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lasse1955

Fix Durashift Gearbox Problem Easy.

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greengumbo:   you sure about the wiring ?  can look good, but wire can be broken inside. this can cause intermittent connection.  good luck.

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12 hours ago, TTT said:

greengumbo:   you sure about the wiring ?  can look good, but wire can be broken inside. this can cause intermittent connection.  good luck.

Not totally sure but how to check for certain without stripping the coloured wiring ? No bulges as far as I could see though.

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I always use battery and buzzer. wiggle and stretch the wires to encourage any break to show up.

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would a continuity multimeter do the job ? sorry if stupid question !

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25 minutes ago, greengumbo said:

would a continuity multimeter do the job ? sorry if stupid question !

Yes, especially if it has a buzzer. Its so much easier to 'hear' an intermittent connection.

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Finally got round to checking wiring. All good with continuity.

Cars been sitting for a few weeks now so battery is kaput. 

Still holding off taking the plunge on clutch ecu unit refurb as I really think its something to do with the ABS. The gear warning comes on when I depress the brakes and ABS is on all the time.

Will check ABS sensors with low volt meter. Manual reckons they should read 1.5 - 2v when wheel is spun.

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Me again.  Can't belive this. 3 months ago I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and until a week ago had no durashift issues. Last Saturday I was approaching a roundabout and the car just stayed in 5th and finally stalled in the outside Lane. Since then it picks and chooses it's own times to work or not work. 

I can go out to it,  won't work,  go in the house for 2 minutes,  try again, works.. 5 minutes later not working.. What is it! I'm about sick of it now :unsure:

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Hmmmm, don't think so,  it's not setting that fail code like last time but who knows,  I'll check the wiring around it.

The symptoms change every time I go out to the car. It started half an hour ago,  stopped it and now it's got a blank LCD gear display again.. Half an hour from now it will be working again. Common theme though apparently. 

 

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just did as posting said and it worked perfectly only thing i did differently was to ream both sides great post saved us a fortune thanks lasse

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Hi.

I had clutch actuator rebuild. However.. I found it impossible to inject fluid into the gearbox valve instead I had to reverse bleed by drawing  fluid out the bleed valve and topping up reservoir. I started car after deleting error codes. Stuck in reverse CRUUNCH. Transmission light came on. Scanned. Got 'gear shift position' code. Wiggled stick. N light came on. Deleted codes. Transmission light went out. Back to square 1. I know I need to get fluid in somehow. HEEEELP. I am an unpaid volunteer driver. I NEED my car. It won't let me put fluid into valve. Only draw it out. Is there a slave cylinder on this car?

 

Any help MOOCHO GRASSY !Removed!. 😊

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You need to force the brake fluid in through the bleed nipple.  We removed the battery to make it easier to get to.  Read my posts on page 4, and you will see we had the exact same problem as you with the "crunch" 😉

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Hi guys I want to Thank "lasse1955" for brilliant illustration of the Fiesta Semi auto Gear box repair. I had the same problem with my mum's 2003 fiesta

which had this horrible semi auto box and having problem of not changing gears. After reading your article took a courage to tackle the problem as every one else

asking over 600 pound to repair. Done exact what was said & with a code reader reset fault code. It's running lovely now. Thanks very much for posting the article with

excellent photos.

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On 05/03/2016 at 1:35 AM, Harryzz said:

Just completed this on a 2007 1.4 Lx fiesta. Works a treat. If anybody needs advise on this topic I am happy to help. Based in Ireland. Thanks a million to the original poster!! 

 

Harry, don't suppose you could help me out? Bought a 2005 fiesta finesse semi auto with durashift two weeks ago won't start. Spent all my savings, devastated. I unfortunately know virtually nothing about cars whatsoever. I am in county down. Got p0300 error then p0700. I don't have the money to take it to a garage at the moment so I'm stuck.

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Hey fellas - my Fiesta 2003 exhibits many of the durashift problems described here and my local Ford dealer has given a preliminary assessment pending full investigation with a quote of £1800!!! Can't afford to repair or replace the motor so after reading the posts I shall be having a go - nothing to lose eh.  Many thanks to all you awesome contributors and especially Lasse1955 and Lula for posting pix and diagrams which will guide me when I get the car back.   

