My 2007 ford transit connect has been having issues with the key not being able to turn any positions. I have currently figured out a knack of jiggling the steering wheel and also pushing the key at the same time. Note this is NOT just the steering lock. In that case you can still turn to 1 or 2 key turns. In this case no turns can be made. It is something happening with the ignition barrel or key itself I have been told.

I was advised to get another key cut to see if that works as it might just be a worn key but I don't know where to get one of these hexagon keys done. It is a 2007 transit connect. Do you go into a normal household key cutter or do you have to go to a garage to get one done?

Other suggestion has been lube the barrel with some special stuff for the job.

Not sure what you mean by hexagon key. There are plenty of auto locksmiths that can come to the car to cut a new blade and program the immobiliser part.

On a 2007 model I suspect the barrel is worn out though. Would just replace the blade and barrel at the same time myself.

7 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Not sure what you mean by hexagon key. There are plenty of auto locksmiths that can come to the car to cut a new blade and program the immobiliser part.

On a 2007 model I suspect the barrel is worn out though. Would just replace the blade and barrel at the same time myself.

Hexagon I mean like it sounds. It is a key with the metal part in the shape of a hexagon at the end or at least something like that. It is round most of the way then hexagon shaped on the end where the grooves are. Maybe that is normal for car keys I don't know? No expert, It is just different to house keys that I am familiar with. I am not long back to driving after 20 years off btw so familiar with any kind of standards.

Will even a 2007 have an immobilizer? Do they have to be at the vehicle or can they do it without just with a key as I have a spare at my mum's which it would be easier to get done with that if so.

Not sure of the proper term of it. Well re the worn out part it was barely used when I bought it. Only under 60k on the clock on a diesel. Only one other owner and apparently they had it in storage most of the time. I have had it just a couple of years and only drive once a week average.

How do I know if the barrel needs replacing or is still ok? No point buying a new one if not needed.

So it does require a special vehicle locksmith not something for a highstreet residential?

35 minutes ago, anotherforduser said:

Hexagon I mean like it sounds. It is a key with the metal part in the shape of a hexagon at the end or at least something like that. It is round most of the way then hexagon shaped on the end where the grooves are. Maybe that is normal for car keys I don't know? No expert, It is just different to house keys that I am familiar with. I am not long back to driving after 20 years off btw so familiar with any kind of standards.

Will even a 2007 have an immobilizer? Do they have to be at the vehicle or can they do it without just with a key as I have a spare at my mum's which it would be easier to get done with that if so.

Not sure of the proper term of it. Well re the worn out part it was barely used when I bought it. Only under 60k on the clock on a diesel. Only one other owner and apparently they had it in storage most of the time. I have had it just a couple of years and only drive once a week average.

How do I know if the barrel needs replacing or is still ok? No point buying a new one if not needed.

So it does require a special vehicle locksmith not something for a highstreet residential?

There are a few different styles of Ford key. I'm still not sure which type you mean unfortunately. I think it will be a Tibbe key for this age of van.

2007 will definitely have an immobiliser. Most cars had them by the end of the 1990's.

If you have a spare key then try that one in your ignition barrel. If the barrel sticks with both keys then obviously the fault is not with the key itself, and would point to the barrel instead. Though re-reading your initial post, I'm no longer convinced that it isn't the steering lock. If you apply the steering lock on purpose, can you really still turn the key to position 2?

Immobiliser codes can be 'cloned' by places like Timpsons, meaning that a key can be made away from the car, but that is not the most secure way to do it. Also Timpsons are incredibly expensive, a local auto locksmith is likely to be cheaper, as well as do a better job.

I worked at Ford in the early 2010's and the older Transit barrels were often getting stiff at the time. Low mileage on a Transit usually means multidrop work which puts a huge amount of wear on a key barrel. But if you are sure it's rarely been used then perhaps it is just dirty rather than worn. You can buy graphite lubricant specifically to be used in lock barrels for this purpose.

Thanks for the tips.

