Hi

I think my stater motor is starting to give up. This afternoon when I started my car it didnt start properly and died so I instantly turned the key again and had the ignition noise but it lasted for about 3 seconds before the engine started. Also on some morning when I go to start the car the ignition noise can go for about 5 seconds before the engine starts.

Usually I dont let off and the engine eventually starts.

Has anyone else had this problem? Should I start preparing for a new starter motor? Are they expensive and complicated to replace?

Cheers

It would most likely be a battery rather than starter, in the winter my mine isn't such an instant start but nothing like 5 seconds, look into new spark plugs and air filter they would help with starting, but get the battery tested first.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

Had the same problem myself twice before, hasn't happened since. I do try parking at places where I will be able to roll forward slightly enough to perform a bump start should I need to, but that's just paranoid me haha! :D

either buy a batt tester ie 1 that you plug in ur cigarette lighter or take ur battery off, put it in the kitchen and charge it over night, (if it has caps ontop of the cells then remove these, check cells if low on distilled water and top up as needed) most batteries are sealed units tho and it wont have these.

Re-apply battery in morning and try again..

REMEMBER...... once batt has been taken off then things need be re-programmed, ie stereo coding, automatic windows etc... then this rules out the ticking noise from a dud battery, then you can diagnose ur starter better.....

Just experienced yesterday the horribly ignition click and a non start situation .

eventually found one of the battery leads fixing post had broken inside its plastic housing after the first fuse(450amp).

This part is not availible from Fords separately fron the engine loom.

Had to drill out post and fit a new made-up relacement.

All back to normal up and running. :)

I have enclosed some images of the battery connections.

One thing concerns me if for some reason one of these high amperage fuses was to blow how do you replace them???.

Experienced the starting problem today, kept the key held down and the car started in about 3 seconds will check the car out tomorrow.

Edit: thanks bubbleman for the tip will check that tomorrow :)

Liam.

I didn't think the mk6 posts went through any plastic, im sure they are just wrapped in plastic covering below a certain point if im thinking of the same thing as you are.

Has anyone found a solution to the problem?

It got a little bit worse for me the other day, I was driving in CBD traffic and accidently stalled as i wasnt concentrating properly. I turned the key straight away and the engine didnt turn over, after about 3 seconds i got a faint turnover and the car just just started. Not what you want.

Its booked in for a service on Monday so might ask the guys what they think it might be

If its getting worse like this I think something needs to be replaced

You want to check your battery.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Ford OC mobile app

Just experienced yesterday the horribly ignition click and a non start situation .

eventually found one of the battery leads fixing post had broken inside its plastic housing after the first fuse(450amp).

This part is not availible from Fords separately fron the engine loom.

Had to drill out post and fit a new made-up relacement.

All back to normal up and running. :)

I have enclosed some images of the battery connections.

One thing concerns me if for some reason one of these high amperage fuses was to blow how do you replace them???.

im fairly sure you carnt replace just one its a swop old for new complete fuse unit, they aint expensive so dont worry, but if one of these is to blow you wont have any fuses in the car left lol, so you would have to change every fuse in the car, as a major fault has happened as the smaller fuses are used to protect the wiring and the circuits but if for somehow the fault current hasnt blown a fuse but melted it together under the current then one of these fuses would blow, probs to protect your car setting on fire, but the likely hood of that happening is miniscusle so dw

im fairly sure you carnt replace just one its a swop old for new complete fuse unit, they aint expensive so dont worry, but if one of these is to blow you wont have any fuses in the car left lol, so you would have to change every fuse in the car, as a major fault has happened as the smaller fuses are used to protect the wiring and the circuits but if for somehow the fault current hasnt blown a fuse but melted it together under the current then one of these fuses would blow, probs to protect your car setting on fire, but the likely hood of that happening is miniscusle so dw

Daniel thanks for the info but i was told by the local Ford dealer that the fuse block assembly was not availible to buy without spending lots of money on a complete engine loom.Do you know if this is true??.I would love to know if i am being told porkys by the dealer

im fairly confident that the fuse block doesnt need to come with the wiring loom, its just a simple unplug and plug in job from what i know, and i had my replaced when i bought the car as it was cracked, when the dealer tried to put a new battery in the wrong way he broke it haha, but he told me it was just a straight swop old for new plug it and they werent worried about paying for the new bit so i imagine it was cheap as chips, but if thats what a main dealer has said try a local garage they will set you straight or email ford parts online they are an independant company to ford but have a contract with them for cheaper parts no vat ect ect but they will tell you if it needs the wiring loom or not pal

Just experienced yesterday the horribly ignition click and a non start situation .

eventually found one of the battery leads fixing post had broken inside its plastic housing after the first fuse(450amp).

This part is not availible from Fords separately fron the engine loom.

Had to drill out post and fit a new made-up relacement.

All back to normal up and running. :)

I have enclosed some images of the battery connections.

One thing concerns me if for some reason one of these high amperage fuses was to blow how do you replace them???.

im fairly confident that the fuse block doesnt need to come with the wiring loom, its just a simple unplug and plug in job from what i know, and i had my replaced when i bought the car as it was cracked, when the dealer tried to put a new battery in the wrong way he broke it haha, but he told me it was just a straight swop old for new plug it and they werent worried about paying for the new bit so i imagine it was cheap as chips, but if thats what a main dealer has said try a local garage they will set you straight or email ford parts online they are an independant company to ford but have a contract with them for cheaper parts no vat ect ect but they will tell you if it needs the wiring loom or not pal

Thanks again for the info you are right.

just checked on the website you suggested and they have it listed for £40.

Will be having .serious words with the dealer .

great news.

Thats alright here to help, i would to!! They always want that little more from people