Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.



Join the Independent Ford Owners' Club

Our community has been built by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts, and proudly run by Ford owners' for over 18 years. As an independent, non-official club, everything you’ll find here, advice, support, and opinions, comes directly from members with genuine Ford ownership experience.

Join our friendly community... it's Free!

 

Dpf pressure problems

Featured Replies

I noticed motor oil was overfilled so decided to check codes getting:

P244A – Diesel Particulate Filter Differential Pressure Too Low (Bank 1)

P253F - Engine Oil Deteriorated

occasionally I also got P06DF Glow Plug Control Module 1 Memory Check Sum Error

So i am thinking It haven't been able to regen properly and therefore getting diesel in the oil. I've been procrastinating to take it to a mechanic because they are gonna want to swap the whole dpf I'm sure. So ive been checking the plug for the pressure sensor with a multimeter and it seems alright from what ive seen. Swapped the pressure sensor (although a cheaper aftermarket one). But no improvement. Tried to do a static regeneration but I will just rev up one time then fail the process. Tried dpf cleaner down the pressure hose. Then swapped the glow plug module, and that cleared that code at least. But p244a keep coming back after a day or so.

Any suggestions? Everything is in a tricky place so hard to look for any cracks and leaks. Could the aftermarket sensor be faulty or is the dpf shot? While running on idle it's giving 0kpa to 5kpa.



DPF pressure too low to me, implies a leak or blockage (!) somewhere in the sensor pipework?
Both pipes need blowing through and should not hold any pressure if disconnected from the DPF.
How much cleaner did you actually get into it and was it definitely via the FRONT pipe?
Did the different sensor change the values at all?
May be something with Adblue system but I'm no expert on that?
Need to look at at the values with engine off (0) idle (you have, should be 0.2-1kPa but channel sometimes goes in 5 kPa steps) 3000 rev/min (MAX 10kPa)
Also the soot loadings (You'll need Forscan or a decent scanner, not basic OBD but based on your comments, you have more than a basic one but unsure how far it can go)
DPF is victim of something else, don't let them change it as a new one will block shortly after unless the underlying fault is found (could be glowplugs as one minor (?) possibility)
I know you have tried the spray which would be my first choice but if the sensor system isn't working, you won't see the effect of that?
Wipe your finger on the tailpipe, if any more than a very thin soot coating there may be a crack.
I'd avoid forced regens if at all possible as they can crack the DPF - others disagree but Jimmy doesn't and he's an expert:
https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos/videos
In my dinosaur I have a vaporiser plug but I don't think you do (always worth checking unless someone else can confirm which is likely)
Come back with some data?

  • Author

Just measured the connector again and i noticed i got 5v on both power and signal wire, is that normal? 0 on ground.

  • Author
3 hours ago, Shearers said:

DPF pressure too low to me, implies a leak or blockage (!) somewhere in the sensor pipework?
Both pipes need blowing through and should not hold any pressure if disconnected from the DPF.
How much cleaner did you actually get into it and was it definitely via the FRONT pipe?
Did the different sensor change the values at all?
May be something with Adblue system but I'm no expert on that?
Need to look at at the values with engine off (0) idle (you have, should be 0.2-1kPa but channel sometimes goes in 5 kPa steps) 3000 rev/min (MAX 10kPa)
Also the soot loadings (You'll need Forscan or a decent scanner, not basic OBD but based on your comments, you have more than a basic one but unsure how far it can go)
DPF is victim of something else, don't let them change it as a new one will block shortly after unless the underlying fault is found (could be glowplugs as one minor (?) possibility)
I know you have tried the spray which would be my first choice but if the sensor system isn't working, you won't see the effect of that?
Wipe your finger on the tailpipe, if any more than a very thin soot coating there may be a crack.
I'd avoid forced regens if at all possible as they can crack the DPF - others disagree but Jimmy doesn't and he's an expert:
https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos/videos
In my dinosaur I have a vaporiser plug but I don't think you do (always worth checking unless someone else can confirm which is likely)
Come back with some data?

