I've just been spun a yarn by the ATS mobile tyre fitter that my wheel nuts are swollen and he's not allowed per policy to touch them. Pic attached.

 

Google suggests this is a well known issue. What are the options please? I'm guessing it's a) an expensive trip to the garage (not sure if they'll replace with unaffected ones?), b) is it a easy enough DIY job and any guide/tips if so?

 

Thanks for any help.

This does appear to be an issue but never had it on 2011 S-MAX?
I can't find a recent post (Search function is very poor on here) but I recall some options were: buy a socket that's say, 1/2mm larger, my option: is there an Imperial socket that will fit snugly?
Is there a tool on Amazon or eBay that will help?:
e.g. (Check your size!):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406087467380

For seized nuts it has been suggested that Tyre fitters will get them off - doesn't match your issue but I can see if they do take them off, they may not be able to safely put back etc  and anyway, they need replacing to avoid issues down the line.
New solid nuts would be my thought but hopefully someone can point us to the thousands of previous threads detailing easy solutions??

What is the supposed standard size socket for yours?
 

Thanks.

I've bought these solid aftermarket ones and will get them swapped over. There's a comment in the reviews that they definitely fit the s-max.

https://amzn.eu/d/hpLImpH

 

Will report back.

Can you please say in your report, how you got the old ones off, for the benefit of anyone in the future?

2 hours ago, dave189h said:

I've bought these solid aftermarket ones and will get them swapped over. Will report back.

I think my Son ordered some of those and the bolt head was very long and stuck well out of the wheel, be ok for a van but not a car so he returned them and purchased some smaller ones, same thread/pitch angle.

Tattered Ford wheel bolts has always been a serious issue on this forum and to think Ford still produces the crap bolts.

6 minutes ago, Ian Lanc said:

and to think Ford still produces the crap bolts.

The wheel nuts with the pressed on tin cover haven't been used since 2013 when the 'Global' wheel nuts were introduced.

Newer wheel nuts should not suffer the same issues, but anything is possible.

40 minutes ago, Shearers said:

Can you please say in your report, how you got the old ones off, for the benefit of anyone in the future?

Been no end of old posts about wrecked ford bolts, last post the outer had to be ripped off, then a socket fitted to the smaller bolt head, most recent is this post.........
 

 

Just now, unofix said:

The wheel nuts with the pressed on cover haven't been used since 2013 when the 'Global' wheel nuts were introduced.

Didn't know that pal, I still see Ford are still selling them at dealerships and on ebay.

On 9/10/2023 at 2:16 PM, unofix said:

When it comes to Ford wheel nuts everything revolves around the year 2013

• Before 2013 lots of different types of Ford wheel nuts for both Alloy and Steel.
• After 2013 Ford introduced Global wheel nuts and so things were much simpler.
• If you're unlucky and are dealing with the year 2013 then it could be either.

The two piece nut with the rotating collar is only for use on pre-2013 alloy wheels, as far as I know.

 

I believe ours are two piece, with rotating collar and the dodgy sheath and are a rather tight 170Nm which I don't fully understand why but religiously follow., but that is pre-2013 and obviously before your table..

4 minutes ago, Shearers said:

ours are two piece, with rotating collar and the dodgy sheath and are a rather tight 170Nm

That doesn't seem to be the correct torque for the two piece nut. According to the table they should only be 110Nm

170Nm is far too tight for wheel nuts.  You wouldn't be able to get them off with the standard brace in an emergency.  I would be interested to see where that figure was shown.

I've just checked 5 different Ford owner manuals for the 2011 to 2014 S-Max.

They all only give one value for all wheel types of 170Nm 🙁. I suspect this is a classic case of the Ford manual(s) having an error that is being copied and pasted on to each manual.

A check of 12mm studs, the maximum torque for the thread is 143Nm after which threads will be stretched.

My guess is that it should have read 120Nm

Just for reference: 2010 Kuga AWD has a wheel nut torque of 130Nm

From 2011 etc ETIS:
 
"Torque: 
Steel wheel nut M12 silver 140 Nm
2-piece alloy wheel nut M12 with conical washer 140 Nm
2-piece alloy wheel locking nut M12 with conical washer 110 Nm
1-piece alloy wheel locking nut M12 140 Nm
All nuts M14 including locking nuts 170 Nm"

As said above, echoed in our handbook, has the plot thickened after 14 years of following ETIS & handbook?
 

Further option:-

Rather than a mobile fitter, take car to a proper workshop of KwikFit or whatever you favourite tire fitter is. They'll have the experience/knowledge on how to remove. You are correct in thinking you have been spun a yarn.

5 hours ago, Shearers said:

All nuts M14 including locking nuts 170 Nm"

Your car has M14 studs ?

That seems a massive over kill on an S-Max.

Mondeo = M12 (Like all other Ford models)
S-Max/Galaxy = M14

Ford must have had a good reason to use M14 wheel nuts on the S-Max/Galaxy. Otherwise the penny pinchers would have used the standard M12 wheel nuts instead.

Some Volvo models that shared the platform with the Mondeo/S-Max/Galaxy also use M14 but these use wheel bolts instead of wheel nuts.


Note that only the hubs and wheel nuts are different between the Mondeo and S-Max/Galaxy. The wheels itself are identical and fully interchangeable. 

In the end, my local ATS branch was happy to remove and replace the wheel nuts with new ones when they switched the tyres, which the mobile fitter had been unwilling to do. They said they used a 23mm socket to get the old ones off, they looked pretty rounded. 

The Ellis Excellence Set of 20 M14 x 1.5, 21mm Hex Alloy Wheel Nuts I linked above from Amazon fit perfectly and are solid/one piece. 

The Michelin Crossclimate 3's are very nice, stable and grippy IMO.

The Archoil cleaner recommended above by Shearer seems good too.

 

1 hour ago, dave189h said:

The Archoil cleaner recommended above by Shearer seems good too.

 

Interested to know, if you use it, what difference (if any) you notice?
I've never found any claims from anything of increased MPG to be true but it runs more smoothly and has the additives that may improve cleanliness and HP pump lubrication so I'm still sticking with it.

Agree runs more smoothly, especially when pulling off from a stop at low revs in my diesel.