Hi all

Having just got over sorting out my EGR valve and DPF it seems the electrical gremlins have struck.

I first noticed something was up when the dash lit up like this whilst driving, note there's no temp reading, a red exclamation in the circle is lit up and I've got a red snow flake?

As I go to indicate there's no flashing arrow on the dash and no relay click but the actual indicator does still flash, like wise with the hazards

When I got to work I switched the ignition off as normal but as soon as I walked away I couldn't lock the door with the key, I tried the wife's key fob as well and that wouldn't work either. I Tried to lock the door manually with the key which worked for the drivers door but it didn't lock any other door, I also tried to lock the door from the inside but again the same result.

After a day of fiddling I'm no better off.

I got myself an elm scanner and here's the DTC's its throwing up

Does that make any sense to anyone on here?

I'm a bit confused and even more skint so does anyone have any suggestions on what to try so I can work out what I can do to get this fixed.

If you need more info let me know

Trac

Most likely to be a cluster fault, these cars are known for cluster problems, because the cluster is iffy then the ECU's are not talking properly to each other and giving you all those error codes, U codes are can communication issues, because the HEC reads the key info then that will be why the car won't lock.

The HEC will need either fixing or replacing imo.

Sorry HEC? What does that stand for?

I think there's a test in for scan for the HEC I'll run a test

Trac

I think it stands for Hybrid Electrical Cluster aka the instrument pack. The test will allow to test various parts of the cluster functions but wont be able to confirm the fault.. But it is quite a common failure point, your issues suggest to me that is the fault.

Its probably worth pulling it out and checking connections on GEM and HEC before looking at paying out, unseated connectors or contamination on the pins could be enough to give the system grief. disconnect battery, pull out the HEC, unplug and re plug cables, go down to the GEM, (fuses in footwell) an do the same for all the connection blocks there, re connect battery and see what happens

brilliant thanks guys..!!

so there's hope yet as the plot thickens............

I got in it this morning and everything was fine the instruments were reading as they should, the temperature reading was back and the warning lights had gone away.

I drove to the nursery and dropped my little one off and the car even locked using the key fob great I thought but when I came back to the car it unlocked but when I got in everything was back to how it was yesterday...!!!

so this does correlate with what your saying above, it could just be a loose connection or connection breaking down.

the gem module should be easy to check but do you guys have any suggestions on how I pull the HEC/instrument cluster out to check it?

cheers guys and gals

trac

on top of the steering wheel is a small panel that just lifts off in front of the display, its got the bit of leather attached, pop that off and you will see two bolts, i believe that is all, should just pull out then.

GEM is fine, there are some big plugs on it, most of the connectors have a small leaver attached, normally you push the connector in, then pull the leaver over to secure it, removing them is the reverse, pull the leaver over the plug, that will partly remove the plug, then pull it out, just make sure you disconnect the battery before yanking out plugs and when reinserting them check for bent pins and that the socket is going in straight!

perfect thanks for that Darren its much appreciated,

I'll take a look and see what happens - fingers crossed

trac

First thing i would do is clear the codes, and also disconnect the battery for at least 10-15 mins, this solved the key issue for my car.

Also if you could, get the battery and alternator load tested. This is the first thing you should do for any electrical issues

Then check for codes and you should only now have the codes that are consistent

hey nexus

sorry I didn't say earlier, I have wiped the codes a few times before I took the picture of the results but I haven't tried disconnecting the battery though, i'll do that first before I pull the HEC out ect

thanks for your help

trac

Little update

I came out of work today and opened the drivers door, only to set the alarm off, and of course because the key fob doesn't work I couldn't stop it,

I dunno if any of you have tried but it turns out even if you disconnect the battery the alarm still sounds, sorta good to know but it was a right pain in the !Removed! at that particular moment in time.

It did eventually stop on its own. Probably not a good idea to discuss on a public forum how to disable an alarm but if anyone's got any suggestions I'd appreciate a pm

So after messing around tonight I only managed to get round to disconnecting the battery for a full hour and reconnecting it, unfortunately the hasn't changed anything,

Trac

I would still put money on it needing a replacement cluster in that case, when I swapped a donor cluster to my car I managed to get hold off it caused quite a number of U codes similar to yours, admittedly it was a petrol cluster rather than diesel but it was just a test item to play around with.

If after you have checked out the GEM then you could look at the HEC, they are fairly easy to take apart if you are gentle, I guess it might just be some dry joints on the HEC causing the issues, if your handy with a soldering iron that might be a potential fix.

All modern car alarms still go off with the battery disconnected, found this out through breaking cars for parts lol... Only way to stop it is to disconnect the sounder, I don't know where it is on the Focus but it won't be easily accessible for obvious reasons.

just a thought?

I know where the sounder is but if I cut the wire will that kill the ignition system?

trac

I wouldn't cut anything, the immobiliser maybe linked to it, I honestly don't know on these. If you unplug it, can always plug it back in at least, or is it hardwired in?