Sensor on my car only got one pipe going from the dpf, don't know how it works but. Pushed down the nozzle as far it would go before emptying the can. Can't tell how the values changed after replacing it either.

However I tried spraying another can in the hose this evening and then blew some compressed air through it. Cleared the codes and drove around for 30min and it hasn't come back. Will have to see again after some time but, fingers crossed. Tailpipes look clean fortunately.

Was also thinking the vaporizer but haven't really found one, or felt with my hand around the dpf. How does it work without a vaporizer?

I'll attach 2 pictures of forscan after my 30min drive. One at idle and the other at 3000rpm.

IMG_0120.jpeg

IMG_0121.jpeg

If it just has one pipe it is assuming that the pressure at the rear is atmospheric.
If no vaporiser plug on exhaust before DPF then it uses post injection of extra fuel which flows to the DPF and burns the soot to ash (hence the oil dilution problem if regens fail or happen too often)
On a quick look, the soot values are acceptable (low) BUT There doesn't seem to be any increase in pressure at 3000 rev which is definitely not right?

  • Author
8 hours ago, Shearers said:

If it just has one pipe it is assuming that the pressure at the rear is atmospheric.
If no vaporiser plug on exhaust before DPF then it uses post injection of extra fuel which flows to the DPF and burns the soot to ash (hence the oil dilution problem if regens fail or happen too often)
On a quick look, the soot values are acceptable (low) BUT There doesn't seem to be any increase in pressure at 3000 rev which is definitely not right?

The inlet pressure is around 10kpa on 3000rpm, delta pressure shows 0 like always, not sure what is normal.

1 hour ago, ah2 said:

The inlet pressure is around 10kpa on 3000rpm, delta pressure shows 0 like always, not sure what is normal.

I think this is a quirk of your particular ECU.

Usually we would look at DP (differential pressure). But your ECU shows that as inlet pressure instead.

Quirk is right - there seem to be a multitude of variations for no apparent reason leading to a total lack of consistency?
What's the point of having a delta P if it isn't available/not connected/never registers - lazy programming?
Anyway if it's 10kPa at 3000 it is on the borderline of being blocked IMHO so what's the "LOW" pressure code all about? (Confused?)
Back to basics, if you use a spray a la Jimmy and aim to get the pressure down to 4 ish or less at 3000, that would show the DPF is clean and the parameters could be reset telling the car that the DPF is new (if that is even available for this quirky ECU!) then you'd be able to go from there. Don't do this if you're not certain it is clean.
I just don't understand the low code when the pressure seems high?
Only other thing would be to put a pressure gauge/manometer on it to see if the sensor is actually reading correctly and monitor it over a period of time to see if the code returns.
However, due to quirks and my lack of understanding of this particular set up a pinch of salt is required but I hope this helps

  • Author

I have managed to clear all codes regarding dpf, and they have not reappeared. Success. However the oil dilution seem to continue. Even though no dpf regen has occured. I have a 20km commute to work and for every drive the amount of dilution increases by 15-20g. Newly changed oil and no water in the oil.

No other codes are present, could it be injectors? Piston rings?

IMG_0131.JPEG

The DPF parameters, distances travelled, failed regens, look good, even oil dilution % etc look good
I don't like 470g of fuel in oil?
Was this parameter reset when you changed the oil?
Does anyone have any idea if this parameter is accurate, how it is measured etc, at the moment, you haven't said if the level is actually rising?
20g of fuel is, I think about 25 ml so that should be fairly easy to see - add 50 or 100 ml and see if it is visible - then remove some to get a consistent level monitoring process (pipe and syringe down dipstick hole - care or remove sump plug at your own risk!)
Not that I have this problem - it's just what I seem to be able to see?

Latest Deals

Ford UK Shop for genuine Ford parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via the club

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

The "Digestive"






Background Picker
Customize Layout

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.