Hi,

Having difficulties starting a 160k fiesta tdci. I first thought it was the glowplugs, though the lights never come on the dash.

Though I have concerns for the starter motor not holding tight

Popped a video in the Reddit post below if that's allowed.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CarTalkUK/s/3pYfqJ6VEj

This was a week or two ago. Now it's whirring a little after it tries to crank which is making me feel the starter is on its way.

Any pointers would be lovely!

Battery and its connections (How old is it, has it been tested?)
Earth connectors
Starter connectors
Starter & solenoid

Does it get worse as the temperature drops?
Above most likely based on poor cranking, if that's the main symptom?
Glow Plugs
Glow Plug module and wiring
My joke question ... when was the fuel filter last changed!
Any air leaks on the fuel system.
Any fault codes (not using cheap OBD reader as you won't see them)?
Enough pointers for now as I can't see the video helping me, perhaps much, better to give maintenance history and fault codes plus evidence of what testing, inspection and work you have done.
Of course maybe a magician can go straight to the issue, but I can't 🙂

So I put in a new exide battery last year has enough cca, terminals are all fine from what appears, they're all tightened up. No faults on my creader obd device (granted it's a BMW one, but it shows faults for all obd 2 cars) Fuel filter was changed about 16k or so miles ago iirc about 2 years back. I've changed oil every year, filters every year and the fuel filter every other year. Mostly only driven motorway runs for about 50-60 miles a day on average. (Doesn't have dpf as it's just between when they made them mandatory)

Glowplugs never been changed iirc. It was having issues to start with the smoke and rough idle, so I thought plugs are a bit funny, when I get a day off I can pull the wiper tray off and test the ohms. (Don't have amp meter to test the current though)

I thought perhaps the glowplugs mean the starter has been working harder and it's giving up.

Not sure about any leaks, best way to test? Could I read live data and look for a specific fuel rail pressure or...?

Just got back in the car after it's been sat for 6-7 hours (about 6 degrees) left the ignition on while I wrote the above and it started on first crank. Sometimes It won't do that though

The Royal We would always say generic OBD readers on non-Forscan will not pick up Ford specific codes.
Yes to testing fuel rail pressure, demanded vs actual.
Why do you need wiper tray off?
If crank speed isn't high enough, injectors won't open.
Leaks will mean an initial start will show bubbles as fuel will drain back overnight.
Is there any transparent fuel pipe section to observe bubbles?
If any doubt, change fuel filter, if cartridge, check for glitter from pump break up.
On what basis were the plugs changed without any testing at the module??
Is this the Nagares 8 pin unit??
Leaving ignition on may get more heat in, if that works reliably I can only suggest you follow my testing regime to rule out glowplug module but I'm at a very long arms length!

16 minutes ago, Shearers said:

The Royal We would always say generic OBD readers on non-Forscan will not pick up Ford specific codes.
Yes to testing fuel rail pressure, demanded vs actual.
If crank speed isn't high enough, injectors won't open.
Leaks will mean an initial start will show bubbles as fuel will drain back overnight.
Is there any transparent fuel pipe section to observe bubbles?
If any doubt, change fuel filter, if cartridge, check for glitter from pump break up.
On what basis were the plugs changed without any testing at the module??
Is this the Nagares 8 pin unit??
Leaving ignition on may get more heat in, if that works reliably I can only suggest you follow my testing regime to rule out glowplug module but I'm a very long arms length!

Ah, in the past I had used a cheapy Bluetooth reader and that gave codes. But didn't plan on having the fiesta for much longer, though it's great so I don't want to let go.

No clear tube for the diesel, so can't see any bubbles. I might have some spare fuel line clip thingies and some spare clear tube that Ive used to prime the system before that I could install to monitor.

I've not done the glowplugs, they're OEM ones at 160k miles from what I can tell. I've no idea on the module, but iirc they're pretty cheap so Id be wise to swap that out with the plugs when I get to them.

