Guys,

I have been contemplating lowering the ST. I'd like subtle drop circa 30mm just so that the car 'sit's right', no more than circa £150.

My questions to all that have lowered theirs already are;

- What brand of springs are recommended?

- Do the handling characteristics remain similar (I can't see springs making an imporvement but I don't want to ruin the already brilliant set up)?

-Will the camber/geometry need adjusted after lowering springs are fitted to accomodate the changes?

- Doe's the right become and harsher?

Ant feedback appreciated.

Cheers

Camber will be affected. Try some cooksport springs more expensive than eibachs but much better and of course ride comfort will be stiffer with all lowering springs.

Guys,

I have been contemplating lowering the ST. I'd like subtle drop circa 30mm just so that the car 'sit's right', no more than circa £150.

Here's a set from a reliable supplier in Germany dedicated to providing performance parts for all fords:

http://www.european-parts.net/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1570/osCsid/ounpr5pp2battjkc10dkq4hb87

Within the budget aswell,

What brand of springs are recommended?

Eibach are pretty good, ford use these as standard and supply them as optional upgrade,

The ones I've linked there are TüV approved aswell so must comply with checks, standards not cheaply manufactured China stuff,

Do the handling characteristics remain similar (I can't see springs making an improvement but I don't want to ruin the already brilliant set up)?

Harder springs reduce body lean or cornering aswell as squat under heavy acceleration, the handling will be less squishy at high speed, the whole car becomes more solid feels like its on rails,

Doe's the right become and harsher?

A little bit harder ride but lowering the profile of tyres is worse, overall its well worth it because you will be able to throw the car in to bends without body roll, driving becomes more fun and the car more predictable.

Will the camber/geometry need adjusted after lowering springs are fitted to accommodate the changes?

yes if lowering up to 40mm regardless of wheel size you will require eibach adjustable rear camber bolts to correct the camber

cost between 20-30 pounds and prevent any negative camber,

Negative camber is when the face of the wheel begins to face towards the sky causing excessive wear on the inside of the tyre.

If fitting coilovers:

You will require rear adjustable camber bolts and front tower strut csster kit to fully align the wheels.

The front has enough tolerance as standard for dropping up to 40mm anything lower needs to angle the struts hence the caster kit.

Negative camber is when the top of the wheel begins to face inwards,

Quite popular with the VAG scene and improves lateral grip on heavy cornering but it causes excessive wear on the inside of the rear tyres costing you more on tyres as saw in image below:

You will get lowering springs for around 150 pounds, however you will also require adjustable rear camber bolts and laser tracking alignment to correct camber and optimise handling overall your looking around 240 maximum spend all fitted and aligned.

You could make something back on the existing ST springs on ebay which would help things aswell.

After lowering another good upgrade is a bigger diameter rear sway bar,

Upgrading the rear bar helps preventing rear wheel lift further improving cornering,

However upgrading the frint sway bar aswell as rear doesn't give as much effect, keep front stock and upgrade rear to bigger diameter which all aftermarket bars will be anyways,

Whiteline are a good supplier of quality upgrade sway bars.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/vehicle_swaybars.php

Hope this info helps yourself and future readers via Google.

Thanks Matt for your input, I'll check them out.

Thanks Lenny for all the info, The ones in the link look good, 20mm drop would be fine, I don't want it 'slammed'.

The info on the camber and needing laser alingment is helpful. The last thing I want is to do is make the handling worse.

Negative Camber = Better Cornering.

Negative Camber = Better Cornering.

Maybe so but it should be minimal with just changing the spring 20-40mm shorter.

Looks wise I can't stand negative camber unless it is on a serious time attack car or racing car.