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Please help --- (my car is ford fusion durashift EST semi automatic, just not start).

When removing the 3 bolts to loose the shift actuator, i got  STRIPPED & STUCK SCREWS and really could not turn it any more, any suggestions please? 

Untitled.png

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Fiesta 2005 year,1.4 HDI semi automatic.When the outside temperature is less than 4 degrees Celsius car won't start and then the blinking light N,sometimes shines and the red light of transmissions.When the outside temperature is over 4 degrees Celsius car works normally,the gearbox and the engine are working perfectly and automatically and manually mod.Can you help me?

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On 1/18/2016 at 1:49 PM, mr_chaela said:

@ Eurodat

post-53172-0-05341700-1453125268_thumb.j

Tongue to break

post-53172-0-32345400-1453125263_thumb.j

Brush on left is replacement I got from Ebay.

Brush on right shows how it should look after reshaping, the brush shown was my first attempt and didn't work because it was a carbon brush (should have been copper carbon with zero resistance), the thin braid would probably have burnt out with the current it has to take.

Hi,

I'd really appreciate it if you could let me know whereabouts on Ebay I might be able to find the same brushes as you ended up using please.

Many thanks,
Dave

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Update:

Just in case anyone else has the misfortune of having to fix one of these, I can confirm that it was worn brushes inside my actuator that was causing the P0810 fault code and no-drive problem.

To save anyone needing to bleed their hydraulics, I can confirm that there are two T25 security Torx screws, located at the very bottom of the actuator, which need to be removed. There is another 10mm bolt at the top and two TCU harness plugs to be removed. After removing these, the main unit can be drawn upwards, leaving the hydraulic cylinder in place.

The brushes are most definitely CARBON, and not copper-bronze as someone suggested earlier. They are generic 6.5mm x 6.5mm x 12mm T41 types - these are on Ebay.

When I removed the stator from the armature, lots of carbon dust fell out, and the tensioned spring started to turn the motor.  Therefore the dust was causing the motor to also jam!

Earlier, I also stripped down the gear-actuator motors.  Someone mentioned earlier not to allow the motor to turn whilst the unit is apart.  This is unnecessary because the motor-turn ratio is much higher than that of the gears, so the TCU uses a Hall-effect IC to reposition the armature. Basically, don't worry about anything turning anywhere whilst working on any of the above parts.

Hope this helps someone one day.

 

Dave

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dave.mckiernan.  Excellent post. Very helpull - thanks.   I'm sure these brushes wear out quick if they are "scratching" because of lime scale ( or whatever ) - perhaps another reason to use WD40 ?

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Hello everyone!

 

I would start this post greeting to Lasse1955 (who was the one that started the thread) and everyone else that has replied contributing in the thread.

 

I have a Fusion ’04 1.4 TDCI DURASHIFT EST (EST stands for the semi-automatic  variant of this gearbox, the manual one being named “DURASHIFT” only) with 169.000 km. and the problem was that, after replacing the clutch kit, I could’t get the car to engage the shifts, so I started to retrieve the web and came to this fantastic forum.

Moreover, I had additionally replace the dual mass flywheel by a conventional (single mass) that I have got from a manual unit from wreckage, so I have the doubt if this could be the origin of the problem.

After researching through the entire thread (plus another one also very useful to me: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/62961-durashift-fix-using-ebay-type-vcm-diagnostic/), I came to the conclusion that the car could be set to go on the road and I started to bleed the clutch once more and the first thing I noticed was that the bleeding procedure can be done very easily: since every time you turn the ignition key on the clutch is activated, so don’t have to push neither pump. Add to this that you put a transparent hose while you are bleeding (turn ignition on/off several times) so you are able to see the bubbles through the windshield and that’s done.

Finally, after bleeding the clutch several times, the car is actually running, although, I have to admit it, is still very “hard” on shift changes, but I suppose this is a matter of time, because the ECU will have to “relearn” all the new spares that have been installed on it (clutch disc, single mass flywheel, pressure plate & pilot bearing).

Thanks to everyone for this fantastic forum.

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