freeze Frame #1:

• EVENT_TIME: 9257667 s (Fri Mar 07 15:20:49 2025) - Event time
• TOTAL_DISTANCE: 148873 km - Total Distance
• MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage
• OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 12 °C - Outside temperature
• ESTSERUN: Yes - Engine status - engine running
• ESTSECRK: No - Engine status - engine in crank
• RPM: 1225 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute
• VSS: 10.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed
• LOAD: 27.06 % - Calculated Load Value
• ECT: 27 °C - Engine coolant temperature
• MAP: 30.0 kPa - Manifold absolute pressure sensor
• APP_D: 7.84% - Accelerator Pedal Position D
• SHRTFT1: 0.00 % - Short term fuel trim 1
• LONGFT1: 0.78 % - Long term fuel trim 1
• FUELSYS: Open Loop - Fuel System Status (Open/Closed Loop)

ABS module

1. Code: C0051 - Steering Wheel Position Sensor

Code: C0051 - Steering Wheel Position Sensor

Additional Fault Symptom (:67):

- Signal Incorrect After Event

Status (-60):

• Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
• Test not complete

Module: Antilock braking system

Freeze Frame #1:

• EVENT_TIME: 422945157 s ((null)) - Event time
• TOTAL DISTANCE: 143145 km - Total Distance
• MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.0 V - Control Module Voltage
• OUTDOOR TEMPERATURE: 21 °C - Outside temperature
• POWER_MODE: error - Power Mode Status
• AYC: Inactive - AYC
• ABS: Active - ABS
• BTS: Inactive - BTCS -201D
• RSC: Inactive - RSC
• BTC: Active - BTC
• HDC: Inactive - HDC
• BST REL SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State
• VAC BST_ ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State
• HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State
• ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 14.2 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage
• VSS: 39.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed

2. Code: C0033 - Right Front Tone Wheel Code: C0033 - Right Front Tone Wheel Additional Fault Symptom (:07): - Mechanical Failures Status (-68): Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Test not complete Module: Antilock braking system Freeze Frame #1: EVENT_TIME: 412648690 s (Fri Dec 18 12:24:33 2037) - Event time TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138196 km - Total Distance MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.0 V - Control Module Voltage OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 22 °C - Outside temperature POWER_MODE: error - Power Mode Status AYC: Inactive - AYC ABS: Active - ABS BTS: Inactive - BTCS -201D RSC: Inactive - RSC BTC: Inactive - BTC HDC: Inactive - HDC BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 14.1 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage VSS: 36.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed 3. Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM 'A' Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM 'A' Status (-68): Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Test not complete Module: Antilock braking system Freeze Frame #1: EVENT_TIME: 412648690 s (Fri Dec 18 12:24:33 2037) - Event time TOTAL DISTANCE: 138196 km - Total Distance MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.0 V - Control Module Voltage OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 22 °C - Outside temperature POWER_MODE: error - Power Mode Status AYC: Inactive - AYC ABS: Inactive - ABS BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D RSC: Inactive - RSC BTC: Inactive - BTC HDC: Inactive - HDC BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State VAC BST ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 14.1 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage VSS: 36.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed 4. Code: C0034 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Code: C0034 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Additional Fault Symptom (:07): - Mechanical Failures Status (-68): Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Test not complete Module: Antilock braking system Freeze Frame #1: EVENT TIME: 413418280 s Sun Dec 27 10:11:03 2037 - Event tir TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138474 km - Total Distance MODULE VOLTAGE: 14.0 V - Control Module Voltage OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 14 °C - Outside temperature POWER_MODE: error - Power Mode Status AYC: Inactive - AYC ABS: Active - ABS BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D RSC: Inactive - RSC BTC: Inactive - BTC HDC: Inactive - HDC BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 14.2 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage VSS: 42.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed Thank you in advance!

 

 

Bump!!

I changed the abs sensor for the front right wheel, cleared the codes.

Went for a test drive and shortly after I left, the amber abs and traction control lights came on again.

Other symptoms, brake pedal pulsating when applied and possibly a door heater actuator clicking loud clicks.

 

11 hours ago, John6532 said:

Bump!!

I changed the abs sensor for the front right wheel, cleared the codes.