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

There are a few different styles of Ford key. I'm still not sure which type you mean unfortunately. I think it will be a Tibbe key for this age of van.

I think Tibbe does ring a bell when I mentioned the issue somewhere else a little while ago.

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

2007 will definitely have an immobiliser. Most cars had them by the end of the 1990's.

If you have a spare key then try that one in your ignition barrel. If the barrel sticks with both keys then obviously the fault is not with the key itself, and would point to the barrel instead.

Indeed I want to try a spare but that is why I said it is at my mum's (not local, about 2 hours away) so am not able to try it. That is why we want to get a second spare, rather than risk sending the only spare and losing it in the post, then she can send the new one for me to try. I only have the main one with me and no plans of going down there at the moment. That is why I asked if she would be able to get another cut her end without the vehicle present as I figure a new spare would be better than my possibly worn existing one, plus it is just easier as she is nearer a town than me and I don't go out much.

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Though re-reading your initial post, I'm no longer convinced that it isn't the steering lock. If you apply the steering lock on purpose, can you really still turn the key to position 2?

Well the lock applies when I jiggle the steering wheel sometimes but when I say apply pressure I mean on the key, as in to get the key to turn, if it jams, then I depress it more onto the keyhole than one usually would while also turning the wheel - not sure if the wheel turning is required but I think that is just because the lock applies at some time. Not exactly sure of the sequential process, only that I found a knack of getting it unstuck by doing all the above with the important part being pushing the key more firmly in until I feel it 'bite' somehow then release something which allows the key to turn again, if that is any indicator of possible cause?

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

But if you are sure it's rarely been used then perhaps it is just dirty rather than worn. You can buy graphite lubricant specifically to be used in lock barrels for this purpose.

Worth a shot. Do I have to get this special stuff rather than just what a bit of bike oil in? I do not have ready access to supplies due to being very rural and no working mail address so it is better if I can improvise but will buy the proper stuff if definitely needed.

Btw another symptom which may be pertinent. I noticed it happens worst when I would arrive back in my drive and parked at a specific spot. At first I thought that was an awful coincidence but after 3 times noticing it I thought there might be something more to it. It is on a bit of an angle so the van is pitched sideways a bit while the wheel might be turned a bit having reversed round a bit of a curve. So don't know if that might help diagnose the cause because it does seem to happen in that spot most acutely that I have noticed several times.

1 hour ago, anotherforduser said:

Do I have to get this special stuff rather than just what a bit of bike oil in?

Yes. Do not put any type of wet oil into a lock barrel. It will just stick all the dirt and dust together and work like a cutting polish to wear out the barrel plates even more quickly. Only use graphite or silicone spray as both of those are dry lubricants.

1 hour ago, anotherforduser said:

I figure a new spare would be better than my possibly worn existing one, plus it is just easier as she is nearer a town than me and I don't go out much.

Sorry but I think you're massively overcomplicating this. It's much cheaper just to buy a new ignition barrel and keys. I don't understand how your Mum would send you a new key if you don't have a mailing address. Also the keys and barrels wear at the same rate. Buying a fresh cut key may not work in your partly worn barrel.

For Ford Transit MK7 4355452 Ignition Switch & Lock Barrel Cylinder + 2 Keys Set | eBay UK

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes. Do not put any type of wet oil into a lock barrel. It will just stick all the dirt and dust together and work like a cutting polish to wear out the barrel plates even more quickly. Only use graphite or silicone spray as both of those are dry lubricants.

Ok.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Sorry but I think you're massively overcomplicating this. It's much cheaper just to buy a new ignition barrel and keys. I don't understand how your Mum would send you a new key if you don't have a mailing address.

You can collect packages from depots and pickup points that's how.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Also the keys and barrels wear at the same rate. Buying a fresh cut key may not work in your partly worn barrel.

For Ford Transit MK7 4355452 Ignition Switch & Lock Barrel Cylinder + 2 Keys Set | eBay UK

Well seems my mum has gotten me one cut while she was out today, as she just emailed me to inform me, using the spare. So will try that first.

