Greetings from across the pond. I've been working this problem for a couple weeks now but I'll try to keep it brief.

I started the car then went inside for 5 min to let it warm up.  When i came back out it would crank but never start.  Some days later (i was hoping it was a frozen fuel line so i waited for a warmer day) it began starting but running very poorly.  It seems to idle OK but anything else really is no good.  I'm getting a P0365 & P0369 code.

I have:

• Replaced the sensor.
• Checked the wiring end to end.
• Visually verified that the magnetic tone ring is where it should be and has no obvious defects.
• Tried running it with the sensor unplugged.  No change.  Still runs like crap.
• Tried running it with the intake side unplugged too.  It gives the same codes but for the intake side and runs the same.

At this point I'm wondering if this is a problem with a phaser?  I have an oscilloscope so I'm considering hooking it up and seeing if i'm getting a signal. I'm trying to exhaust all possibilities before i pull the valve cover and try to verify mechanical timing.  Cracking into the high pressure fuel system sounds like something to be avoided.  The car has 115k miles but the last 30k have been short trip city driving.

Hi,

If the car has 115k on the original wetbelt then it has already exceeded expectations.  I would be be expecting timing belt damage and at least one tooth jumped on the exhaust cam.

Also, I don't know how far south you are, but I'd be very surprised if you could ever get a petrol fuel line to freeze.  It's diesel that gets thick and waxy in cold temps.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Hi,

If the car has 115k on the original wetbelt then it has already exceeded expectations.  I would be be expecting timing belt damage and at least one tooth jumped on the exhaust cam.

Also, I don't know how far south you are, but I'd be very surprised if you could ever get a petrol fuel line to freeze.  It's diesel that gets thick and waxy in cold temps.

I was afraid that would be part of the answer.  I ran it for a couple min last night and as soon as it started to get warm it developed a really nasty rattle that seemed to be coming from the top end.  Should i suspect a cam phaser too?

What are people's experience with the super cheap torque multiplier (https://www.ebay.com/itm/196911921144) vs the cheaper Amazon unit (https://www.amazon.com/KOZPUS-303-1611-01-303-1611-02-Crankshaft-ECOBOOST-Torque/dp/B0F2QVYH9Q?tag=ustxtaddt-20) vs the full priced OEM one?  Similarly, the locking tools?  https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-EcoBoost-ECOBOOST-303-1605-303-1606/dp/B0CYWJCQXY/ref=sr_1_5

Since I'm not in a huge hurry my short term plan is to get the lock tools, pull the valve cover and check the cam timing.

For context, i have tons of experience with VW diesels and general wrenching but little on this engine or any other gasoline engine with direct injection or variable cam timing.

39 minutes ago, validius said:

I was afraid that would be part of the answer.  I ran it for a couple min last night and as soon as it started to get warm it developed a really nasty rattle that seemed to be coming from the top end.  Should i suspect a cam phaser too?

What are people's experience with the super cheap torque multiplier (https://www.ebay.com/itm/196911921144) vs the cheaper Amazon unit (https://www.amazon.com/KOZPUS-303-1611-01-303-1611-02-Crankshaft-ECOBOOST-Torque/dp/B0F2QVYH9Q?tag=ustxtaddt-20) vs the full priced OEM one?  Similarly, the locking tools?  https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-EcoBoost-ECOBOOST-303-1605-303-1606/dp/B0CYWJCQXY/ref=sr_1_5

Since I'm not in a huge hurry my short term plan is to get the lock tools, pull the valve cover and check the cam timing.

For context, i have tons of experience with VW diesels and general wrenching but little on this engine or any other gasoline engine with direct injection or variable cam timing.

Yes, the cam phaser might be worn out now as well.  Or the top end rattle could be due to lack of oil pressure reaching the top end.  This happens as the oil pump clogs up with bits of wetbelt.

I don't think there's much point just checking the timing.  If you're going to all that hassle you might as well remove the sump to check the oil pump pickup, and then either replace the belts or just replace the engine depending on the extent of damage found.

I don't have any experience with those tools but hopefully another member can comment on that.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, the cam phaser might be worn out now as well.  Or the top end rattle could be due to lack of oil pressure reaching the top end.  This happens as the oil pump clogs up with bits of wetbelt.

I don't think there's much point just checking the timing.  If you're going to all that hassle you might as well remove the sump to check the oil pump pickup, and then either replace the belts or just replace the engine depending on the extent of damage found.

I don't have any experience with those tools but hopefully another member can comment on that.

The good news there is that i pulled the oil pan last year to inspect the screen.  It's possible it has clogged in the last year but when i looked at it 5k miles ago it was basically clean.

Drain the oil and insert an inspection camera into the sump drain hole to inspect the screen on the oil pump.