Went for a test drive and shortly after I left, the amber abs and traction control lights came on again.

And presumably read the fault codes again...  What are they now?

Hi TeamFocus,

The codes are listed below, it is really odd that they appear shortly after I go over 20 mph.

I cleared the codes again, test drove the car for a few minutes and like clockwork the fault codes appeared on the dashboard.

Other symptoms, when I break I get vibration in the brake pedal, steering and rotors similar to how ABS engages.

Should I try to replace the wheel bearing in case it's damaged? Also, should I be worried about the U0401 - Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM A?

Thank you in advance!

===ABS DTC U0401:00-68===
Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM 'A'

Status (-68):
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 - Test not complete

Module: Antilock braking system

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 9977922 s (Sun Mar 16 10:14:19 2025) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 148904 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.0 V - Control Module Voltage
-OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 9 °C - Outside temperature
-POWER_MODE: error  - Power Mode Status
-AYC: Inactive  - AYC
-ABS: Inactive  - ABS
-BTCS: Inactive  - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inactive  - RSC
-BTC: Inactive  - BTC
-HDC: Inactive  - HDC
-BST_REL_SW: Inactive  - Booster Release Switch State
-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive  - Active Vacuum Booster State
-HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive  - Hydraulic Pump State
-ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 14.3 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage
-VSS: 42.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed
===END ABS DTC U0401:00-68===

===ABS DTC C0034:07-68===
Code: C0034 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor

Additional Fault Symptom (:07):
 - Mechanical Failures

Status (-68):
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 - Test not complete

Module: Antilock braking system

 Freeze Frame  #1:
-EVENT_TIME: 9977921 s (Sun Mar 16 10:14:18 2025) - Event time
-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 148904 km - Total Distance
-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage
-OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 9 °C - Outside temperature
-POWER_MODE: error  - Power Mode Status
-AYC: Inactive  - AYC
-ABS: Active  - ABS
-BTCS: Inactive  - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inactive  - RSC
-BTC: Inactive  - BTC
-HDC: Inactive  - HDC
-BST_REL_SW: Inactive  - Booster Release Switch State
-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive  - Active Vacuum Booster State
-HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive  - Hydraulic Pump State
-ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 14.3 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage
-VSS: 43.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed
===END ABS DTC C0034:07-68===
 

The vibration you're getting will be from the ABS triggering.

This sounds like a fault with the ABS module, or potentially a broken wire, to me.

For the next test, see if you can find live data speed readings for each individual wheel.  The ABS might be triggering because it thinks the front right wheel is not moving when you brake.  When there is a detectable fault with the system, it usually defaults to off, and won't trigger at all, which is why I'm concerned that it's a wiring or module issue rather than a simple sensor fault.  However, if it is just that one wheel not working, then I would agree with changing the wheel bearing with ABS ring next.

 

34 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

The vibration you're getting will be from the ABS triggering.

This sounds like a fault with the ABS module, or potentially a broken wire, to me.

For the next test, see if you can find live data speed readings for each individual wheel.  The ABS might be triggering because it thinks the front right wheel is not moving when you brake.  When there is a detectable fault with the system, it usually defaults to off, and won't trigger at all, which is why I'm concerned that it's a wiring or module issue rather than a simple sensor fault.  However, if it is just that one wheel not working, then I would agree with changing the wheel bearing with ABS ring next.

 

Hi TeamFocus, 

Anything in particular that I need to read from the live data? I got 2 months free license with ForScan. I am about to go to the car and check the following:

1. ABS fuse

2. Live data

3. ABS pump control module (signs of damage or burnt wires)

Thank you!

17 minutes ago, John6532 said:

Hi TeamFocus, 

Anything in particular that I need to read from the live data? I got 2 months free license with ForScan. I am about to go to the car and check the following:

1. ABS fuse

2. Live data

3. ABS pump control module (signs of damage or burnt wires)

Thank you!

Look for all 4 individual wheel speeds, then compare them over a drive to see if they all match fairly closely.  This can be done without the Forscan licence.

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Look for all 4 individual wheel speeds, then compare them over a drive to see if they all match fairly closely.  This can be done without the Forscan licence.

Hi TomsFocus,

It looks like the speed sensor is working correctly, although it is getting different values as per below screenshot. 

