Hi Guys

I am new to the forum and im looking for some help/advice

i picked up a fiesta van late last night when it was dark! lesson to be learned don't buy in the dark

Spec: Fiesta MK6.5 1.6 TDCI Sport van 2007 , 92k Miles on the clock

Engine managment light is on :

Codes are : P0069 & P0488

there is i EGR blanking plate fitted that the owner mentioned fitted atm.. which i think are one of the codes

also the passenger ball joint is knocking and i was going to replace it today but soon discovered that the previous owner

has claimed the locking wheel nut was in the tyre well ( but its not )

what is the easiest way to remove the locking wheel nuts without damaging alloys ( they have just been refurbished )

& is there a common fault with the gear stick sticking ones the engine heats up ?

any advice or help would be great , thanks for reading :)

​I have attached a picture of the van so that you can get an idea

here :-

the P0069 code is triggered when the barometric pressure inside the
air intake is not on par with the manifold absolute pressure being
measured. This code usually indicates an airflow problem, but could also
indicate an unusually high temperature difference inside the air
intake.

To find the right fix, begin your diagnosis at the air intake. Open
the air box and look for blockages. A dirty air filter can trigger this
code, but so could a blockage further into the intake (so be sure to
trace airflow from the airbox all the way to the intake manifold). Many
times, simply replacing the filter and clearing the code will resolve a
P0069 in your Ford.

However, if no problems are found and a new air filter does not do
the job, then the problem is very likely in the IAT (intake air
temperature) sensor.

The IAT sensor is located on the intake, and it records the

temperature of the air coming into the intake manifold. If this sensor
becomes faulty, it can trigger a MAP BPC and a P0069 trouble code.
Replacing the IAT sensor is a relatively simple and straight-forward
job, and fortunately the parts are not expensive.

or:-

P0069 and other codes can also be triggered when an after-market chipset
has been installed.This can cause a short or default in the system, setting off codes like P0069. If your Derv
has after-market chips installed, and if your air filter seems clean,
you might try diagnosing this code by first uninstalling the non-OEM
chips and resetting the system.

P0488 EGR position control performance/range fault, but sometimes can be connected to a faulty dpf....

You know your stuff , Spot on bud!

i will replace the air filter , or even yet there might not be one in the haha, i dont think there's an after market chip fitted but i will have a look and see, if there is and anyone wants i can post it to you , i will let you know if there is tho

is it recommended to take the EGR blanking plate off ? give the EGR good clean and stick it back on without the plate ?

as for the locking nut i am no further forward .. The previous owner is looking for it apparently although there was 4x new toyo proxes fitted 1500 miles ago so it cant be far away

thanks for the quick reply

the egr plate whats fitted may have a hole in it, or has blown thro if it not stainless..... try a new 1 :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-BLANKING-PLATE-PEUGEOT-HDi-FORD-TDCi-VOLVO-CITROEN-SUZUKI-MAZDA-/141105639467?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20da8d302b

once the egr valve has been blocked off then its useless doesnt work what so ever, so taking it apart and spraying it wont make any difference.... the plate was fitted for a reason....

remember to keep upto date on oil changes as the 1.6 tdci are prone for turbo failure as the oil feed pipe to the turbo clogs up....

is the dpf the cat ? i am quite novice to most of this stuff , i have been given a spare egr blanking plate with the car it looks like it stainless or possible aluminium , so even removing the place and cleaning the egr and re assembling it back to the van without the plate it will still not work ?

dose the turbo run of the engine oil ? and what is best recommended for my van

previous owner has text to say he cant find the locking nut , what is the best way of removal ?

thanks

dpf and cat are all in 1......alu is a no go, as this will blow thro, needs be s/s... you could try cleaning it out and fitting it bk with no plate if you wish as its your van, we're here just for guidance. the majority of derv owners say blank it off, as its not needed, only causes problems.....

the turbo has its own feed and yes it does run off engine oil, needs this for lubrication.... if it round town driving you do, i suggest oil/filter every 5k, and give it a good thrash once a week or so down a dual carridgeway/junction of motorway to clean the crap out....

i mainly use castrol magnatec 5w/30 with a ford oil filter/bosch, but this is me, and everybody else is different and has own opinions....

removal, unsure off... i had to do this once to my escort tddi, but i used a hammer and chisel as the nut stuck out from the wheel.... maybe there is a tool on fleabay... :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scarfell-7-Piece-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Bolt-Removal-Remover-Tool-Socket-Set-New-/350567968126?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item519f7aad7e

i will try and have a better look tomorrow bud , i will look for the aftermarket chip and see if there is one in there somewhere , i will give check the egr at the weekend as i will have more time and get a new air filter put in , and give the air sensor a clean see if it changed anything , as for the dpf i am unsure of , would these codes bother you in anyways ? im more considered about the ball joint if im being honest! fed up hearing the clunk and its only day 2!

thanks for the help!

you could either take your bottom arms off, drill out the old ball joints and replace the joint for around 20 per corner. or you can replace the full arms for at a guess 80-90 for both.

either way replace both in pairs, not just one, as the other will soon follow.....

i have seen the arms at the auto shop near my house , the sell the arm singles for £87 ,or you can buy the ball joint alone for £15 with the holes for mounting , i think you can unattach the ball joint by 3 bolts and re bolt the new one back

would you say the van is still safe to drive around with the fault codes shown (until the weekend) ? could it damage anything?

thanks

The Ball joint on the arm can be taken off , grind down the rivets and drill them out then punch them out and put on the ball joints , a little more work but worth saving of £144 for :P