Looking at the link I didn't know the barrel was such a small thing like that. I was envisioning some huge job with a name like barrel taking lots of work and cost for replacement parts to replace.

37 minutes ago, anotherforduser said:

You can collect packages from depots and pickup points that's how.

For future use, Ebay and Amazon also allow you to collect from pickup points.

16 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

For future use, Ebay and Amazon also allow you to collect from pickup points.

I am well aware of all options but I don't use either amazon or ebay.

My mum told me she paid 90 quid for the key which annoying when I saw those offered for 20 quid but can't be helped as I did not have that information at the time. Just hope it helps and not wasted! She told me something about the lady did something with the transponder at the time while cutting it too?

If it is the barrel I at least hope I can use the new key with the new transponder so it wouldn't be a total waste?

6 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

For Ford Transit MK7 4355452 Ignition Switch & Lock Barrel Cylinder + 2 Keys Set | eBay UK

I think the key depicted there must be what he meant by hexagon. I expect you've figured that out already, but for the benefit of future readers, this seems to be the type of key at issue, with the tip having six sides to it:

2 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

My mum told me she paid 90 quid for the key which annoying when I saw those offered for 20 quid but can't be helped as I did not have that information at the time. Just hope it helps and not wasted! She told me something about the lady did something with the transponder at the time while cutting it too?

Ouch.

The keys contain a 'transponder chip'. When you insert the key into the ignition barrel and try to start the vehicle, a 'transceiver ring' around the barrel (a separate part to the barrel itself) wirelessly causes the transponder chip in the key to transmit its ID number, which is picked up by the transceiver ring. This ID is then checked against the IDs that have previously been programmed into the security system. If the ID is recognised, the vehicle is started. If the ID is not recognised, the vehicle won't start.

A new key will have its own unique ID, however without the vehicle, the new ID can't be added to the vehicle's system, so what a shop will have done is simply changed the ID in the new key's transponder chip to be identical to that of the key she gave to them, and thus the new key is identical to the old spare as far as the vehicle's security system is concerned.

Note that even if she could have taken the actual vehicle to the shop, they wouldn't likely have had the capability of programming it into the vehicle, you'd typically need an auto(motive)-locksmith or garage to do that. Also note that garages don't tend to have key cutting capabilities. I.e., garages can change your barrel and maybe program a new key into your vehicle, but can't normally do key cutting or transponder ID cloning (where desired). Normal key shops can cut or provide new keys, and may be able to "clone" a transponder chip ID from an existing key to the new one (where desired), but not program a vehicle with a new key ID or replace barrels. An auto-locksmith, who would typically come to you in a van, would typically be able to do all of these things (cutting keys, cloning IDs where desired, programming new key IDs into a vehicle's security system, and maybe even replacing barrels).

3 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

If it is the barrel I at least hope I can use the new key with the new transponder so it wouldn't be a total waste?

I'm not sure and am curious about this. My key has a traditional pin-based design, so it relies upon physical security as well as digital transponder ID security. I'm not sure that there's anything at all physically unique about these hexagon types. They may rely only on the digital transponder ID, and be physically capable of fitting and turning any barrel designed for them, so it may well work with a replacement barrel if you get one.

3 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

I am well aware of all options but I don't use either amazon or ebay.

My mum told me she paid 90 quid for the key which annoying when I saw those offered for 20 quid but can't be helped as I did not have that information at the time. Just hope it helps and not wasted! She told me something about the lady did something with the transponder at the time while cutting it too?

If it is the barrel I at least hope I can use the new key with the new transponder so it wouldn't be a total waste?

This depends on whether your Mum bought a buttons fob with a removable blade or not.

If you can remove the blade from the new key fob, then yes you can keep the old transponder and just fit a new blade.

If it's just a solid key then it won't work with a new barrel as linked above. You can buy kits to build a new barrel to the same code as your existing key blade, but last time I checked they were very expensive.