I'm going to replace the wheel bearing next as I am out of options. I just need to find the correct diameter because everywhere I looked I got 37, 38 and even 39 inner diameter ...

OE part number is 1582282.  Only one option for all engine types.

Looks like 39mm inner diameter, but 37mm width.

 

Possibly a daft question but have you checked the tyre size is correct and it's not under-inflated?  That can change the speed reading.

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Possibly a daft question but have you checked the tyre size is correct and it's not under-inflated?  That can change the speed reading.

Hi TomsFocus,

I went to the petrol station and refilled the car and checked the pressure in the tyres.

The rear left one had 8 PSI…I was shocked when I saw the value. Anyways, I filled them up, the lights went away but appeared after going over 30 mph.

Thank you for the part reference. I ordered a pair of bearings from ebay. It will have to wait until the weekend before I take the knuckle apart and find a garage to remove and press the new bearing in.

to be continued 🙏 

Quick update

I managed to remove both knuckles and dropped it to the garage to have the bearings pressed in.
I am now a hater of outer tie rods as I spent 30 minutes hammering on one of them that was seized and rusted 🤬 but in the end nothing could match my chisel and hammer.

I suspect the left side was replaced because it came out fairly easy. The right side was a completely different story, seized and full of rust.

I bought two outer tie rod ends, ball joints to get everything replaced in one big job.

If everything goes to plan, I am hopeful that I can buy 4 x new tyres and get front-wheel alignment.

I have listed the parts below for anyone who is in the same situation as me.

Wheel bearings without circlet (the closest I got to OEM with abs sensors)

Wheel bearing

O/S tie rod end (genuine ford)

Tie rod

N/S tie rod end (genuine ford)

Tie rod

Ball joints (oem?)

Ball joints

Do you know the torque settings for the bolts used in the knuckle and axle assembly?

Also, do you know a good website for oem wheel bolts and locking wheel bolts? 
 

Thank you!

I don't have access to reliable torque specs any more unfortunately.

Ford still sell the wheel nuts either online or at their parts shops.  Near identical Febi branded ones can be bought much more cheaply from ECP.  Or you can choose different aftermarket ones, as long as they fit your wheels.  Being 2011 means they are probably the 'old style' nuts, not the newer 'global' nuts.  They are not interchangeable, you need exactly the same collar/shoulder as the ones you've got now.

Another update - I noticed more things that went wrong with the car and I’ve decided to replace the components for the front suspension. I will check the ABS sensor once I’m done with this job.

Jobs outstanding:

1. Replace inner and outer track rods

2. Replace control arms

3. Try the C-clamp ball joint removal tool🙂

4. Install swivel hubs

5. Buy new tyres all round

6. Get a front wheel alignment

7. Full service

If anyone needs help with information held in the Haynes manual for Ford Fiesta Mk VI 08-12, drop me a PM. I’m happy to return the favour and help everyone with their queries.

Wish me luck!

Update 

Slippery slope and a few WTF moments later I have some good news and bad news.

Good news first

All the bad and alarming noises have gone.

ABS sensor is now working correctly.

Test driven the car up to 30 mph and rescanned the car, no fault codes found.

I replaced the whole front suspension: lower control arms, inner & outer track rods with rubber boots.

I got new tyres fitted, I went with Dunlop SP Sport BluResponse.

The c clamp press was a massive save as it saved me the trouble of ordering a new control arm.

Bad news

I managed to destroy 2 ball joints: one in the lower control arm and another one in the outer track rod.

One tyre is leaking.

I might need to change the whole driveshaft, which it isn’t that difficult but I’m frighten of the those effing balljoints dust cover made of poor quality rubber that splits immediately.

When I turn the steering wheel to the left I hear a clunking noise.
Considering the car has 92k miles I should replace them and be done with it.

Once I finish this job, I can get the car aligned.

Do you know any certain ways to test for driveshaft issues?

FYI, Whatever you do, DO NOT use a screwdriver to pry the balljoint or track rod from the swivel hub…ask me how I know 😅

FYI 2, DO NOT use an impact gun on a c clamp. Set your cups and if you don’t have a vice grip, put the c clamp horizontally on the floor and use a ratchet then a breaker bar with a long pipe. Always use silicone grease whenever you use the clamp.