Hi all I have a Ford Focus 2019 1.0 litre ecoboost with 40k on the clock. Very recently 1st gear has started to pop out when bringing up the clutch after being stopped. There’s a bit of resistance when  put the gear in and it doesn’t do it but if I put it in without the resistance it pops out. Any suggestions? Car is not under warranty but I would expect a gearbox to last a hell of a lot longer than that.

This is unfortunately a common problem.

The Focus MK4/MK4.5  1.0 ECOboost has the Ford MX65 transmission. The modular design MX65 transmission family (5-speed 5MX65 and 6-speed 6MX65) was developed by Ford/Getrag to be cost effective to manufacture.

The MX65 transmission family is mainly used on the smaller (lower torque output) engines where it replaced both the (ancient) 5-speed IB5 transmission and the (more expensive to produce) 6-speed B6 transmission. The Focus MK4/MK4.5  1.0 ECOboost basically has the strongest version of the 6MX65 transmission. This transmission is also known as the Getrag 6MTT215 where 215 stands for the maximum allowed torque of 215 Nm that the transmission can handle. 

Failure of the 1st and 2nd gear synchronizers and (as a result of this) damage to the gears is unfortunately not uncommon on the 6MX65 transmission . Especially on heavier vehicles like the Focus MK4/MK4.5. 


A Ford dealer will most likely offer a replacement (new or factory remanufactured) transmission which are both quite expensive.

I recommend to have the existing transmission rebuilt by either a reputable garage or transmission specialist. In many cases the problem can usually be cost effectively solved by replacing only a few parts. This is much cheaper than a replacement transmission.

Thanks for replying if I approached the dealership I got it from would they offer to replace it free of charge or at a reduced rate? No way a gearbox of any car should be going at 40k.

Since the car is well out of warranty the chances that Ford will replace the transmission free of charge are close to zero.

If the car has a full service history and all services are performed by Ford dealerships you could be eligible for the goodwill scheme. The goodwill scheme consists of a (partial) cost compensation. However goodwill is not a right but a favour from Ford to loyal customers. Just contact Ford CRC, explain the situation and they will tell whether the goodwill scheme may be applicable in your specific situation or not.


Be aware that every manufacturer uses a formula to calculate the the percentage of compensation. The formula is usually based on the economic life expectancy of the product.

For example: a car usually has an economical life expectancy of 10 Years. After 6 Years the car is at 60% of its economical life expectancy. This means that there is only 40% of the economical life expectancy left. It is quite common that the offered compensation is 40% (or even less) of the total repair costs. This is just an example but the percentages are usually not far out.

Even If Ford offers a partial compensation on the installation of a new transmission the total costs are usually higher than the repair of the existing transmission at a specialist. 

Hi, 

I still haven’t had my car diagnosed but just had thought that maybe this could be down to a gearbox mount that is perished. Where are they located? And how could I check them? 

I highly doubt that a worn transmission mount is the cause of your problem.

The shifter cables are directly connected to the gearbox (both the outer and inner cables). Even if the transmission mounts are completely knackered it will not affect the adjustment of the shifter cables and mechanism.

This engine/transmission has an upper transmission mount that is located at the top of the transmission (below the air filter housing) and a torque restrictor at the bottom of the transmission.

The upper transmission mount rarely fails. Failure of the (oil filled) engine mount and the torque restrictor are more common but have different symptoms.


I highly recommend to not drive the car for a long period in its current condition. The excessive wear usually increases in which case a full transmission rebuilt/replacement may be needed instead of just replacing a few worn internal parts.

20 minutes ago, JW1982 said:

I highly doubt that a worn transmission mount is the cause of your problem.

The shifter cables are directly connected to the gearbox (both the outer and inner cables). Even if the transmission mounts are completely knackered it will not affect the adjustment of the shifter cables and mechanism.

This engine/transmission has an upper transmission mount that is located at the top of the transmission (below the air filter housing) and a torque restrictor at the bottom of the transmission.

The upper transmission mount rarely fails. Failure of the (oil filled) engine mount and the torque restrictor are more common but have different symptoms.


I highly recommend to not drive the car for a long period in its current condition. The excessive wear usually increases in which case a full transmission rebuilt/replacement may be needed instead of just replacing a few worn internal parts.

Okay thanks for the advice I’m not gunna get anywhere with Ford. The car is a PCP finance which end in February next year. I don’t want to spend thousands on a new gear box to give it back. So unsure what my best course of action is. How much would I be looking roughly at a repair or replacement? The issue has now spread to 3rd gear so it’s 1st and 3rd now. The gear box also sounds really rough.

A quick google search has revealed these guys in Somerset ???....

 

Gear Change Ltd | The Gearbox Repair Experts

Hi Josh,

Out of curiosity, did you use to shift in 1st gear while the car was still moving? Coming from old Renault 12 I got the habit of never shifting in 1st before the car has stopped, because that old gearbox would simply not go in 1st before standstill. But I saw other drivers doing this on modern cars, and I also tried it. Interestingly enough, it shifts very very smoothly when the car is rolling 5-10-15 km/h 😵. Yet I still avoid doing this. Could it cause premature wear on the synchro rings?

Cheers!