14 minutes ago, rd457 said:

think the key depicted there must be what he meant by hexagon. I expect you've figured that out already, but for the benefit of future readers, this seems to be the type of key at issue, with the tip having six sides to it:

Yeah, that is a Tibbe key.

I get it now, the hexagon is from the barrel's point of view.

Don't think I've ever looked down the tip of a key like that myself!

22 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yeah, that is a Tibbe key.

Ah, great, thanks!

So it seems that they do actually have a degree of physical security, with somewhat subtle angles cut into the side of the 'hexagon' bit.

So yeah, if you get a new barrel, for the new key to fit, either (a) you need a new barrel that comes with a kit of all the different shapes/sizes of the equivalent to pins, so you can build a new lock that fits the key, or (b) if you get a cheap replacement barrel that comes with a key, either you need to have the security system programmed to that new key, or you'd need the new spare to be a kind that you can disassemble into two pieces, same as the new key, with the 'hexagon' cut bit being one piece, and the plastic bit containing the transponder being the other, so you can swap the plastic bit containing the transponder chip to the new hexagon shaped bit.

Edit: come to think of it, since the key will be used for the doors not just the ignition barrel, of course it would have to have some physical security. 🤦‍♂️

@anotherforduser Please keep us posted as to whether the new key works or not! I'm intrigued.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

10 hours ago, rd457 said:

I think the key depicted there must be what he meant by hexagon. I expect you've figured that out already, but for the benefit of future readers, this seems to be the type of key at issue, with the tip having six sides to it:

Yes like that.

10 hours ago, rd457 said:

Ouch.

The keys contain a 'transponder chip'. When you insert the key into the ignition barrel and try to start the vehicle, a 'transceiver ring' around the barrel (a separate part to the barrel itself) wirelessly causes the transponder chip in the key to transmit its ID number, which is picked up by the transceiver ring. This ID is then checked against the IDs that have previously been programmed into the security system. If the ID is recognised, the vehicle is started. If the ID is not recognised, the vehicle won't start.

A new key will have its own unique ID, however without the vehicle, the new ID can't be added to the vehicle's system, so what a shop will have done is simply changed the ID in the new key's transponder chip to be identical to that of the key she gave to them, and thus the new key is identical to the old spare as far as the vehicle's security system is concerned.

Ok, so what is the problem with doing it this way? So long as it works it seems like a perfectly fine way of doing it unless I am missing something?

10 hours ago, rd457 said:

Note that even if she could have taken the actual vehicle to the shop, they wouldn't likely have had the capability of programming it into the vehicle, you'd typically need an auto(motive)-locksmith or garage to do that. Also note that garages don't tend to have key cutting capabilities. I.e., garages can change your barrel and maybe program a new key into your vehicle, but can't normally do key cutting or transponder ID cloning (where desired). Normal key shops can cut or provide new keys, and may be able to "clone" a transponder chip ID from an existing key to the new one (where desired), but not program a vehicle with a new key ID or replace barrels. An auto-locksmith, who would typically come to you in a van, would typically be able to do all of these things (cutting keys, cloning IDs where desired, programming new key IDs into a vehicle's security system, and maybe even replacing barrels).

I'm not sure and am curious about this. My key has a traditional pin-based design, so it relies upon physical security as well as digital transponder ID security. I'm not sure that there's anything at all physically unique about these hexagon types. They may rely only on the digital transponder ID, and be physically capable of fitting and turning any barrel designed for them, so it may well work with a replacement barrel if you get one.

Ok so from the above it seems that even at 90 quid it was not so bad after all? compared to the other options which sound much more involved and no guarantees of success, or capability of services, either. Maybe I paid the highest price but it seems the most straight forward, that is of course if it works and solves the issue, which remains to be seen.

Also I would imagine that an auto mechanic call out would come to far more than 90? with probably at least 50 just to show up, then parts and work costs.

I think I might get the spray for her to send at the same time as it can't hurt either way eh?

