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halpw

Focus Spewing Black Smoke...

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Another day another focus engine problem...

I've had a problem with my focus, 2006 1.6 tdci, on and off for the last couple of months.

Every time i accelerated and the turbo kicked in, i kept hearing a whooshing noise and after the injectors went i had the mechanic have a look who said that all the pipes are to the turbo are fine.

So for the past week, while driving i've had black smoke escaping from the back and now have a strange judder as i'm accelerating.

So i had a look under the hood as you do and lo and behold...

http://1drv.ms/1MY1Mfh

From the video, zoomed in what an idiot i am, you can see black smoke escaping from a point in the turbo.

Can anyone help, what do i do to fix this?

Cheaply if possible <_<

Thank you

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any messages on the dash saying anti pollution fault or similar, as I have a feeling that you may have a blocked dpf

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any messages on the dash saying anti pollution fault or similar, as I have a feeling that you may have a blocked dpf

No messages on dash but i remembered to plug in my bluetooth monitor and checked for faults as it was running.

2 errors came up:

- p1402

- p0299

Oh and regarding dpf, assume there is none ;)

Definitely pertinent information!

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egr blanked?

Nope, but it is something i need to do

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P0299 is turbocharger underboost and is why your car is smoking, check your intercooler hoses very thoroughly for splits, especially the one to the right hand side as you look at the engine bay.

You are losing boost pressure somewhere.

Best arm chair mechanics I can suggest from that video.

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P1402 is EGR blocked which certainly won't help. Although if it is that badly blocked it will likely be had it.

Clean the EGR valve and figure out why you are losing boost and you will find your problem should be sorted.

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Can you take a picture of your turbo? A clear picture as it looks like the turbine housing has a hole in it in that video unless my eyes are deceiving me?

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It is a shame you are so far away, I have 2 spare new EGR valves sat here and turbo parts.

If it is the turbine housing that is damaged, you could remove the turbo and remove the turbine housing and replace it with another one with clean VNT vanes too.

They are both quite fiddly jobs to a point if you don't really know what you are doing.

Otherwise I would suspect you will struggle to get just a turbine housing as a separate item, but I could be wrong.

This would depend on any damage to the centre rotating housing assembly and that sealing properly again, but a clearer picture may really help to see if it is damaged at all.

4 hours or so to remove turbo strip rebuild and refit at a guesstimate.

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Is it a 110bhp or 90bhp as if the 90bhp then it won't have a DPF. I think the turbo is different between the 110bhp and 90bhp as well, think it's a wastegate on the 90bhp and VNT vanes on the 110bhp but again I could be wrong.

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Cheapest price for a complete Turbo is £259.99 from ebay which is what is on mine now plus fitting for a 110bhp if it comes to that.

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P0299 is turbocharger underboost and is why your car is smoking, check your intercooler hoses very thoroughly for splits, especially the one to the right hand side as you look at the engine bay.

You are losing boost pressure somewhere.

Best arm chair mechanics I can suggest from that video.

When someone accelerates, the hoses are very, very hard to depress, which means they aren't split. I think this is right??

P1402 is EGR blocked which certainly won't help. Although if it is that badly blocked it will likely be had it.

Clean the EGR valve and figure out why you are losing boost and you will find your problem should be sorted.

I'll blank the egr over the next week, hopefully that won't continue to be a problem.

Can you take a picture of your turbo? A clear picture as it looks like the turbine housing has a hole in it in that video unless my eyes are deceiving me?

your eyes do not deceive you, there is a hole. I had the camera zoomed in. I'll take a clearer picture in the morning

It is a shame you are so far away, I have 2 spare new EGR valves sat here and turbo parts.

If it is the turbine housing that is damaged, you could remove the turbo and remove the turbine housing and replace it with another one with clean VNT vanes too.

They are both quite fiddly jobs to a point if you don't really know what you are doing.

