Hi Guys,

I know we have plenty of threads on fixing the boot lid switch (that is the ultimate goal) but this question is of relation to how to actually wire in the other switch.

I have a push button switch as purchased from maplin, it has 4 legs (pins). I am led to believe with my very inexperienced wiring knowledge that two pins on one side would be positive, two pins the other side would be negative? would that be correct?

or do I have a 1 pin ground, 1 pin posi, 1 pin negi and 1 pin permalive?

I am unable to test it at the moment, so when I remove the boot switch, that will be playtime, so I want to make sure I stand a chance of getting it right!

By the looks of the picture I would say it is a DPST switch - Double Pole Single Throw.

i.e. when switch is down it just bridges each pair of legs.

Easiest way to test is with a multimeter set to resistance, that's what I normally do when I'm not sure, lol.

Cheers Alex,

I need an idiots masterclass as I have a multimeter, but haven't a feckin clue how to use it :D

I have a mate though who at lunch will run through it with me, I believe its single pole push to make (http://www.maplin.co.uk/tactile-switches-4196)

certainly my colleague agrees that its probably per pair, but will run the meter over it to show me!

Should be a double pole, unless all four legs are supposed to be connected to each other?

Either way, learn how to use the MM, tis the best way :)

defo! well if there is a tutorial anyone can recommend... :D

Had a quick google and this one doesn't look too bad:

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter

The bit you are trying to do is called "Continuity" in their guide, i.e. trying to establish if a connection is/isn't being made. If your MM doesn't have continuity just put it on the lowest resistance setting.

Cheers Alex, I need to find some time to sit down read / watch and get to grips with it. I will probably have a test later of the button and confirm that its a pair to combine.

Just took the boot lining off, and it looks like a right so and so to get at the bolts that hold the number plate lighting in. I need a ratchet spanner but dont have one, will just have to dig out the old handy 10mm and a bit of elbow grease!

Got my gas soldering iron and must say, it looks good, bought cheap (about £8) and it seems to be brill! I filled up the reservoir, thinking as soon as I turn it on, I will run out of gas, but I left it hissing gas out for about 10 - 15 minutes before giving up lol

Seems I need to do some Continuity Testing to validate the push pins to attach :D (managed to skive off work for a while :))

Not sure if I have been a fist lol but I have just tried a continuity test on the switch and seemingly the circuit seems closed as the meter is beeping so unless I am being special...

Is it a push to break switch then?

I assume that there is no beep if the probes are not touching anything?

No beep otherwise but when touching. And pressing the button doesn't seem to stop the beep so could be user error...

You're not touching anything with your fingers are you?

yeah I was touching the probes to hold it against the legs, which is most likely the reason it occurred :)

Doh!

Have you got it sorted now then?

well, the switch I will just hope works :D otherwise, its been peeing it down today, and a trip to the pub was essential at lunchtime, and tomorrow too, so I will have to try and do it when the weather holds. Hopefully this weekend...

Is your multimeter digital?tis much easier when digital. if yes you need it onto ohms, you might remember this been explained at school as john waynes legs lol, well i am old. (its like the upside down horse shoe with feet). OL is open line (no circuit) if you put the probes together should get 0 or 1 (this is continuity with no resistance or very little). when you test the new switch like you are if its normally open as most are it should be OL when press button it should be between say 0 and 2, this is because there will be some resistance in the switch, if you test your old switch you might still get continuity but the multimeter might show a very high reading as the resistance is very high, this is fubar. (broken) or if totally fubar OL. If you are still getting nowhere with it post a link of the make and model of the said multimeter and I will explain more if i can.

what is it your trying to do is the electric boot catch gone one the boot lid

Thanks guys, and yeah I tried the ohms, I got the continuity fine, I think my body must have been carrying the resistance. I might try later a bit of speaker wire tied to both pins and then connect to the wire instead on a bench test (should save the agro of my fingers closing the circuit). Just to confirm, I am using a digital multimeter, with a specific continuity test function)

John, yes I need to replace the boot catch switch, but I am tinkering at the moment to ensure that I dont install a faulty switch that just keeps popping the boot lol

Thanks guys, and yeah I tried the ohms, I got the continuity fine, I think my body must have been carrying the resistance. I might try later a bit of speaker wire tied to both pins and then connect to the wire instead on a bench test (should save the agro of my fingers closing the circuit). Just to confirm, I am using a digital multimeter, with a specific continuity test function)

John, yes I need to replace the boot catch switch, but I am tinkering at the moment to ensure that I dont install a faulty switch that just keeps popping the boot lol

ive done a few m8 it should have a single wire to the boot lid push button on the tailgate just cut the wire and join some speaker wire to both the pieces of cut wire get a push button 2 wire switch not 4 wire and simply connect the speaker wires to your 2 wire push button and hey presto simples as the meerkat says

Well if only it was. Continuity test on my new switch at the connector end is zero ohms so it's not a switch issue... The boot pops with the remote but otherwise its not having it, even shorting the two switch wires didn't pop the boot catch so need a new plan...thinking now as the male adapter under the windscreen wiper motor, however if I short this out even it doesn't pop the catch... Any thoughts? Sounds like wiring between there and the motor?

After a stream of misfortunes, I finally got there,

1. Duff first replacement switch to replace the original.

2. Old switch welded to the handle,

3. Severely out of practice at soldering,

4. Wiring the switch to the wrong legs and finally

5. Duff wiring in the boot (boot switch wire actually going into the white connector at the boot switch mechanism seems to have worked loose. Having dribbled a bit of solder into it, all now works perfectly.

Total cost 9.95 for soldering iron, 4.50 for gas 1.25 for solder and 5.99 for two switches (including delivery) so for just over 20 quid its fixed, and after about 5 hours of on and off fault finding, repairing, soldering practice I now have beaten the dealer.its been a day of education !

Glad its sorted :)

got mine to do now.

The switch replacement isn't too bad. If you Have recently practised soldering you should be fine and if you Get the switch /es that I bought it seems to be solder the legs as pairs side by side rather than opposites :-)