The Tibbe key design is arguably one of the worst key designs. It was used by Ford Motor Company in Europe from the late 1980s to the early 2000s on most models. After that period, the Tibbe design was phased out and replaced by the Sidewinder key design on all newly developed Ford models. The Sidewinder design is still used today on most Ford models and is much more resistant to wear.

I am actually surprised that a 2007 Transit Connect still used the Tibbe design, while the passenger cars it shares many parts with—like the Focus Mk2 and C-Max Mk1—already used the Sidewinder key for Years at that time.

The Tibbe key is infamous for excessive wear of both the key blades and the internal lock plates. Over time, both the key and lock plates develop the same wear pattern, eventually making the key unable to operate the lock.

When a Tibbe key can no longer operate the lock, the only reliable solution is to replace both the key blades and the worn locks. Simply replacing the key blade alone is rarely successful. Common problems include:

• The new key blade cannot operate the lock because the original key code no longer matches the worn lock plates.

• The new key blade operates the lock but wears out quickly due to the excessively worn lock plates.

• The new key blade works initially but accelerates wear on the lock plates, eventually causing the lock to fail again.

There is, however, a small chance that a new key may work for a few months or even years, so it’s always worth trying.

Since Tibbe keys are now obsolete and require specific key-cutting tools, fewer locksmiths are able to cut them, which partly explains their high cost. Many people now order pre-cut keys from China for less than €10. The key code can be visually identified from either the original key or the lock plates.

Regarding PATS transponder chips on the Transit Connect:

• Vehicles manufactured before ~08/2007 use the 4D60 transponder chip with 40-bit encryption.

• Vehicles manufactured after ~08/2007 use the 4D63 transponder chip, which may use either 40-bit or 80-bit encryption depending on the version.

These transponder chips are not interchangeable. They contain a fixed code that must be programmed to the car. In other words, the car is programmed to the key, not the other way around.

If a key you purchased already has a transponder “programmed” by reading an original key, it doesn’t contain an original Ford transponder. Instead, it contains a third-party transponder that replicates the original. In other words, a cloned key.

8 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

Ok, so what is the problem with doing it this way? So long as it works it seems like a perfectly fine way of doing it unless I am missing something?

There's no problem with it. The impression that I've picked up over time is that each key having its own unique ID is generally preferable. The only thing that comes to mind as to why is what would happen if a key were lost or stolen.

If I recall correctly the security systems for whatever reason tend to require a minimum of two keys with unique IDs when reprogramming them (you can't just add/remove individual keys, you have to reset the system and then re-add all keys). So you'd need at least two keys with unique IDs to be in a position to reprogram the system, for one thing. So if you only have one key, and then get a clone of it, you can't use those two keys to reprogram the system.

Let's say you had two keys with unique IDs and then lost one. You could then get a new key with its own unique ID, and have the system reset and reprogrammed with the original that you didn't loose and this new key. The one that was lost/stolen now cannot start the vehicle. Whereas if you have three keys, with one being a clone of another, and you lost one of the clones, you can't just have the system reprogrammed to lock out that third lost/stolen key. You'd have to buy a new key with its own unique ID, and have that and the unique non-cloned original reprogrammed into the vehicle, and then you'd have to throw away the one that was a clone of the lost/stolen one.

9 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

Also I would imagine that an auto mechanic call out would come to far more than 90? with probably at least 50 just to show up, then parts and work costs.

Perhaps, I've thankfully never had the need to use one so I don't know how much they'd likely charge.

9 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

Ok so from the above it seems that even at 90 quid it was not so bad after all?

I was reacting to the price difference compared to the £10 replacement barrel and keys, but of course you'd have to have the vehicle reprogrammed to those keys, so no, whatever way you look at it, sorting the problem would likely set you back a similar amount, unless you already happened to have the necessary stuff to reprogram keys yourself with forscan (presuming key reprogramming for your vehicle model were supported by forscan).