Otherwise I would suspect you will struggle to get just a turbine housing as a separate item, but I could be wrong.

This would depend on any damage to the centre rotating housing assembly and that sealing properly again, but a clearer picture may really help to see if it is damaged at all.

4 hours or so to remove turbo strip rebuild and refit at a guesstimate.

I'm in northern manchester, just outside Failsworth.

Erm you lost me at VNT vanes... therefore i do not know what i am doing.

Is it a 110bhp or 90bhp as if the 90bhp then it won't have a DPF. I think the turbo is different between the 110bhp and 90bhp as well, think it's a wastegate on the 90bhp and VNT vanes on the 110bhp but again I could be wrong.

110bhp and assume no dpf.

Cheapest price for a complete Turbo is £259.99 from ebay which is what is on mine now plus fitting for a 110bhp if it comes to that.

As if the injectors didn't set me back....

P.s thanks for the help, i have some reading to do...

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Definately looks like turbo failure, unfortunately the turbo disintigrating is usually a symptom of the oil supply failing on these cars.

All turbo suppliers have strict conditions about other neccessary work being done otherwise your warranty on a replacement turbo is void.

Basically the turbo fails because the oil supply pipe clogs up and resists the flow. The oil pump strainer in the sump can clog, and it has been known for the filters to fall apart too.

The restricted oil flow wears out the seals and oil leaks into the turbine housing where it mixes with the exhaust gases and clogs the EGR valve, then it blows out the back as black smoke.

The damage on the turbine housing could be caused by the cartridge moving around in worn seals and bearings.

I wouldn't try using the car now as if the turbine housing seals have failed then you risk having the compressor seals failling too which can cause the engine to "run on" and can cause major damage to the engine.

There are several good threads on here about it worth having a look at.

good luck and let us know how you get on.

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As said by Colin turbo failure does happen, although it doesn't appear to making any horrible noises other than blowing and sounding a bit rough.

I would be checking the oil flow rate to the banjo bolt and the condition of the turbo shaft first to try and determine if either of them are an issue.

If the shaft has no play and the oil feed is fine and there is no damage to the centre rotating housing assembly and it is just a hole in the turbine housing then I would risk having the housing replaced as you don't have much to lose and would be the cheapest option.

If you have the turbo changed then without having a new oil feed pipe and the sump cleaned out etc then warranty on the turbo is going no existent, garages will want to replace the complete turbo along with all the other work required, by the time you are done you would be looking at a bill for best part of £1000.

If you can find a garage that will replace just the housing if that is the only damage then I have a spare housing that might help keep costs down.

How many miles has the car done?

Being a 110bhp it will have a DPF.

You can blank the EGR valve but it will still throw up the same error code, the only way to stop it is to have it mapped out.

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Definately looks like turbo failure, unfortunately the turbo disintigrating is usually a symptom of the oil supply failing on these cars.

All turbo suppliers have strict conditions about other neccessary work being done otherwise your warranty on a replacement turbo is void.

Basically the turbo fails because the oil supply pipe clogs up and resists the flow. The oil pump strainer in the sump can clog, and it has been known for the filters to fall apart too.

The restricted oil flow wears out the seals and oil leaks into the turbine housing where it mixes with the exhaust gases and clogs the EGR valve, then it blows out the back as black smoke.

The damage on the turbine housing could be caused by the cartridge moving around in worn seals and bearings.

I wouldn't try using the car now as if the turbine housing seals have failed then you risk having the compressor seals failling too which can cause the engine to "run on" and can cause major damage to the engine.

There are several good threads on here about it worth having a look at.

good luck and let us know how you get on.

Oh man, i did not want to know that i am going get reamed :(

As said by Colin turbo failure does happen, although it doesn't appear to making any horrible noises other than blowing and sounding a bit rough.

I would be checking the oil flow rate to the banjo bolt and the condition of the turbo shaft first to try and determine if either of them are an issue.

