Hi all, I am looking at the rear brakes on my 2009 Ford Focus Mk2 Hatchback (Think it is a MK2 for this year?) and I cannot tell whether the wheel bearing is included as part of the brake drum or not? I am trying to resurrect this car after it has stood for more than 2 years and do not want to invest too much money on it until I have definitely got it back on the road. Can anybody tell me if the rear drums incorporate the wheel bearing and if so are they likely to be a part that I could change myself on the driveway or would it need a press? Any advice greatly appreciated.

1 hour ago, ReggieMac said:

Hi all, I am looking at the rear brakes on my 2009 Ford Focus Mk2 Hatchback (Think it is a MK2 for this year?) and I cannot tell whether the wheel bearing is included as part of the brake drum or not? I am trying to resurrect this car after it has stood for more than 2 years and do not want to invest too much money on it until I have definitely got it back on the road. Can anybody tell me if the rear drums incorporate the wheel bearing and if so are they likely to be a part that I could change myself on the driveway or would it need a press? Any advice greatly appreciated.

Is it 2009 or 2006? Zetec Climate was only available up to 2007 as far as I'm aware, so presumably this one is 2006. That makes it Mk2 pre-facelift.

The wheel bearing not part of the drum on these. It's part of the hub instead. I can't quite work out whether you want to replace the bearing or the drum here? (Neither should need replacing).

You are quite correct, I made a mistake as it is a 2006, not 2009, vehicle. I am looking at replacing the brakes all round, I am quite happy doing the front disks and pads but just wasn't sure of the rear drums. I am assuming that they have rusted which is the main reason I am thinking of replacement.
I did have a thought that if I drove it for a little while (have a remote service road that I can use) using the brakes often and gently would get rid of any excess rust and maybe I might get away with just replacing the front pads and shoes?
Anybody any thoughts on that idea?

I honestly wouldn't bother touching the drums at all. Likely to cause more problems trying to get them off.

The fronts pads will be fine as long as they've still got plenty of meat left. (Which they should have if it was serviced just before being parked!)

Take it up that private road and hit the brakes a few times. Should all clean up well enough to pass MOT.

Obviously if you can feel one sticking, or not working at all, then they'll need some attention. But I really wouldn't waste £500 replacing the whole lot front and rear just for the sake of it.

Drum - 1743443 - https://ebay.us/m/e3xeVW

Shoes - 1689600 - https://ebay.us/m/yiJir7

That sounds like a great idea, it is going for an MOT tomorrow so I can see the scale of any problems so should be able to clean the brakes up enough on the way there. 🫡

46 minutes ago, ReggieMac said:

That sounds like a great idea, it is going for an MOT tomorrow so I can see the scale of any problems so should be able to clean the brakes up enough on the way there. 🫡

Try to get the cat nice and hot as well (higher revs before changing gear) as that should help it pass the emissions test.

On the Focus MK2/MK2.5 the brake drums are clamped between the wheel hub and the wheel.



To inspect and clean the rear brakes, the drum can easily be pulled off the hub.

In theory, at least.

From the factory, Ford did not apply any lubricant or corrosion protection between the mating surfaces of the hub and the brake drum. As a result, unless the drum has been removed before, in reality it is very likely that it will be seized solid to the hub.

Ooh, dont like the sound of that but I suppose I will find out pretty quick if it is going to come off or not! I assume a very seized one would require a puller to get it off?

At less than eight years old, the brake drums on my Focus Mk2 were completely seized. Externally, they still had their original factory black paint and showed no visible signs of corrosion.

It took a considerable amount of force, using a large puller and some heat from a torch, to remove them. Unfortunately, the force and heat caused the drums to warp, so I decided to convert the rear brakes to disc brakes.

A liberal squirt of WD40 and persuasion with a hammer usually work for me if the drum is seized on, but be careful not to hit the wheel studs (put the nuts loosely on the studs to protect them 😉)

I am absolutely gobsmacked! I drove the car to the MOT test, gently using the brakes often so as to free off any surface rust and amazingly the car passed the MOT! Not even an advisory, amazing!.