However as others have pointed out, you will most likely need a replacement barrel, so this new cloned spare key may well prove to unfortunately have been a waste of money.

On 2/20/2026 at 9:00 PM, RusSKill said:

@anotherforduser Please keep us posted as to whether the new key works or not! I'm intrigued.

Oh balls. Well I got the key today and the behaviour is exactly the same as with the old one. 😠

One thing of note though is that it is not 100% like that, sometimes there will be smooth turning and sometimes not so if it was the barrel having worn down wouldn't it always be stuck? Also I notice the little metal flap which snaps open and shut when the keys is in/out also gets stuck open which does make me wonder if it is just sticking and requires some of the graphite spray?

I read online, or was it this thread, maybe another thread when searching, that an old trick is to use pencil graphite grated on the key and insert it. Is that a cheaper way than buying the spray?

I would really like to avoid having making the existing keys redundant so failing that are there no options to keep the current keys or would they turn out more than new barrel and keys as a set? It was discussed above that the cost would be having a mechanic do it but perhaps I could do the barrel myself in which case the reprogramming new keys would make it more expensive which I do not imagine I could easily do myself thus precipitating a costly call out?

The graphite spray is the last chance saloon for the old keys?

You can use graphite from a pencil but it is not pure. Clay is used to form pencil leads.

Not sure how you'd get grated lead into the barrel effectively. The better option would be to 'draw' pencil lead over the key blade instead.

Barrels to build your own code are more expensive than pre-built random code barrels. I think this is the correct one for your key, without using eBay.

Ford Online Shop UK

STEERING COLUMN IGNITION LOCK REPAIR KIT 1976-2013

---COMPATIBLE-INFO--- ---DESCRIPTION--- This product carries a £0 surcharge. This is a refundable deposit, repaid to you when we receive your surcharge product back. We will happily refund your surcha

19 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

You can use graphite from a pencil but it is not pure. Clay is used to form pencil leads.

Not sure how you'd get grated lead into the barrel effectively. The better option would be to 'draw' pencil lead over the key blade instead.

Barrels to build your own code are more expensive than pre-built random code barrels. I think this is the correct one for your key, without using eBay.

Ford Online Shop UK

STEERING COLUMN IGNITION LOCK REPAIR KIT 1976-2013

---COMPATIBLE-INFO--- ---DESCRIPTION--- This product carries a £0 surcharge. This is a refundable deposit, repaid to you when we receive your surcharge product back. We will happily refund your surcha

Thanks, i was not getting notifications for some reason of new replies.

Ye on the post I read they did mention something about putting the pencil lead on the key and then inserting that.

If the spray is just a few quid and would work better would just use that.

EDIT: Ah the spray is only 4 quid! not much different that the price of a pack of pencils! https://accessfobs.co.uk/products/timco-instant-contact-adhesive-spray

Note: I thought I had the wrong url but it is right when you follow the link, just the url seems wrong! Just a site fault where they didn't update the url I guess.

Ok the price is not bad on the link you gave at 60 quid but say they require specialist knowledge. Is that a 'here be dragons' to scare off most while still being doable by a layman or is it going to require a call out from a professional for practical purposes since I won't have specialist gear to set it up?

1 minute ago, anotherforduser said:

Ok the price is not bad on the link you gave at 60 quid but say they require specialist knowledge. Is that a 'here be dragons' to scare off most while still being doable by a layman or is it going to require a call out from a professional for practical purposes since I won't have specialist gear to set it up?

That's just a generic get-out clause to absolve themselves of any responsibility.

It is possible to build the barrel up yourself without any special tools. You just need to work out the code from your key, or split open the old barrel to work out the code from there instead.

Each of those plates is coded with a number from 1-6. The kit comes with more plates than you need, and obviously you have to put them in the correct order otherwise the key won't work.

It is fiddly to do, but I've done it myself in the past so not impossible.

15 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

That's just a generic get-out clause to absolve themselves of any responsibility.