If the shaft has no play and the oil feed is fine and there is no damage to the centre rotating housing assembly and it is just a hole in the turbine housing then I would risk having the housing replaced as you don't have much to lose and would be the cheapest option.

If you have the turbo changed then without having a new oil feed pipe and the sump cleaned out etc then warranty on the turbo is going no existent, garages will want to replace the complete turbo along with all the other work required, by the time you are done you would be looking at a bill for best part of £1000.

If you can find a garage that will replace just the housing if that is the only damage then I have a spare housing that might help keep costs down.

How many miles has the car done?

Being a 110bhp it will have a DPF.

You can blank the EGR valve but it will still throw up the same error code, the only way to stop it is to have it mapped out.

Currently it has done 120k

DPF has been removed, and ecu mapped. DPF failed and no amount of regenerating helped. Turbo began it's whooshing during this time.

You wanted pictures: http://1drv.ms/1NEimkr

What do you think?

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Hmm it looked like a hole in the video but no hole on those pictures. You really need to remove the heatshields and have a look as that seems to be where the smoke is coming from so I suspect the exhaust where the turbo clamps onto it.

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Hmm it looked like a hole in the video but no hole on those pictures. You really need to remove the heatshields and have a look as that seems to be where the smoke is coming from so I suspect the exhaust where the turbo clamps onto it.

I'll take it to my local garage and ask him to remove the covers..

I don't think i'll be driving it much now

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I reckon the DPF welds have split after gutting... V band clamps don't tend to loosen by themselves.

Get that EGR blanked as well!

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Things have developed since the last post...

Have ordered an erg blanking plate, which will be fitted as soon as it arrives.

Now on to the turbo malarkey, a friend will let me have a turbo that is just sitting there for £100. But i need to make sure that it matches the car

http://1drv.ms/1LTEGn3

The first image should be the part number of the new turbo and the second is the one on my car. As you can see i am having trouble verifying if the turbo matches.

However from some searching online 'gt1544v 9663199280' relates to DV6TED4 engine which is 1.6D 110bhp, so it should match but i'm having trouble finding the what type of engine and turbo my car has online.

Am i right or wrong?

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Get someone with CAN bus to scan any fault codes on the car- most independent garages will do this for not much money. If you've got an injector problem it will show up on the scan - it could be causing fuel to contaminate the sump oil with crud which could have lead to turbo bearing failure. Jack the car up quite a lot and remove the sump. You dont have to drop the exhaust front section to do this like everyone says!!. Just remove all the bolts and two nuts then lever the sump edges with large screwdrivers to 'break' the 'seal' between the sump and the engine - this seal is made with silicon RTV sealant rather than a gasket. With the sump off you can get at the 'three-legged' black plastic oil strainer - Remove the three Torx headed screws holding the oil strainer to the bottom of the engine and take a look at the oil strainers bussiness end - looks like a tea strainer!. If there are a load of carbon granules in there you could be looking at why your cars turbo charger has been starved of oil-this crud would have worked its way into the oil ways to the turbo. By removing the sump you may have twisted it a bit but if you are handy with a hammer and a block of wood you could get it straight enough to seal properly again or simply fit a new sump. It's quite likely that your engine has already created so much 'gunk' that whatever you do to sort it will be short lived. Keep us posted on developments.

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Thanks for the info guys, had a look and got some stuff done.

Have replaced the turbo and was going to blank the erg plate but have read that the elm comes on. Anyone longterm problems with this?

Car picks up and i'm happy with the pickup but haven't resolved the black smoke. While that has decreased it hasn't disappeared.

Then injured myself playing football so left it at the garage...

And finally found out that the turbo pipe from the intercooler to the turbo has split.... yay

I need to find a replacement pipe, and i have been told that it is a ford part only, but i have seen it mentioned that silicon is a viable replacement option.

Can anyone advise on which route i should go? And maybe what the part number is?

Thanks of all the help

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