the biggest issue here seems to be

DPF_WS_T (Wall Substrate Temp):

• Values: Up to 5800°C (💥)

  • Interpretation: This is not physically possible. This indicates a faulty temperature sensor (possibly what the system calls EGT13 or EGT14) or a calculation error due to a bad reading from upstream sensors.
    This could be preventing active regens from being triggered, and could cause limp mode.

 

so i am back to the beginning , where actually is  Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 13 (Bank 1 Sensor 3)

on the second section of the exhaust, in the pictures i uploaded above we have 2 larger sensors, could one off these be egt13, they are the only sensors on the exhuast after the dpf

Jimmy (and I) do our testing at idle and 3000 Rev/min, your results appear to be at 2000 - so that needs sorting first IMHO for comparison purposes?

2.4 kPa is within acceptable range but idle figure is a bit high?
Soot loadings of around 54% also seem fine as does zero failed regens?

Going back to basics, no fault codes, DPF pressure a bit high maybe at idle but appears OK at 2000 (I'd still like to see less than 10 kPa at 3000 which we don't know - to be sure DPF isn't blocked at those higher revs), no failed regens? so DPF system, may be working?
If it's high at 3000, you'll need to clean and then reset parameters.

I don't now how you have decided on that specific pipe in your photo as I don't know that part, so can't comment.

The issue after that is the temperatures looking silly which may (or not) be producing the "limp mode" behaviour for some unknown reason (no fault codes is crazy to me?)
Should you change temperature scale to Celsius in Forscan (Units)  as that is more understandable to me and perhaps others? (212 F - 100 deg C which may be a default value etc?)
Do temperatures read sensible when cold i.e. ambient and how do they behave as engine warms up (any evidence of erratic or step changes or going silly after certain time or temperature?

Disconnect each sensor and confirm which is which that are registered in Forscan?

Use a decade box or variable resistance to see if value within PCM is calculated correctly?

If that test is done and results known then (as DPF may well be OK - once 3000 Rev/min result is obtained) then it's back to testing sensors at connectors, wiring back to PCM ( load testing, short to ground or short to live etc?:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8GL8VCg7C8

Are we (you) missing something stupid e.g. jammed throttle pedal or something else equally mad?

This is confusing and the above is my best guess (as ever)

 

 

i just looked at the (Retrieve CMDTCs) section on the PCM

 

and we have a code

P20EE:00:64  SRC NOx Catalyst Effciency Below Threshold Bank 1 Catalyst 1

 

i did clear it, took the car on a run and it came back again, the weird thing about the limp / power loss mode, is when the cars cold, you can drive for say 5 miles and its running fine, maybe say stop and head off again when its all warmed up and the limp / low power mode kicks in,

and , then when in the low power mode  trying to rev the engine in neutral it will not go over 2000/2200 rpm , and of course low power driving

 

so the question now is what does this code mean or point to???

i was not able to get this code from Forscan, is there a different section to see these codes or see pending codes on Forscan

the codes where  got from the Topdon Phoenix Lite 2 under the Retrieve CMDTCs option

 

heres the reading also again in Forscan , at idle and holding at 300rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

on searching for this code  and looking at the reults it brings up a couple of issues that might be causing this

 

1) the adblue injector blocked or coked up on the  exhaust/dpf

2) might be contamination of the ad blue

3) It has recently have a NOx sensor changed, removed and refit on the service printout, only a couple of thousand miles ago, maybe the  learned values where not reset

 

i guess the next option is to test the live data again to try to pinpoint any issue we can

 

one thing to note on Forscan when i connect the program to the car, it does not bring up the correct 2.0 ecoblue model of the smax

its always bringing up the earlier duratorque engine , and the ecoblue engine has alot more  live data points to stream than the  earlier engine (906) when connecting to the topdon, 

of note, the topdon connects to the internet when connecting to the car and then allows you to select the correct ecoblue engine type on car/model selection

 

 

heres the similar fault (P20EE) on the same engine, but in the 2.0 ecoblue transit version

 

 

i have check the rear of the exhaust and it does not have any black soot, it looks quite clean to be fair, so hopefully ruling out a cracked dpf, as mention in this video

 

 

 

I can't see the DPF readings on my phone but if they are within previously stated figures then maybe we don't have a problem with that Houston?

