In terms of hand tools, what size sockets, wrenches do I need? I've heard I may have a hex socket but Im not sure and I may have an undertray to remove. I'm really new to car maintenance but want to get better at it. Can someone link some options as well please. Also, do I want 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch drives?

 

Car is a 2014 Ford Focus Diesel TDCi 1.6L 

Edit: https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/modular-trays/halfords-advanced-26-piece-1%2F2in-socket-set-modular-tray-332518.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=ilaliawrp&istBid=t&gclsrc=aw.ds&&_$ja=tsid:|cid:17363835999|agid:|tid:|crid:|nw:x|rnd:18210676533194823408|dvc:c|adp:|mt:|loc:1006643&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17366425846&gbraid=0AAAAADrJx6yR-gXlg7gRmrkfoWcDFzNyL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzt_FBhCEARIsAJGFWVnPEpmxyGkmwe9JZkTzVIDoucR6YRZmruk4DZ3wndQHaL-LQ8u58pkaAiM6EALw_wcB Was linked this, does this include everything i will need?

Hi,

If you can afford it, I'd recommend going for a larger socket set with many more options to start with.  I bought a few smaller sets which I regretted and ended up buying one larger one instead.

If your car still has an undertray fitted, you'll need Torx bits for that.  (T20 or T25)

From memory I think the oil filter cap on that engine is 27mm, but you can measure that easily with a tape measure to confirm before choosing any kit.

The sump plug is quite large but thin on these.  Again from memory I think it was probably 17mm, but might have been 13mm.  3/8" ratchet is the right size for this job.

Ford wheel nuts are 19mm, though you really need 1/2" sockets for those.

Most smaller nuts and bolts are 10mm or 13mm on many cars.  But there are always some awkward ones, so I'd rather have a good selection available at all times.

Torx

As Tom said, you'll likely need T20 or T25 sized torx tooling for the undertray if it has one. Same will likely apply to wheel arch liners if you ever find yourself needing to remove one. If you get a T20/T25 torx "bit"/"bit socket" that fits a 1/4" driver, then you could get a cheap 1/4" breaker bar for a few quid of ebay to use with it. Alternatively a set of torx allen keys may suffice.

Sockets

Over time you might find it useful to have sockets and drivers in both 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sizes, depending upon how much work you intend to do for yourself.

For wheel lugnuts you need 1/2" (I disagree with Tom on this; 3/4" tooling with rare exceptions is usually only ever needed for larger vehicles like lorries). A big mistake people often make is to try to use a 3/8" breaker bar, which then snaps and they then complain unfairly on the likes of amazon feedback that the tool was badly made. 1/2" should be more than sufficient for car lugnuts. My 1/2" breaker bar survived being used for my crankshaft pulley bolt when replacing my timing belt, and that involved a hell of a lot more force than needed for lugnuts. Suspension work is another area where 1/2" tooling would be wanted.

Note that a lot of socket sets skip certain uncommon sizes below around 20mm, which would be very annoying if you're missing a size you really need. So check exactly what sizes are included before buying. Above around 20mm you'll find that all sets skip a lot of sizes. 1/4" sets typically go from around 4mm to 13mm, often with two half sizes, 4.5 and 5.5. 3/8" sets typically go from 10mm up to 19mm. 1/2" sets typically go from 10mm to 20-something or 30-something.

Also note that they come in both normal/shallow and 'deep' kinds.

The set you've linked to does seem to have the sizes required for the task, presuming Tom is correct about what sizes are needed, as I'm sure he is, but as Tom says, you may perhaps in future regret getting a "small" set like this.

Lugnuts

As just stated above, you need 1/2" tooling.

You could get away with just using the wrench provided with the car to remove and refit the lugnuts, but that's not ideal. Better for removing them would be a 1/2" breaker bar. Ideally when putting them back on you want a 1/2" torque wrench to ensure that you tighten them up to the proper specification.

Note that if you try to use a normal/shallow socket with a breaker bar / torque wrench, you may find that your hand and the bar/wrench are uncomfortably close to the side of the vehicle. So either you'll want a short extension bar, or a deep socket to solve that problem.

Note also that you can get special lugnut sockets that have a plastic sleeve on them to help protect your alloys, if you have them, from scratches. Personally I just use a normal deep socket. Also note that sometimes lugnuts or "caps" on them can swell a little in hot weather, creating a socket fitment issue. You can get special sizes like 19.5mm for situations like this. Again, personally though I've managed just fine with a normal sized socket. Sometimes the caps come off, but I just knock them out of the socket with a screwdriver and push them back on.

Lifting

Do not just lift the car with the emergency scissor jack that came with the vehicle and then climb under it to get to the sump plug. You'll be in serious danger of the jack failing and the vehicle falling onto you and killing you. Get a pair (or two) of good axle stands and learn how to use them properly. Also you need something to 'chock' the wheels that aren't being raised off of the ground. You can either buy "proper" chocks, or just use bricks. Note that axel stands and wheel chocks are needed no matter what kind of jack you have/use.

If/when you get tired of using the scissor jack to lift the vehicle, you'll want to invest in a good trolley jack. Note that there are 'normal' kinds and 'low profile' kinds, which are much lower at the front, helping them reach further under the vehicle. If intending to lift on the pinch welds, you may want a rubber hockey puck with a slit in it to place on the jack.

Axel stands and trolley jacks each have a certain weight limit that they can support. The more weight they can support the better. Always best to have a good margin of safety.

Filter

Some oil filters just screw into place and you need some grips or similar to loosen them before you can unscrew them. Others are enclosed in a plastic case with a cap that unscrews, and requires either a normal socket or perhaps a special tool. I'm sure that Tom is perfectly correct about this case requiring a normal 27mm socket.

Gasket

You may find that the sump plug has a rubber ring/gasket, which ideally you should replace each time to help avoid leaks.

Instructions

If you get the Haynes manual for your vehicle then you'll find lots of useful information about heath and safety hazards, tightening specifications, and of course, instructions for how to do lots of stuff. (One thing you won't find is what sizes of socket are required for each fastener). You can also supplement this with youtube vids.

12 hours ago, rd457 said:

Sockets

Over time you might find it useful to have sockets and drivers in both 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sizes, depending upon how much work you intend to do for yourself.

For wheel lugnuts you need 1/2" (I disagree with Tom on this; 3/4" tooling with rare exceptions is usually only ever needed for larger vehicles like lorries).

Apologies, that was my mistake.  Should have been 3/8" for oil change and 1/2" for wheel nuts.  Will edit previous post to avoid confusion.

This is the kit that I bought nearly 15 years ago and still have now.  Has all 3 ratchet sizes, plus adapters so that every socket and bit can be used with every size ratchet if required.  (Saves having to keep swapping sockets on the same size ratchet during larger jobs). 

Only broke one part in all that time, a Torx bit that I snapped on a seized brake disc screw and Halfords replaced it for free without any problem.

Halfords Advanced 150 Pc Socket & Spanner Set | Halfords UK