That's the thing, sometimes I've left the ignition on for 2-3 mins and it struggles, unlike to ignt where it went first time. It seems like it is slightly temperamental. The one thing the video doesn't show is the whirring that sounded like perhaps the starter wasn't engaging, which could be a stuck solenoid and would also explain why it does start eventually, right?

I've gotta do my service, so I may as well just buy a new starter when I get all the other bits n bobs I guess

Also adding an audio link to the noise of a failed start from earlier on before the journey I took. Took 3-4 attempts to start properly.

https://voca.ro/13N1eFUxvIkO

The sound doesn't help much other than it is cranking perhaps a bit slow and not starting but I don't know.
Sorry about missing the fact that glow plugs are original, they may still be OK if the resistances were checked.
It looks like you just want to change things without checking for Ford codes doing any diagnostic testing or monitoring live data and that is up to you?
On S-MAX, the glow plugs are a nightmare to get at meaning lots of stuff like EGR has to be removed hence why I did everything else to check them and the module.
As mentioned, e-Bay original module for mine, £60, from Ford £107.
I'd thoroughly test the wiring loom to the plugs if you are down there and hope you come back with a positive report on a solution.

Plugs being behind the engine is a pain for sure. I will test with a multimeter soon, but it seems the starter issue is more prevelent than the glowplugs issue now.

I can hear the starter spin, but it doesn't always seem to crank. Sometimes It cranks a little then disengages. There's a little this sound which is perhaps the solenoid. I don't think there is anything that would show up a bad starter through obd reading, I guess it's a economy ford and not a 5 or 7 series BMW with sensors in everything.

Looks like you are going to focus on starter for the moment.
I'd still charge/test battery (you are always on borrowed time) first then all heavy duty connections and Earth straps for cleanliness and security (watch for cable lugs damaged by poor connection/heat) then be certain (headlamp test bulb) that starter solenoid is getting a signal and ideally making a solid click to pull gear in.
If it spins fast but doesn't crank, the gear isn't being pulled into proper engagement.
if it cranks but slowly it's the electrical issues above or the starter motor itself which I'll have to leave you to decide on?

Intermittent issues, it wouldn't always engage, and would freely spin. Wouldn't always click either. It's out now though

What a pita that was to get too. Couldn't get the ECU off the battery tray as I only have corded grinders and park away from home, so couldn't make a slot in the shear bolt, tried to drill it out to no avail with a socket as a guide so opted to just cut out the battery box mounting points, which worked though primitive (will repair it anyway)

Bit of a tight squeeze to get to, but finally got it out and realised that the replacement ordered from ecp has 2 extra teeth and the pinion gear looks slightly different. The fitment says 10, 12 teeth and to my research it seems that they can be interchangable, but I'm highly concerned about installing it now, have had to miss a day at work also.

Really pickled, but I think perhaps It should be ok, I just can't seem to find much guidance on if it's an ok swap. The original part was 8v2111000ad and the new part is lrs01717

2 hours ago, Cacti said:

8v2111000ad and the new part is lrs01717

I'd definitely check these (different supplier?) part number correctly matches your original!

20 hours ago, Shearers said:

I'd definitely check these (different supplier?) part number correctly matches your original!

Yeah, managed to order one locally for collection for shy of £300 earlier at 10am. Had taxid to and from to collect and install. All I can say is the small nut that goes onto the solenoid is a absolute effer to get back on the solenoid when all you have are axel stands. Took me best part of 30-40 mins, ended up wedily positioning my body so I could get some wrist movement. Couldn't see the ducker when doing it and dropped the nut upwards of 10-15 times. Each time having to slide back out and find the ***** thing.

Peased to say it seems to start up fine touch wood. No random spinning, cranks first time

Still quite smoky, on starting but I'm putting that down to oil in the intercooler and up to the throttle and or the glow plugs, which I've still not tested.