On older cars it was extremely common for both the 1st gear and reverse gear not being synchronized because these gears were only intended to be selected when the vehicle is not moving. The downside of the 1st gear and reverse gear not to be synchronized was that it was not possible to select these gears while moving (at least not without a lot of crunching sounds). Even without the vehicle moving it could sometimes be difficult to select the 1st or reverse gear. Sometimes you just had to release and engage the clutch to give it another try.

Approximately at the early 90's manufacturers started to use a synchronized 1st gear. This improved shifting to 1st gear dramatically. The reverse gear however was usually still not being synchronized. On some vehicles shifting into reverse could be difficult. On a gearbox with a synchronized 1st gear it is possible to select 1st gear while the vehicle is moving. This will not cause any significant wear as long as the vehicle speed is low. It is just designed to work this way.

These days most gearboxes have all gears including reverse synchronized. Most people will never try but on many vehicles with a synchronized reverse gear it is possible to select reverse gear while the vehicle is still (slowly) moving forward. Again this will not cause any significant wear as long as the vehicle speed is low and the clutch is not released while the vehicle is moving forward.


The Ford/Getrag MX65 transmission is developed as an affordable, (light)weight, and fuel efficient replacement of both the ancient 5-Speed IB5 transmission and the (much more expensive to manufacture and also stronger) 6-Speed B6 transmission.

Unfortunately history showed that at least the 6-Speed version of the MX65 transmissions has its problems. With a maximum allowed torque input of 215 Nm it is no longer over engineered. The Ford B6 transmission that was used on the 125/140 HP 1.0 ECOboost engine is the Focus MK3/MK3.5 for example was rated at 285 Nm.

Known problems/characteristics of the MX65 transmission are:

* Popping out of gear (usually 1st or 2nd gear).
* Failure of the synchronizer rings (usually 1st or 2nd gear).
* Total loss of gears (again usually 1st or 2nd gear).
* Wobbling of the gear shifter while driving (just a characteristic of this transmission).
* Gear shifter feeling loose (caused by worn plastic parts).

The car I learned in with my local driving school had no synchro on first, and my instructor showed me how to double de-clutch.

This proved very useful as two of my first three cars had unsynchronised first gears!😀

3 hours ago, JW1982 said:

On older cars it was extremely common for both the 1st gear and reverse gear not being synchronized because these gears were only intended to be selected when the vehicle is not moving. 

Approximately at the early 90's manufacturers started to use a synchronized 1st gear. This improved shifting to 1st gear dramatically. 

Unfortunately history showed that at least the 6-Speed version of the MX65 transmissions has its problems. With a maximum allowed torque input of 215 Nm it is no longer over engineered. The Ford B6 transmission that was used on the 125/140 HP 1.0 ECOboost engine is the Focus MK3/MK3.5 for example was rated at 285 Nm.

Known problems/characteristics of the MX65 transmission are:

* Popping out of gear (usually 1st or 2nd gear).
* Failure of the synchronizer rings (usually 1st or 2nd gear).
* Total loss of gears (again usually 1st or 2nd gear).
* Wobbling of the gear shifter while driving (just a characteristic of this transmission).
* Gear shifter feeling loose (caused by worn plastic parts).

Thanks! I just learnt something new today about the older gearboxes having the 1st and reverse not synchronized.

Interesting, that the max torque of the MX65 is 215 Nm. I checked the specs of my focus 1.0 125ps mhev, and it says the engine output is max 170 Nm, and the BISG max output is 20 Nm. Even with these combined, the torque output is below the 215 Nm. I also understand that the gears themselves could get damaged if the gearbox would withstand the max torque for extended periods of time. But what does the torque have to do with the synchronizer rings? Once the clutch decouples the engine, everything is moving freely. Could it be there is some kind of design flaw? Or maybe a production batch which had some QC issues?

 

 

To add a bit more to Wilco's excellent answer, some Gearboxes including the B6 Plus one fitted to my car have three Synchromesh Cones on First and Second Gear plus one on Reverse and the other Gears.

29 minutes ago, RaduF86 said:

Thanks! I just learnt something new today about the older gearboxes having the 1st and reverse not synchronized.

Interesting, that the max torque of the MX65 is 215 Nm. I checked the specs of my focus 1.0 125ps mhev, and it says the engine output is max 170 Nm, and the BISG max output is 20 Nm. Even with these combined, the torque output is below the 215 Nm. I also understand that the gears themselves could get damaged if the gearbox would withstand the max torque for extended periods of time. But what does the torque have to do with the synchronizer rings? Once the clutch decouples the engine, everything is moving freely. Could it be there is some kind of design flaw? Or maybe a production batch which had some QC issues?

The 1.0 ECOboost MHEV also has overboost for a short period.

As far as I know the 125 HP MHEV has a maximum torque output of 210 Nm with overboost and the 155 HP MHEV has a maximum torque output of 240 Nm with overboost.

The MX65 transmission that is fitted to the MHEV has some uprated components and is listed to be able to handle a maximum torque output of 240 Nm.


Unfortunately, the official Getrag documentation is no longer available. All datasheets used to be listed on the Getrag website but since Getrag was merged into Maga Powertrain all datasheets are removed.