Hi guys. Having a few issues trying to find exactly what the specific pully's (round wheels) are actually called.

 

I know you have your tensioner pulley and your starting motor pulley, but what are the other ones for as I believe one of them is broke as I have got a grinding noise that sounds like dry bearings and I need to replace them asap. 

 

Especially as the cars does an awful lot of miles per month.

 

 

 

I hope someone can help and I know I sound like a dipstick with this question.

 

 

 

2013 1.6 TDCI focus estate (MK3 I think)

 

Thanks mick

This image at the first link is from an old post on here. CS is Crankshaft, T is Tensioner, GEN is Generator (Alternator) and AC is the Air conditioning compressor.

The grinding noise could be from any one of those.

It could also be from the water pump or timing belt tensioners. These are behind plastic covers on your engine.

The starter motor drives the flywheel ring gear teeth and is separate from the belts.

https://fordowner.b-cdn.net/uploads/monthly_2018_02/15189708591981975778944.jpg.a79eb557c31df587f809bf6aa6cfbb99.jpg

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/99295-ford-focus-2012-mk-3-16-tdci-belt-diagrams/

Thanks Anton.

Yea mine is the first image. Thank you now I know exactly what the bottom 2 pully's are for makes that one a lil easier.

Now just to try and figure out where the noise is actually coming from. But it deffo seams to be that area.

It should be ok to remove the plastic cover and start engine correct? Just so I can check out the noise from that area also.

Thanks 

Mick

It is not possible to remove the lower timing belt cover without first removing the auxiliary belt, crankshaft bolt and main pulley. 

This will also loosen the crankshaft timing sprocket, so it should not be removed unless absolutely needed.

If the auxiliary belt was removed, you could turn the alternator and AC clutch pulley by hand and see how the bearings feel.

You could then run the engine without that belt to see if the noise is still there.

 

Thanks Anton.

Well after a little closer listen when the engine is started, without anything removed.

It sounds like the noise is coming from closer to the plastic cover.

Also I have noticed that there are time when I am driving that the temp is set to 21°-23° or there abouts and it does sometimes blow air colder than it would have done 5 mins beforehand.

It does not do this all of the time but randomly it will. So for some reason I am thinking this could be a water pump issue.

It does blow hot air don't get me wrong but sometimes the air will drop to colder than the temp set on both dials in the car. 

The car also is used as a delivery vehicle so it is pretty much started for hours with very little breaks. So I believe this should not happen with the heat blowing into the car as my other vehicles have not done this. The temp dial on the dashboard stays at around 60ish and does not go into the high stage of the dial.

Maybe I am wrong but I think this could be in the crank/water pump plastic case where my issue may lay.

Maybe what I have explained above, I could be completely wrong about the water pump area, so maybe you may have more insight?

I truly do thank you for your assistance it is absolutely greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Mick

If it sounds like it is coming from behind the timing cover it could be the tensioner pulley or water pump. The water pump is driven by the timing belt on this engine.

How many miles has the car done? Do you know if the timing belt and tensioner have ever been changed?

It's done 101 thousand and I don't believe they ever have. It was actually a job I was planning on getting done.

I just have problems finding a garage local to me that will do that job. Especially at a reasonable price.

Because I believe over a £1000 is a lil pricey for this. I know it is time consuming and there is a decent price tag on the job. I just that is a little expensive.

I do like to try and do jobs myself and I do do quite well with things and I was going to try and do this myself seams it's a belt bit a chain. 

But I have only had the car a couple of months and was definitely a job on my list to be done as soon as I could get it done.

I do know this can be a job that if done wrong can bust the engine, which is why I was going to leave this to a garage.

But again no I don't believe it has been done and I know does need doing like immediately kind of thing.

Thanks 

Mick

32 minutes ago, dr1v3r said:

I do like to try and do jobs myself and I do do quite well with things and I was going to try and do this myself seams it's a belt bit a chain. 

This is very unlikely to end well 🙁

Get a professional garage to do the work. It should cost £500 - £600

https://www.origindurham.com/

Did the timing belt on my daughters 2010 Kuga 2.0 Tdci 👍

Brilliant cheers Uno I will contact them in the morning as I do have one more place to contact a little closer. But at least I have a recommendation from someone that's had one done 😁

I know this can be an iffy job especially if the cogs are not locked perfectly in the correct place or locked wrong.

This is why I have not attempted the job myself. I just so love tinkering and smashing my knuckles open with a motor.

Thanks

Mick

It seems like it is due if it has never been done.

This is the information on the recommended intervals from the Haynes manuals site:

https://haynes.com/en-gb/tips-tutorials/ford-focus-mk3-routine-maintenance-guide-2014-2018-petrol-and-diesel-engines

Every 100,000 miles or 8 years, whichever comes first

• Renew the auxiliary belt
• Renew the timing belt and tensioner*

*The Ford interval for belt renewal (timing and auxiliary drive) is actually at a much higher mileage than this (125 000 miles or 10 years). It is strongly recommended, however, that the interval is reduced to 100 000 miles or 8 years, particularly on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

 

Just out of curiosity is this an interference engine or non-interference engine?

Thanks Mick

very much interference.

If the belt fails the engine will be scrap

 

Yea sorry I didn't think of asking Google first before posting. My bad but at least I have a real person's answer.

Think I need this done like tomorrow now. Especially the sound it's been making the last couple of days.

Thank you so much guys.

Mick 

Well I finally got it fixed and after all it was not the timing belt area it was actually the alternator rattling like crazy to the point it was making the timing belt plastic cover rattle..

So it was what I actually thought it could have been in the very first instance before I posted my first message on here.

But I have had the belt etc changed because I knew it needing doing anyway due to the milage.

So I thank all of you for your assistance and also uno for putting me InTouch with origin.

They squeezed me in and so far all seams good, except my bank balance is even worse now lol.

But it is done and hopefully I don't have to worry about anything for a while yet (can't see that being the case like lol)

Thanks again.

Mick

Thanks for coming back, your bank balance would have had a much bigger hit if anything had failed!

You now know it is done and can tick that off for the longer term! (keep the paperwork as evidence)