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Stuttering On A Morning - 1.6Tdci


InKontrol
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Evening all,

Has anyone else's 1.6tdci suffered from stuttering on a morning? It only happens for the first couple hundred yards after start up, but it feels like an injector or two is hesitating which causes the car to kangaroo slightly (only slightly) accompanied by fluctuating revs. The engine is sweet as a nut when idling, and it's OK after setting off from work. It only happens on a morning after the car has been sat overnight.

The fuel filter was replaced about a month and half ago due to putting it in to limp mode, but even before that it still suffered from the stuttering.

EDIT: It was frosty one morning so I had to use the windscreen defroster, which put some additional load on the engine for about 2 to 3 minutes, but the symptoms were not apparent after this procedure. Weird.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Alright I have an update on this. The car was serviced by Arnold Clark who also looked at the fault as described, however they said they couldn't find a fault (even after being really specific about when it happens). The fault still occurs so my neighbour (Arnold Clark warranty admin) has asked that I take it in tomorrow on Saturday to book it in again for the fault. The idea is to leave it overnight next Friday, return on the Saturday and demonstrate the fault to the technician via test drive, so that way they are able to experience it for themselves.

I've been told it could be a sensor, however what do you guys think? :)

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Had something similar,although it didn't kangaroo.after sitting overnight it would hesitate to start for a few seconds and hen when it did it would kind of cough for a about 5-10 seconds but then it would be fine.it did this for a while until the engine system fault light came on.turned out to be glow plugs.apparently they bring the engine fault light on and limit your revs and power,bit stupid really.

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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The car starts fine and idles fine when cold. It's only when you go from 0-25 - 30mph after it has started in 1st/2nd gear, it stutter's like literally for 600-700 yards and then it's fine after that. Weird problem but there's that many !Removed! sensors and electronics on it, that it'll be a pain in the !Removed! for the poor bugger who gets the job to diagnose it. Neighbour recommended getting it looked at ASAP while it's under warranty, than to leave it and potentially bite me in the !Removed! after the warranty has ran out.

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The car starts fine and idles fine when cold. It's only when you go from 0-25 - 30mph after it has started in 1st/2nd gear, it stutter's like literally for 600-700 yards and then it's fine after that. Weird problem but there's that many !Removed! sensors and electronics on it, that it'll be a pain in the !Removed! for the poor bugger who gets the job to diagnose it. Neighbour recommended getting it looked at ASAP while it's under warranty, than to leave it and potentially bite me in the !Removed! after the warranty has ran out.

Throttle sensor, I'd bet.

When I was learning to drive, my instructor had a Yaris, and it did this every time in 1st gear - bouncing along. Of course, being a learner car, everyone probably just tutted and said "!Removed! learners", but I had no control over it. One week, it just stopped. Turned out to be the throttle sensor. A new throttle assembly sorted the problem.

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Another small update on this, if you set off in 1st and let the revs get as low as 900, then accelerate again the car stutters 3 or 4 times when trying to spin the engine up.

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Me again! I've been thinking again about this problem before I finally get to drop it off at Ford tomorrow. If the stuttering condition is not present when the car is stationary, when revving the engine to the point where it stutters when it is in gear and moving, then what would that indicate?

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Me again! I've been thinking again about this problem before I finally get to drop it off at Ford tomorrow. If the stuttering condition is not present when the car is stationary, when revving the engine to the point where it stutters when it is in gear and moving, then what would that indicate?

It could be the symptom of a lot of things. Maybe you just bought some bad fuel? But my money is still on the throttle sensor.

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Tell a lie about the idling issue, I found this morning that it also does it when you're standing still. I.e. get in the car, start it up and then rev it to about 1200-1300rpm and you can hear the engine rev up and down as it appears to misfire. The rev counter needle also bounces up and down + 200 and - 200 RPM.

The injectors feel like they're being deliberately retarded for some reason.