It is possible to build the barrel up yourself without any special tools. You just need to work out the code from your key, or split open the old barrel to work out the code from there instead.

Each of those plates is coded with a number from 1-6. The kit comes with more plates than you need, and obviously you have to put them in the correct order otherwise the key won't work.

It is fiddly to do, but I've done it myself in the past so not impossible.

Thanks, I do like a good tinker myself so sounds doable from your explanation.

On 2/27/2026 at 1:33 PM, TomsFocus said:

That's just a generic get-out clause to absolve themselves of any responsibility.

It is possible to build the barrel up yourself without any special tools. You just need to work out the code from your key, or split open the old barrel to work out the code from there instead.

Each of those plates is coded with a number from 1-6. The kit comes with more plates than you need, and obviously you have to put them in the correct order otherwise the key won't work.

It is fiddly to do, but I've done it myself in the past so not impossible.

Right, I got the graphite today and gave a few good bursts in there, as far as I could tell as hard to see how much is going in but tried several squeezes as well as dousing on the key, and no change that I could notice.

So on to the barrel. Hmm I just thought I have to use the van, usually just once a week for shopping, so do not want to be left high and dry part way through! How long did it take you? and how long would it take me with no experience, estimated? :)

Probably better to leave it until I visit my mum's when the mot is due to be done as she could go buy me food if it took longer than expected.

9 minutes ago, anotherforduser said:

So on to the barrel. Hmm I just thought I have to use the van, usually just once a week for shopping, so do not want to be left high and dry part way through! How long did it take you? and how long would it take me with no experience, estimated? :)

Probably better to leave it until I visit my mum's when the mot is due to be done as she could go buy me food if it took longer than expected.

Well, I don't think it'll take you an entire week! 😬

If you were given the code with the key that was cut, or can work it out from looking at the fresh cut key, then you can build the new barrel before removing the old one.

It only took about 10 minutes to remove the barrel. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing the process. Just have to remove the plastic cowl behind the wheel. Then press a little tab in on the barrel while pulling with the key at position 2.

I needed to strip my barrel to work out the code to get a new key cut. Seem to remember it took around an hour to strip down the barrel and then rebuild it again. But I was taking care to do it all carefully, lay out each piece in order, and then the same in reverse.

Overall it really should be done within a few hours maximum.

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

Well, I don't think it'll take you an entire week! 😬

If you were given the code with the key that was cut, or can work it out from looking at the fresh cut key, then you can build the new barrel before removing the old one.

It only took about 10 minutes to remove the barrel. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing the process. Just have to remove the plastic cowl behind the wheel. Then press a little tab in on the barrel while pulling with the key at position 2.

I needed to strip my barrel to work out the code to get a new key cut. Seem to remember it took around an hour to strip down the barrel and then rebuild it again. But I was taking care to do it all carefully, lay out each piece in order, and then the same in reverse.

Overall it really should be done within a few hours maximum.

Haha well I just know from other things that what seems like a 'quick 15 minute job' can end up taking days or even weeks when you suddenly find you are missing xyz piece which you only find out after the fact. 😄

I am just very aware of not wanting to get stranded as I am 2 hours away from her and don't know anyone here (very rural) to ask for a favour. Limited tools, though most of the basics and I can use her garage then. What tools for the whole process? See if have have them otherwise it will be a moot point. 😁

The van is my way to get stuff in such eventualities I am working on things so I would be scuppered if I lost that. Have got a bike but several miles from the nearest small town.

Current one is still 'working' right now, with the pushing in trick. Might get more confidence about fitting the new one if it is easy to get at to take a look when I see what is up. Being able to set it before installing would be great and just a quick switch of disconnect/reconnect once I get at it?

I do remember changing the alternator sounded very daunting before I did it but once I saw what was going on it was straight forward. It was just the access and being very fiddly when on the floor rather than the vehicle elevated which made that take so long, which was the best part of a day.

I will see how it is once I get the barrel.

Hmm can you expand a bit on how I would program from the new key?