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2014 2.2 Transit Custom Full Loss of Power

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Afternoon,

Current Mileage 178K

(Bit of back history first) I haven't had the van too long, it was always struggling to turn over upon starting, every so often chucking up the P0299 code while driving which was put down to injector seals which have been changed but top of the injectors seems to be wet still. Sometimes after driving if I pulled over for the shop / fuel etc and turned the engine off it would struggle to start and need jumping. I serviced the van (Oil inc filter, Fuel filter and Air filter) Anyway after around 600miles after service I was coming down the M18 and lost all power oil light came on briefly and will not restart even with a jump starter. Any ideas before I go down the new engine route? 



Looks like multiple issues to me and the oil light and loss of power is very serious, perhaps needing a relative compression test (measure stater current with Amp clamp) to see if there's any compression.
If that or a conventional compression test looks good then it's back to normal diagnostics?
Personally, I don't rate an underboost code as being related in any way to injector seals but if you have a fuel or other leak there, that needed attention.
Battery doesn't sound too hot either?

Is it a wet belt with no history of maintenance?
Again, don't be a OPW - becoming very common!

Might sound strange but try removing the oil or the coolant cap n try starting it.. as strange as it sounds a bloke who my brother bought 1 of them type off a flat bed which l pressume will have the same engine. Told him to remove 1 of them n to turn it over n it worked 🤯.. that only had about 50k on it..

I'm not saying if it does work it'll sort the rest but it's ford so you never know 😂

  • Author
11 hours ago, Shearers said:

Looks like multiple issues to me and the oil light and loss of power is very serious, perhaps needing a relative compression test (measure stater current with Amp clamp) to see if there's any compression.
If that or a conventional compression test looks good then it's back to normal diagnostics?
Personally, I don't rate an underboost code as being related in any way to injector seals but if you have a fuel or other leak there, that needed attention.
Battery doesn't sound too hot either?

Is it a wet belt with no history of maintenance?
Again, don't be a OPW - becoming very common!

Its chain drive buddy, been suggested could be oil pump failure 

  • Author
8 hours ago, doggsbody said:

Might sound strange but try removing the oil or the coolant cap n try starting it.. as strange as it sounds a bloke who my brother bought 1 of them type off a flat bed which l pressume will have the same engine. Told him to remove 1 of them n to turn it over n it worked 🤯.. that only had about 50k on it..

I'm not saying if it does work it'll sort the rest but it's ford so you never know 😂

Will give that a try later 🤣

31 minutes ago, Kelk said:

oil pump failure

All "suggestions" need to be ruled out (gauge on the sensor?) - IMHO if there's no oil pressure there is likely to be serious damage which may sway your decision?
Do you spend anything on taking it apart  or just get another engine and how sure do you want to be rather than taking advice from random people like me?😃
Of course, if the suggestions are free/cheap then worth doing until you can make a decision that works for you - do come back with any evidence/what you finally decide!

If this is a working van where time is money then I'd just chuck another engine in it if it has failed internally.

The line that concerns me is the one about jump starting though.  If it always started with a jump before then that was never an engine fault.  It's battery or battery cables.

The oil light will come on when the engine stalls, so I'm not convinced that that means oil pump failure in this case, unless you can be sure the light came on while the engine was still running.

20 hours ago, Kelk said:

Anyway after around 600miles after service I was coming down the M18 and lost all power oil light came on briefly and will not restart even with a jump starter. Any ideas before I go down the new engine route? 

High pressure fuel pump failure ?

Air leak in the fuel line and or fuel filter.

  • Author
8 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

If this is a working van where time is money then I'd just chuck another engine in it if it has failed internally.

The line that concerns me is the one about jump starting though.  If it always started with a jump before then that was never an engine fault.  It's battery or battery cables.

The oil light will come on when the engine stalls, so I'm not convinced that that means oil pump failure in this case, unless you can be sure the light came on while the engine was still running.

Also it would need jump starting once engine had gotten hot. Battery was tested by the RAC and he said it was fine as I thought it had a started motor issue. The light only came on once engine lost power. I may remove the injectors to relieve compression and check to see if crank turns

  • Author
5 hours ago, unofix said:

High pressure fuel pump failure ?

Air leak in the fuel line and or fuel filter.

Not smelt any diesel or seen any leaks. The filter housing was a nightmare to take off though when I serviced it. 

50 minutes ago, Kelk said:

Also it would need jump starting once engine had gotten hot. Battery was tested by the RAC and he said it was fine as I thought it had a started motor issue. The light only came on once engine lost power. I may remove the injectors to relieve compression and check to see if crank turns

The point about jump starting is still the same.  That just bypasses the starter motor.  It can't start a faulty engine.  So many parts seem to be mentioned in this thread that shouldn't be directly connected.

If the engine cut out before the oil light came on then we can ignore the oil light as it would be expected at that time.

You should be able to turn this engine by hand without removing the injectors.  Compression won't be high enough to prevent that.  Removing the injectors potentially adds another issue on top of the current one(s) so I'd try to avoid doing that for now.

  • Author
1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

The point about jump starting is still the same.  That just bypasses the starter motor.  It can't start a faulty engine.  So many parts seem to be mentioned in this thread that shouldn't be directly connected.

If the engine cut out before the oil light came on then we can ignore the oil light as it would be expected at that time.

You should be able to turn this engine by hand without removing the injectors.  Compression won't be high enough to prevent that.  Removing the injectors potentially adds another issue on top of the current one(s) so I'd try to avoid doing that for now.

Cheers bud will try the crank tomorrow after work, hopefully got a guy coming out at the weekend to have a look 

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