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UPDATE:

Went out with the Ford tech this morning who sat in the car with me as I drove it around the compound. They have taught the EGR valve and asked me to try it out, failing that they'll need to have it in for a few days and test using live diagnostic data. I have noticed that the car does feel more responsive and picks up better now the EGR was taught again, but the ultimate test will be tomorrow morning.

I'll keep everyone up to date on this. :)

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Another update:

The problem appears to still exist, however I have spotted two faults which MAY be contributing to this... Bolted to the side of the battery housing is what looks like a sensor, which has two pipes coming off it that wind their way up at the catalytic converter. One of these pipe's appears to be chafing badly against the very bracket that holds them in place, which has resulted in the protective sheath being damaged (and possibly punctured a hole in this hose).

The other fault is one of the wires going to the sensor that's attached to the battery housing looks damaged (see picture).

post-46377-0-08232300-1396722605_thumb.j

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Alright another update on this at the moment:

I received an ODB2 interface in the post today and have been trying it out. The software I used was a bit cheap chinese knock off, however the absolute throttle position and relative throttle position values did not change from 14.5%. I don't know whether this is due to crappy software or not but I revved the engine and the value didn't change.

The OBD2 interface appears to dislike the OBD Auto Doctor software because it kept crashing when trying to read values.

Shouldn't the throttle position value be changing??

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Alright another update on this at the moment:

I received an ODB2 interface in the post today and have been trying it out. The software I used was a bit cheap chinese knock off, however the absolute throttle position and relative throttle position values did not change from 14.5%. I don't know whether this is due to crappy software or not but I revved the engine and the value didn't change.

The OBD2 interface appears to dislike the OBD Auto Doctor software because it kept crashing when trying to read values.

Shouldn't the throttle position value be changing??

Yes - the values should change. It also sounds like bad software. I don't know much about it, but anything that crashes so easily isn't likely to be well engineered.

Is it as I suspected at the start? Malfunctioning throttle sensor?

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Car has been in the Ford garage for a few days but they and I are no further forward at the moment...

Went in today to throw in a few specifics as to how it should be tested for the fault.

I don't like telling people how to diagnose stuff but it's clearly happening and needs to happen when the IDS is connected...

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

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They've had Master Tech diagnosing the car and the conclusion is they want to try a brand new injector from Ford (i.e. submit a case to Ford asking for a loan injector to try). They don't know which cylinder might be affected, and so will need the car for a few days while they swap each injector out in turn with the new one and check it the next morning.

Next update to come in a week or two.

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  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE: Car has been in Ford for a week and so far they've tried the new injector in two cylinders. I was told on Thursday that they had tested the car after the second cylinder had the new injector put in, and it was found that the problem had been fixed due to said injector, however they've now advised me that the fault has returned after being tested again and they will proceed to cylinder number 3. Failing that they'll move on to cylinder number 4 and if that doesn't fix it then I have no idea what it could be.

When I did warranties at a Mercedes dealership we had one extreme circumstance where an engineer from Germany was flown over to diagnose a problem on a customer's car. I'm hoping the problem is with either cylinder number 3 or 4, and that Ford won't have to send an engineer out. It's not a pleasant experience having to drive a Fiesta...

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FURTHER UPDATE: Ford have tried the loan injector in cylinder number 3 and all is well, but they're going to leave it overnight again and check it in the morning to make sure it is the number 3 cylinder.

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UPDATE:

I have initiated a complaint to the selling dealer to request a car buy back. This is the third week now that Arnold Clark have the car and they're nowhere near fixing it, and due to the problems I've already had with this one I'm going to give it back.

Now the question is, I really like the look and practicality of the current Focus I have (Focus 2008), so is it worth sticking to getting another Focus 2008? I've heard the boot space in the Focus 2011.25 is terrible and I'm not keen on it's overly European looks.

I'd be looking at trying to get a range topper Focus 2008 (like Titanium with Satnav...)

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