You have now found a more likely source and with my Dinosaur knowledge I only know that AdBlue nozzle blockage is another common issue which Jimmy and others mention.

My option, if I had that system would be to use the additive that prevents crystallisation but, of course, the fault needs to be cleared perhaps by cleaning the nozzle BUT  more and more I am left behind by the massive changes since 2011 so I probably give up now?

the thing that dose not look right to me , is why do we get the temperature sensor still giving high readings on EGT 1/3, and the dpf wall temperatures still way off the mark , like thousands of degrees

could there be a link between the high reading of the Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor bank 1 sensor 3, and those calculated values of the dpf wall etc

 

if the car thinks the dpf is near meltdown (thousands of degrees), its not going to operate correctly, i'm not sure if it links it to the engine temperatures, so when we start from cold we get it running ok, but once up to temp we go into low power mode

the 2 sensors after the SRC,  one is a Nox Sensor the other a particle sensor, maybe one of these sensors could be giving the reading for EGT 1/3 but be faulty??

these sensore have 5 wires each coming out of them, so maybe there a temputure sensor reading in there???

 

i have ordered both the 2  spare sensors to try to plug these in to see if that makes a difference, hoping its that easy to slove my problem

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

this problem is driving me crazy

both sensors behind the src swapped over , but still the same promblem!!!!!!
 

the car has now gone into full lower  power mode and will not rev past 2000 ish rpms

 

points to note

 

1 - when checking the obd function it states EGT sensors 13 and 14 are not supported (as in the attached picture)

2 - there still wildly high inferred DPF wall temperatures  showing, but i am not sure these related to the unused EGT 13 /14 Sensors

3 - theres a error in the data stream - pcm verify ok (status) error (as in the attached pictures)

 

the fault code for the SRC below threshold was deleted, but has not come back, as yet guessing the car still  in limp mode so guessing that will not flag up if at all until the issue is resloived

 

the question now is is the PCM VERIFY OK  something that comes to the top?? if theres a fault or bad software issue, could this be the root cause of the problem , or is this something to dis reguard

 

Key finding (oddity):

• Initially, my scanner reported EGT13 and EGT14 as "Not Supported."

• But now, live data shows EGT13 at 1275°C and EGT14 at 3004°C! And then dpf wall temperatures wildly high at thousands of degrees when cold

• Car physically does NOT have EGT13 or EGT14 sensors or plugs fitted — confirmed by looking around  wiring looms around the DPF/SCR area and the parts diagram above.

Other live data:

• No massive soot loading in DPF.

• DeNOx long-term ability is low but not critical (10%).

• No abnormal NOx faults logged. Nox seemed to be showing a good drop from sensor 1 to sensor 2

Current theory:

• ECU is seeing phantom EGT sensor readings due to:

  • Wiring damage (open, short to voltage, or cross-talk).

  • Corrupted ECU software configuration (possibly expecting sensors that aren't there).

• Because the system thinks the exhaust is at 3000°C, it immediately forces limp mode as a safety measure, even though the real temperatures are fine.

---

Questions for anyone familiar with this:

• Has anyone else seen an S-Max / Edge / Galaxy where the ECU thinks EGT13/14 exist but the vehicle never had them?

• Would this require a reflash or recalibration at dealer level (IDS/FDRS/FORScan)?

• Or should I focus first on chasing wiring faults (e.g., near the DPF temp sensor harnesses)?

• Is it possible to manually "turn off" EGT13/14 monitoring via coding if they aren't fitted?

---

Any advice massively appreciated.
Trying to avoid a main dealer visit if possible but its looking like i might have to take it in

 

I'm not familiar with this and remember, I'm a Dinosaur but I would always aim to keep things simple.

