Hi all I have posted before and thank you all for your advice. I still have high idle and odd humm when moving I took it back to were I got as still under warranty and they have done the following

New gearbox

Wheel barings all round

Check for warped and sticking breaks

And for the high idle

Cleaned the idle control valve etc

However still no change any advise welcome

Hi all I have posted before and thank you all for your advice. I still have high idle and odd humm when moving I took it back to were I got as still under warranty and they have done the following

New gearbox

Wheel barings all round

Check for warped and sticking breaks

And for the high idle

Cleaned the idle control valve etc

However still no change any advise welcome

try cleaning out the throttle housing body and check the inside of the housing for any scores on the housing where the throttle butterfly valve sits. check the throttle housing body fit to ensure no air being drawn in, also inspect all vacuum pipes for holes or cracks causing air to be drawn in. dont know the price of an idle control valve but if its relatively cheap then i would replace it. also there is an 'o' ring on the valve this will need replacing to ensure a good fit. to be fair the garage seem up for helping you out with the problem, it makes a change to see a helpful one.

Cheers I will try all of that and yeah it nice to see a helpful garage however after 3 weeks of it going back a forth I think they are getting a little !Removed!. any ideas on the humm when the car is moving?

At what speed are you getting the noise? Is it still there when you dip the clutch whilst still in motion?

What year Mondeo is your car?

At all speeds more at 20-50 and yep still there when clutch dipped and it's a 51 plate so late 2001 and just drove down a newly laid road and it was louder than normal.

with regards the 'humm' if the noise is still there when the clutch is dipped then it must relate to something that is still spinning. driveshafts,brake discs, roadwheels and we can reasonably rule out the clutch or release bearing. check for any excessive wear in the driveshafts or joints. drive slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock, if you hear any clicking noises from the front end then it could be a worn cv joint, however these often clunk when worn when releasing the clutch. does the humm increase with road speed and decrease when slowing down as the longer driveshaft generally the drivers side has a support bearing on the shaft and if this is worn or washed out then it will definately 'humm'. as the garage have changed the gearbox, wheel bearings and checked the brakes i think we can rule out these things. going on a smooth road has reduced the amount of normal tyre/road noise so made your humm more apparent. on a more bizzare note check your tyres, as recently ive got a little clio runner and needed some new tyres. prior to getting these i had a humm going on from the back end and thought it was a wheel bearing. anyway when i went to get the tyres replaced the rears were removed and i noticed an odd ridge running across the tread of one of them. now my little runner does about 30 miles a week so dont go for top grade tyres, more your yingtang rubber company budgets, however the tyre removed was a brand name and it had started to deform as it got to its wear limit and it was this that was causing my "wheel bearing" noise. when you ran your hand over it you could feel the ridge so examine you tyres carefully. hope all this gumph help you track it down!

I will try all of those and in answer to the question the humm gets louder when slowing down and lessens when going faster if that make you think of anything else please let me know

And also when you come to a stop with gradual braking it seems like a very gentle kangaroo could that be connected ?

the kangaroo under braking sounds like a warped disc, can you feel the brake pedal pulsate at the same time?

if the garage reckon they have checked for warped and sticking brakes then they should have eliminated this problem from your fault, however if they have been paying lip service then you can check for disc warp using a dti ( dial test indicator) to measure for any runout if you have a haynes manual all is revealed and your runout should be 0.050mm or less. you may be able to hire one from a tool store for a minimal fee.

I'm guessing there giving quite alot of lip service will check for warped discs and give them hell for bullshiting me cheers all please keep ideas flowing as all so far have been a great help however has not solved humm as yet so thanks again