If the rather complex explanation above doesn't mean that you know which Forscan item is connected to which thermocouple position, then I'd find that first i.e disconnect each one in turn/all and note down their position on the physical exhaust system.

Then look at them at various operating conditions to see if there's any pattern going on.
Ignoring any calculated values at the moment.

After that and assuming (Danger alert!) they are resistance thermometers i.e. resistance goes up with temperature, I'd aim to calibrate each channel (best you've got is 100 deg C  - boiling water OR a flame  - hundreds of degrees but watch you don't damage them) measure the resistance and see if each sensor is the same (they may of course be different so watch out for that however wildly different,  I don't think so?

Then it's load testing all wires back to the PCM and checking for shorts to earth or live or to any other wire.

To further investigate if necessary, I'd use a decade box or fixed resistors (or 10kOhm variable resistor and set it using a multimeter to apply different resistances to each channel and see if they behave in a similar way at the Forscan channel.
I'd confirm no wiring (and sensor) faults above all else.

Also if it is in limp mode then I'd expect some fault codes forcing that???

This is very Old School Engineering and as I was always told - if there's a problem, check your instrumentation and be sure you believe it (vital when balancing 800MW turbines!).
Boring, I know, make of that what you like (and you did ask!)

i just dropped it off at the ford main dealer as it is due for some warrenty work, i asked them to do a diagnostic on it to get  to the bottom of the problem

 

its going to cost £130 plus vat to get a idea of what we are dealing with, i will post next week when i get it back to shed more light on the issue

just a update on this 

its been in the ford main dealers twice now and they have no idea whats wrong with it!!!

 

1- on the first visit, they said the rear  particulate sensor behind the src did not look genuine and needed replacement in order to rule that out as a probem

so £500 bill and drove it out , still the same problem of in limp mode / low power mode

 

2 i rung them up and explained the issue was still exactly the same so they said drop it off and they will look further into it - so 2 weeks latter they explain they will need to remove the dpf and have a look at it, with no guarantee this is the issue , with another ask of £450 just to do that

 

so i have just taken the car back. and will try further to resolve this issue 

the weird thing about being in the main dealer they seemed to say because theres no fault codes present there not alot they can do 

there was no mention of looking at live data at all

would it not be the case of looking over the live data for anything that stands out as not right?

 

like the weird readings of the dpf particulate wall filter being at thousands of degrees when cold and  potentially a issue with the exhaust sensors 3 and 4 showing wild values as well, if they are in effect used

the strange thing with this model car if reading it on forscan , and assuming the ford dealer tools, theres less data points , than looking at it with a higher end generic code reader like topdon or autel

there was also a pcm error state listed if i can remember as well listed under the live data points

 

 

The problem with main dealers is that they have to follow certain procedures.  One of which will be something like starting with fault codes, and only moving on to live data if there is a fault code present.

It doesn't work the same as an independent garage who can basically do whatever they want.

So as you are well out of warranty, you can do what you want.

In general I would avoid main dealer procedures (why didn't they refit your original DPF  or at the least, do you have it returned to you?) and prices if at all possible and yes, I agree, you now need to look at live data and as per my suggestions above (which no one has ridiculed or improved) which would be a starting point.
I'm not saying it will fix it of course.

Again, as ever, I'd look at:
Diagnose Dan
Milligan Auto Services
Skoda Yoda
Intelligent Auto
O'Rileys Autos (DPF specialist)

On You Tube to get a feel for how in depth diagnostics should be done.
They often do work that main dealers and others have failed to progress so someone similar in your area (that behaves like the exemplars above) would be my next suggestion.
I think you should do as much as possible yourself (some of the data is stupid implying sensor or wiring fault IIRC) then give anyone you decide to consult as much information as possible (they may take it on board but at least you have done what you can)

Hi, just wondering if you got to the bottom of this? Having the same issue with a transit 2.0 ecoblue!